I recently built a stroker motor for my A Sedan and when it was going back together, i decided to build a set of lake headers........ Since ive gotten it back on the road ive noticed a drastic increase in the temperature in the Cockpit......... I have no insulation now, nor upholstery or carpet.. Just a pair of seats............ Now it is time to go the next step and put in some insulation What have you guys used and had really good luck with
Lobucrod's insulation works great. He's a HAMBer too. I noticed a dramatic reduction in heat in the cab after adhering it to the roof. I also lined the entire floor, firewall, and back wall and noticed a great reduction in engine noise as well. It seriously helped tone down the engine hum especially on the highway. I bought two 4x10 rolls and have almost a whole roll leftover. And that includes doubling it up on the firewall. It contours to floors great and is fairly durable. I wouldn't put it down and plan to be walking all over it though. Use a carpet or mat over it because the aluminum foil can tear. www.lobucrod.com I can add some pictures later if you are interested. I think this is exactly what you need. Its very thin and light - perfect for your car.
There are so many products out there worthy of consideration and folks who swear by them, but every time I get to that point in a project I chicken out trying something new and go with a product that has worked so well for me........ Dynamat Extreme. Shoebox
After finishing my garage I had a roll and a half of reflectix insulation left over. It was designed for use in metal buildings and open barns where studs may not be uniform. Since i had it lying there, i used it! Seems to be just fine.
We use a ceramic micro sphere paint additive that we add to lizard skin and then some of the lobuckrod type stuff.
my friend works in HVAC me has several different materials we have tried and they all worked pretty well and there all cheap
I am using Lobucrod's stuff and it is better than anything else I have used for heat and noise. You can find him at the address below and he is a HAMBER at local Texas swap meets. Good stuff and priced right! lobucrod.com
I use 3/8 Q-pads on the entire floor,quarters,and cowl and then put the foil covered bubble wrap over it. You can pick it up at Home Depot. Q pads at Carquest. This really reduces heat and noise.
Had a list of topics to find in the Search tonight, this was one. I remebered the thread. Any input from Lobucrod his self? I think I am sold!
I posted some testing I did with Lizard Skin, Bquiet, just backed foil, and some aircraft insulation I had used in the past, and Lobucsrods foil product. Lobucrod's stuff came out looking real good. The next car I do will be Lizard skin and Lobuc's product.
Haven't introduced myself as I'm finishing up on our truck-7 and 1/2 years in the build-new engine just gone in and shaking it down. I've spent more time on researching insulation over the last several years than any other part of the build. I found more opinions than facts and only a couple of actual write-ups with db levels and dollars. I stripped out the cab on our 54 Chevy pickup and cleaned all the surfaces with soap and water-TSP solution and then Simple Green. Used a scuff pad on all the surfaces and vacuumed again. Chevys of the 40s supplied HEATSHIELD and DEADENER by Cascade Audio in Bend, OR-you can read the specs from their catalog/website. Sprayable but I simply painted it on-multiple layers with a brush-easy to work with and wter cleanup. Each tub is a gallon and I put it all on including under the gas tank while it was out for cleaning and refurbishing. Then I put down two layers of the BE-Quiet butyl-style stick-on material throughout the cab and the doors-fairly pricey out of Canada but not as much as Dynamat. I was sort of satisifed with the results but discovered the Lowe's mobile home product which appears to be the same material for $15.95 a roll. Three layers of that throughout the cab and one layer in the doors/ceiling. By this time the gas tank was back in so it only has two layers under it-rated at R-3 per per layer. Big difference-I took the engine out this summer and put a half gallon of the HEATSHIELD (R-24 rated) on the engine compartment firewall and covered it with several layers of black wrinkle finish paint. I had ordered a piece of the jute backed foiled material and tried a piece in the cab before pulling the engine. It didn't seem to make much difference. I went back to Cascade Audio and talked with Paul in the Tech department. I described what I had done so far and he suggested their THERMAL INSULATOR VBLOK-INS12. It is 3/4" thick natural cotton (jute-like) with both surfaces foiled. It is described as a thermo-acoustic blanket-4' X 6' rated at R-6. I put it in yesterday and ran it up the firewall in the cab to the cowl edge and to the edge of the seat frame (I have a Unison seat from the COE trucks with a tall lip welded to the floor) I cut a piece to put under the seats (30/70 style seating) and took it out for a drive. Significantly quieter-I could just hear the electric fuel pump on the frame under the gas tank which is still a little noticeable even with the rubber isolators on the frame. The exhaust harmonic which boomed a lttle around 30 mph was gone-the dual exhaust runs in the middle of each floorboard on the sides of the trans hump and the H-pipe is near the end of the trans tailshaft so plenty of exposure/proximity to the cab. I'm very pleased. I've ordered another piece and will put it in the roof and around behind the seat and in the doors. I bought the Be-Quiet direct off eBay around $110 a roll and used two of them. I put in 4 rolls of the Lowe's product at $15.95 a roll. The p[aint on materials were $100 a gallon for the HEATSHIELD and $84 for the gallon of DEADENER. The THERMAL INSULATOR VBLOK-INS12 is $60 a sheet. The ordered materials were inexpensive to ship from OR to Boise, ID. I'm not mechanically skilled and admire the information I've seen here over the years I've lurked on the site. This issue is something I learned about over a long period of time after wading through a lot of opinions all over the internet and web site. Totally subjective without measuring db through the stages of the installations so it is one guy's opinion but I'm very picky about sound levels and heat transfer as I plan to spend a lot of time in the truck. I've recently retired and looking forward to a lot of comfortable driving. Thanks to JAWS over the last three years for all his help-I'm driving it to the salt next year-I went down this year...you've got to go...words don't describe the experience. Friendly people-total access-everywhere...do it! Frank in Boise
Tman, sorry for the late reply. I just did a search for comments on our product and ran across this thread and your post. All of our testing has been done by our customers over the last 10 years we have been selling it. In all that time I only remember getting one call from a guy that was dissapointed. He had just opened up the package and called all irate to tell me all it was just foil covered bubble wrap. I told him to take a closer look. Bubble wrap is that packing material stuff that your wife likes to pop and annoy the crap out of you. Ours is a closed cell microfoam instead. I asked him to give it a try and if he was not satisfied then I would give him a refund. Never heard from him again. Sometimes no news IS good news. I also wanted to thank all of the HAMBers that have bought from us and have sent others our way. Check out this testing an Austrailian customer did on our product. Not a hamb friendly car at all but got some good results: http://www.shanescitshed.com/cx2500/air-con/citroen_cx_insulation.html
I just bought 120sq.ft. of Second Skin Audio's Damplifier Lite. I watched Mr. Ford install it on his Model A coupe and really liked how solid it made his car feel. I also like that it doesn't have a brand name plastered all over its surface. I'm sure it blocks out heat too... but he installed it during the build so there was no basis available to compare it to. 3blap
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