I'm working on a glass 34 roadster and have mounted the master and booster under the car. I'm not a big fan of the inline pressure switches, but this thing does have power brakes which may help?. Anyways, the master cylinder has provisions on both sides to hook lines up. I plugged the one side and used the other for my lines. Would I be able to put the pressure switch in one of those ports that are plugged off, would that work? I don't really want to redo the lines under there if I can help it. Just wondered if any of you guys ever did the switch that way. thanks
Just use the lever-arm actuated switch as old Chevys used or mount a weatherproof modern button style switch. Nothing wrong with pressure activated swictches but you didn't think of it when you built the brake system. Street Beast?
If you've got room, it will work. Remember, however, that the pressure switch is probably, 1/8 NPT and the master cylinder port is probably inverted flare, so you'll need an adapter. Bob
I bought a pressure switch from ron francis wiring speciaty dealer that was rated to be very sensitive to line pressure , was sw32 cost $26 . did not take near as much pressure as a stock switch to close the contact , you mich do a little research and find out who else sells that low pressure switch, gets rid of the hassle of adjusting the mechanical lever,,,,
I used one of these, can't beat the price, I bought 2 just in case, been on 6 or 7 years now, no problems at all. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Mechanical-Brake-Light-Switch,1972.html
i had a lot of trouble with the lever style too. kept having to adjust it. added a regular two wire inline (just looked through a book at napa, don't have part number any more), bled the brakes and never had to worry about it again. my 62 f100 has the pressure switch on the master cylinder and it works fine. no lever switches for me.
I use these ... Go here http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/brake_switches.html Ben on the roadster for 20 years and I just got another one for my 3W coupe build.
Did you notice this is the same as in the post number 5 above, except with a much higher price? These Delco switches come left and right and are available at most auto parts stores. Cushman motorscooters use them too
Yeah, I did the whole brake system and wiring from scratch, no kits..dummy me, I was installing the steering column and got to brake switch..set there and thought, oh....good, nice job butthead!..forgot all about a switch,,duh. I use the lever switch on my other car and like them, but no good place to put it on here. I actually changed to the lever style on that one because it had 4wdb and stopped too good with light pressure..not enough to actuate the switch well. I think I did change that to the lower pressure one too, but it didn't help any. I guess all I can do is try it and see..this is drum/disc and power so maybe it will suffice. No sorry..no street beast for me, this is an outlaw body I bought years ago..highboy roadster..blown 351C w/SVO aluminum high port heads, pushing 700hp...think it will go? It will be for sale when I am done, if I ever get done as it has taken me a long time so far. thanks for the inputs..
I have the button switch on my 62 C10, mounted right above the brake lever. Works great and easy to adjust.
If you mount the pressure switch off the unused side of your Master Cylinder, You must have some means to bleed out any air..
Yes, and they are NOT the same. They have a second more adjustable arm so they can be adjusted better and also can be used right or left. I have also had better service out of them ... over the ones from NAPA and the other parts houses.
thanks deuce roadster! I just installed a new pedal assy and I thought I'd be stuck putting in a pressure switch...I'd much rather pay $22 for a lever than mess wwith that, I've got enough problems with my brake plumbing...yeah its 3 times as much...but for an extra $14 I buy myself the hour or two of fiddling with the napa switch it'd take for me to make it work like the streetworks one...I've had too much fun puttting in these brakes to fool with modifying a brake switch...anyway I'm placing my or der right now Sean edit: the watsons streetwworks switch is american made. nuff said.
Here's one way. Note the adjustable upper travel stop for the brake pedal. GM underdash lever switch with the lever cut short. 1/4-20 tapped hole in the brake arm to mount the stainless actuating bolt. Fiberglass encapsulated plywood floorboards fwiw. They were cut and an aluminum cover placed over them due to the pedal bracket is mounted too high. (I followed instructions - I'm good at that - and put it where recommended. Far better to tack it in place and decide for yourself.) Since the switch used isn't weatherproof I worried about it for a while, but 15 years down the road including heavy rains, flooded streets almost hub deep I've never found evidence of water hitting the switch.
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