Projects Ford Truck Build ++PICS++

Thanks Jay, appreciate it!!

Dave, VA HAMB would be cool, if you'd come over to check out my truck.
Sounds like a lot of fun!!

Here are some pictures of todays work:
Just installed the tie rod ;-)



But I like how the hairpin - tie rod clearance turned out:


Here some more, I know everone of you guys has seen that though...




There is one more thing:
I am using those speedway 37 to 48 spindles and the grease fittings won't clear my lower steering arms.
So if I want to grease my bushings, I'd have to remove the lower steering arms, WTF???

Anyone of you also had this problem??

 

Martin, get you some of the 45 or 90 degree fittings to put in there.

 

Great looking ride your building I think the orange and black theme is gonna look great.

 

Hey.loving the build so far. Keep the pics coming,and keep up the good work!

 

Alright, I keep the pics coming ;-)

Tried to determine the grill height yesterday:






Not sure yet, which will be the right one. But it looks to me, like I have to raise the radiator too...





Thanks Dave for telling me about this bristle discs, they do an awesome job!!!




But a lot more to do though...

In the evening I watched the Dillinger movie. Pretty cool, a lot of old cars ;-)

 

Looks like you're making strong progress. Keep it up and you'll be driving her in no time!

 

It all looks great Martin.... but someone is very lazy and drinks way too much Bud Light..... They got the Pampers to put on so less trips to the pisspot....

Just an observation....

 

HAHAHAHAHA...
Thats just the preperation for today's 4th of July party...
Guess they'll need it all tonight ;-)

Yes Dave, the gap between grille and cowl is bigger than stock. A couple of inches... Thats because the Olds is so big . So I'll make my hood longer too.

When I am talking about raising the radiator, it's about the support rods, I think they would hit the air cleaner when set up like it is now. But I'll check that again.

I'd like to mount the grill temporarily, but I can't get it to the right position unchopped. So I'll have to wait, until the car is on it's front tires again, to determine the amount of chop.
Hope I get this done within the next week.

 

Great job!

 

Thanks to Dave, I already know, that I missed some Brake parts (Pins, springs... that hold the shoes). Which I have fixed by now.

Now today a guy at work asked me about the adjusting screw in the bottom of the brakes, and how to handle that. Because he thinks there is the spoon missing that keeps the screw from turning free.

But with the kit I bought, there was no spoons...

Is this maybe just on newer brakes??
Is there still something else missing on my brakes???


Thanks!!

 

3 1/4 rear 3 1/2 front

 

Looks like you are missing the automatic brake adjuster. Your spring should not be crossing and touching the adjuster. There should be cast piece that goes in the big hole just above the adjuster on the left shoe that the spring from the right shoe hooks to.

If they are not self adjusters, then you will need a different spring, unless the spring clears the adjuster when the shoes are back against the backing plate. Also, if they are not self adjusters, then I believe that the spoon that keeps the adjuster from backing out attaches to the backing plate.

I don't have a picture, but they are all basically the same. see this link for a basic diagram:

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/drum-brake2.htm

 

quick question,where did ya get that kool shift knob??? your project is bitchin...
Mench

 

The brakes on my wifes Falcon are not self adjusting. The spring is tight against the star wheel as seen here. Note how large the teeth are. This looks correct, for manual adjust brakes, to me.

Neat truck. I think Russ is right on with the proportions caution.

 

Scotty's right, those teeth look too big for self adjusters, my bad.

I have not worked on "late model" manual adjust brakes in a long time. I recall a spoon shaped piece being attached to the backing plate, but it would make sense, that the spring could double as the retainer for adjusting nut, in which case, you're not missing anything. Put the retainer pins in and see how it works.

Nice build, BTW.

 

Well, I just picked up those spoons at lunchtime, but didn't have time to install them.
The brakes should be self adjusting, the backing plates are 53 to 56 ford.
And the hubs that I am using are 48 to 52, but that should not matter on the self adjusting issue.

I am not sure if big teeth on the adjuster mean non self adjusting and small teeth mean self adjusting. Maybe someone could school us on this one.

Maybe I just got the wrong adjuster...

Oh and Mench, you can buy those cool shifter knobs from McKustoms here on the HAMB!!
Just do a search for him, there should also be one in the Classifieds.

 

If they are that early, I'm pretty sure that they are not self adjusting. And in that era, the spring did ride on the adjusting nut as you have it in the pic.

 

I see tape on the a pillar on the right side are you getting ready to chop the top?

 

Yeah the self adjusters didn't come out until the early to mid 60's. You have it set-up right for the parts that you are using.

 

That's a good point, right there!!!

 

A self energizing brake uses the rotational force that is being applied from the brake drum to the shoes to help to pull the shoes tighter against the drum, reducing the pedal pressure that is needed.

Self adjusting brakes have a lever that turns the adjuster nut to keep the shoes out against the drums. The lever is either activated when the brakes are applied in reverse, or on later models, some are activated when the emergency brake is used. Without self adjusting brakes, you have to periodically adjust the brakes out toward the drums as the shoes wear.

You have self energizing brakes, but not self adjusting.

 

Well stated.

 

Thanks cvstl for teaching us!!

When you say I don't have selfadjusting brakes, does that mean, the spring is supposed to touch the adjusting screw, and I don't need a spoon like this:


According to this theory, it would make sense, that I have these adjusting slots in the backing plates??
Because I figured, when both backing plates have this slots on the same side off center (they do), then it would not be possible to use these spoons. They need the kurl of the adjusting screw facing towards the front of the car.
So with two backing plates having the slots on the same side, I'd have one knurl face towards the front and one to the back.

I hope you see, what I try to say...

 

I would take 3 out of the b posts and 4 out of the A posts. It will give that top a much better stance. Very cool, keep posting.

 

Fuxl - Thanks, but don't be looking for me to tell you anything else that sounds smart or like I know what I'm talking about... I know a little about a lot, but not a lot about anything.

Anyway, you are correct. The spring is to touch the adjusting screw. it will be the spring that keeps the adjusting screw from backing out. You use a brake adjusting tool (or bent screw driver) to stick in the slot and turn the adjusting screw to adjust the brake shoes out to the drums.

Based on your picture, all you need to do is put the pins through the backing plate and and fasten the shoes to the backing plate with the spring and keepers (upper right corner of the pic in your last post) and your set to install the drums and adjust the shoes.

Here is a tip: Adjust the shoes out so that the drums just slide on. Its no fun trying to adjust the shoes very far using the slot.

Now you can take the self adjuster spoons back and spend the $$ on something that you really need.

Keep us updated, I'm lovin' it so far.

 

You are very welcome Dave, I think we all learned from that!!

@ anybody who likes to talk me into chopping my top:
I already did it 4" on all 4 pillars
Just jump back a couple of pages, you'll find some pics!

cvstl, isn't better knowing a little about a lot, than knowing anything at all

I am still in the learning process (and will be forever, I think), so every input is highly appreciated.

I'll take the spoons back tomorrow, and get me something else for it. Let me think about what I need most... hmmm... there is so much on my list

Trying to get some pics up tomorrow about my steering progress...
So check back

 

Like I said, really not that smart, but here goes....

The self energizing brakes, like Martin's, have the retainer pins and keeper springs, and the shoes are held together with springs. This, as you know, allows the whole setup to slide around on the backing plate. When the brakes are applied, the top of the shoes are pushed apart by the wheel cylinder and the leading shoe is pulled down by the drum. Because it is floating on the backing plate, it rotates slightly with the drum, applying force to the rear shoe thru the adjuster. This evens out the force top and bottom on the drum, using the friction from rotation of the drum to reduce the required pedal force.

On the older brakes, the bottom of the shoes are fixed to the backing plate with pins, making the only available force for braking what comes from your foot on the pedal being transferred thru the wheel cylinder.

BTW, I'm no brake expert, I just did a little research prior to putting new brakes on my '37. I don't recall where I read the explanation, but as soon as I did it made sense.

Thanks. Clay

 

Yeah, I did too!!!
Now I know, why it is important to mount the two shoes the right way!!

Thanks, Clay

 

Looking good Martin your doing a great job.

 

Do you know about primary/secondary shoes?
Primary-Short lining=To the front
Secondary-Long lining=To the rear