i would box it since the crossmembers have been welded in. the flex in an unboxed frame is going to make the welds at the cross members a weak spot and may crack
Slag, I think You have Addressed my concern/question. I could see leaving it unwelded (left riveted) not boxed for flex... but crossmembers welded and unboxed (more rigid) my crack due to horizontal flex.. lag Kustom;4173992]i would box it since the crossmembers have been welded in. the flex in an unboxed frame is going to make the welds at the cross members a weak spot and may crack[/QUOTE]
Cool, thanks guys, the steel distributor here should go to jail for extortion... I'm takin' the wishy-washy coward's way in frame boxing; boxing from the firewall back. I'm gonna need a custom trans crossmember, 60's-70's Toploader.
A couple more thoughts. I know you're building a coupe, but the roadster gang needs to think carefully about boxing. You may run into the dreaded "roadster pinch" where the flexy frame twists the body, door and quarter panel move and the gap between pinches your arm cuz that's about where it sits most times. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ That said, boxing plates are easy to make. Get some 6" wide .120 thick hot rolled, (6" for 32, 4" probably works for A's.) clamp it to the frame, mark it with a scriber on bottom edge only, Saw it to shape with little bandsaw in vertical mode, Set it just inside the frame, Space the boxing plate up with a couple of .120 thick spacers, mark the top side, cut it to size on the little bandsaw, hit it with a grinder for a perfect fit, install. The .120 spacers equal the thickness of the frame rails so the scribed line is an almost perfect fit - and many times is - to your frame. No problems with butt welding 3-4 pieces to make one long piece. Did that with my swoopy 32 frame and it was a lot easier than dealing with a 10' or so hunk of flat steel. A boxed frame as is obvious adds a lot of strength to the frame and you'll get away from flex etc. Flex is not necessary on todays roads and not wanted when entering steep driveways at an angle. And about that "flatheads forever" comment . . . people have been known to change their minds.
C9 Thanks for your input on boxing plates.. I never knew this "Pinch" you speak of. I am boxing it already....Started Last night. It wont hurt anything, only strengTHen... I want A safe, Well Built, Fun car. With a Flathead!
Ok,what about welding in the crossmembers and leaving the rivets in? The F-1 crossmember mentioned earlier,does it work with a t-5 with out a lot of re-engineering? Anyone done it? Got pics? thanks
Frame is boxed! Inset and looks bitchen... This a frame is ready for another 80 years my way ........... Bitchen help on here
hey Banjoboy....good question and interesting responses, i've been pondering this very issue for my own coupe ...... it sounds like we're on similar paths...... mine is a 29 coupe/8ba flathead/40 ford rear end/tardel k member. you sure aren't hanging around...you've got that sucker boxed in the time its taken me to write this! good luck with your project!
JICK, I already had the plates in the shop but was not sure if I was going to use them.. i'll try to get some pics up here soon. (bought them from wethebmx HAMBer about a year or so ago.... just wanted to research and see if they were really needed or not.. Im using my shop hoist to clamp everything down and weld everything in.... kinda cool having the ability to lift / lower on a four post alignment lift. Your build sounds identical to mine.....hows it coming? BBOY Im all revved up now ... Glad I boxed it ... looks like almost any Hot Rod Engine would hold up in the frame. I love progress..... BBOY
Box it this way, it leads itself it look much more professional and gives more surface to get a good strong weld on, Another thing you may want to ponder if boxing is welding in locking nuts on the inside of the box to secure your body mounting bolts...if I get around to it I'll post pictures. I've got a '31 A, on stock rails with a cut down 32 K. Boxed. It takes a little longer to do, but it takes alot of flex out of the frame. Build it right and do it once...
no progress at he moment to be honest....i'm just collecting the parts together at the moment and aim to really get into it next summer, i'm just finishing off a 10 year build of (i'll say it quietly) my '59 VW gasser drag race car then i'll really get on the coupe. my cars are garaged 130 miles from my house so progress is kinda slow!
Greetings! To my eye the model "A" frame is just too spindly when used under a model "A" and a '32 frame is too expensive. A cheap alternative is to use the frame rails from a "TT" or model "A" heavy truck. They are made from thicker gage metal (stronger) and are two inches deeper than a car frame so they look better. Use the stock car front crossmember, an F-1 transmission crossmember,(yes, I know they repop the '32 crossmember but not the pedals, the price on a set of pedals has gone through the roof), then "Z" the back to suit. Us the model "A" car rear crossmember and "X" brace or box the frame. A totally traditional but inexpensive build, Good Luck, Mike.
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