I am debating whether to paint my 1937 truck with single stage or base/clear. I want it to look nice and was wondering how shiny single stage is compared to base/clear.Which should I go with? I want to save money bu not sacrifice quality.
depends on the color and type of paint.... for solid colors , especially black single stage can work very well. good single cost more than 2 stage, but you dont need clear. i find the single stage tends to stick better as well. on the other hand a good 2 stage job looks good as well, but is more work, and more material to buy. if you are going with a metalic or pearl naturally you need 2 stage to make it right. with a good rub out both will look about the same i like rm uno for single stage, and use ppg and dupont for 2 stage , many of the 2 stage systems are very good. skull
The colors used will be black fo the fenders and either dark green or Burgundy for the rest of the truck. There will not be any metallic in it. One guy was trying to sell me LIMCO Urethane enamel.... I do't know if it's quality or not.
with those colors you described, PLEASE go with single stage. Single stage just has the "look" for vintage cars in my opinion.
i would tend to agree with that logic, and also the single stage tends to take to brush touches better, such as hoods chipping cowls and grill shells, etc. skull
My coupe is single stage and I like it alot. To me, it looks more like lacquer than BC/CC. Plus it is very easy to touch up.
What single stage brands are good to use? Can I clear over urethane single stage it if I don't like it?
Solid colors and single stage are traditional and just look "right" on a 30's car, plus your material cost is cheaper and less time is involved. All major brands are good.
you can clear if you wanted to, but alot of time and money gets used up, id forgo the clear on a single job. if you are in a voc regulated area rm uno is the best, maybe even if your not. i used to love the concept by ppg, but they dont seem quite as good after the voc changes. i'd consult with your painter, unless you are on your own. skull
SORRY not to take over your thread , but can any one recomend a good quality and user friendly paint for BASE COAT ONLY thanks. ( I'm in the same boat as deerejohnb)
LIMCO is the BASF "value" or "fleet refinishing" line. I'm not a professional painter, but have shot a variety of paint brands. Just finished doing my '23 roadster in LIMCO and it worked well for me. Bob
Just got my 40 back from the paint shop a couple weeks ago. It's done in single stage and looks great. Painting is only half the job though, a great paint job comes from a good finisher. Someone who takes alot of time final sanding and polishing. Gary
Hot-rod roadster, Your car looks great and very shiny. Do you know hat product line was used? My painter and I have already discussed that it may need to be sanded and buffed after painting.
Here's TomH's and my thread in the tech archive on a nice low buck single stage urethane. The car has been on the road for 5 years (in HOP-UP, too) and still looks great. It should answer some questions and keep me from one-finger typing for an hour. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14597&showall=1
My favorite SS that I've used so far was PPG Global. This stuff shined and was as deep as the ocean. Very, very, very happy with it. I used it in a British racing green type color. One thing alot of guys, including myself, will do is mix RTS clear in with the last coat or 2 of the SS. It adds to the depth by making the color more translucent, almost like candy.
if you are gonna use solvent base, i like ppg's dbc line, and duponts chroma base. the ppg is probably the easiest to use for a guy who doenst paint all the time. if ya are gonna use water, i like the ppg ennviorbase. the clear is really more important on a 2 stage job, imo. dont make the mistake of going with something that dries to fast thinking it will be better for a one time use. the slower drying clears and hardners will give ya less of a fish eye problem and die back after the rub out skull
My painter asked me if I wanted the painted fenders to be wet sanded and buffed. Is it normal to have to wet sand and buff after painting BC/CC if you want to eliminate orange peel or other defects? Is there such a thing as a perfect paint job with no orange peel, fish eyes, etc.?
It is only nessesary to sand and buff after paint if you want a really nice finish. A good painter can lay down the color smoothly with a minimum of orange peel, but usually the vertical surfaces are going to have a little orange peel at best. Sanding and buffing can move a nice paint job to an outstanding paint job. Generally, there is no thing as a perfect paint job, sand and buff can bring you real close, though.
yes, its normal to buff a 2 stage job. its rare to not get some dust in the clear. also when properly applied there will be some peel texture to the clear. every once in a blue moon they come out so that rub outs are not neccesary, but for that custom finish be preppared to color sand and buff. exceptions are motorcycle tansk, helmets and small parts, which are pretty easy to snot down without causing problems. not that you cant get a decent look on a car without buffing, many do, its just not as good looking iimo by the way some fish eyes are tough, if not impossible to buff out. thats a whole other story skull
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