how about some input

So i am about 2-3 weeks from picking up my 31 coupe and i was hoping to get a little advise on what engine to put in it.. I was hoping to go with the 392 but the other day some one mention how ever heavy it was so my other choice would be a nail. I was hoping to get so input on both pros and cons for each. Well thanks guys.

 

I have three nails and I love them. Flat torque curve... the baby 264 in my 33 Chevy will pull 5th gear at 35 mph...the open headers sound sweet doing that.

 

A Hemi will make up enough power to overcome it's weight in a Model A.....

 

Any of the small blocks will make for a good handling car.

The Hemi's do ok, pretty heavy, but you can steer em with the throttle.


Take a look at the late model 455 Buicks.

Lots of torque, exchange the heavy cast iron intake with an aluminum one and you'll have an engine that weighs only 15# more than the popular SBC.

 

is it also true that i will need to modify my firewall if i go with a big block

 

The weight difference between a Nailhead and a Hemi is surprisingly small. There is an engine weight thread on here somewhere, I think it was under 100 pounds? Either would be good, the Nailer would be cheaper.
You could built a very tough Nail for the price of a stock rebuilt 392 Hemi.
Doc.

PS, I went with Nailhead.

 

Probably.

My 32 has a flat firewall and only required a 1" indent in the right side for the K-B aluminum rocker covers.


The 31 roadster project has a 4" recessed firewall.
The stock engine fits ok, pretty close, but the motor mounts don't allow it to rock around.

I have some TA aluminum rocker covers for it and the recess will require some widening so they can fit.

Lot's of ways to recess an A firewall, most of them work oriented, but technically, not difficult.

Both cars run mechanical fans.
The 32 has a 17", the 31 did have a 15", but now sports a 17".
All stainless fat 6 blade fans.

 

Lot's of ways to recess an A firewall, most of them work oriented, but technically, not difficult.

I agree - whichever V8 you use, the car will be nose-heavy, with less traction, more steering effort, and more weight on the front tires than ideal.
Get the engine as far back as you can, remember to leave a little room to pull the distributor up for removal, valve covers clear the wiper motor, where does the exhaust dump vs. the steering box, pan sump vs. cross-member, etc.
Everything else moves back, too: transmission, cross-member, cooler lines, shift linkage, shorter driveshaft (means new pinion angle adjustment?) and header pipes.
Remember to closely inspect under the dash for clearance to wiper linkage, cowl vent and drain, glovebox, radio, heater vents etc. Cars with mechanical (rod or cable) for vents and heater controls can use more modern vacuum-operated diaphragms which allow the part to be hidden (no direct line of sight between the control and the device) and still work - those little hoses can go anywhere.
Sometimes, a convenient contoured "box" with curved corners can be borrowed from a heavy gauge sheet metal appliance or tool, sink, cabinet etc. so you don't have to make a dent yourself. Just cut the area out, and insert it. More interesting shape? Use a big one, with a small one (just for the dizzy, etc.) in it. Measure twice, cut once.
Not advice - just passing along a comment?
Someone who did this (although it came out well) said afterward he should have made the box in 2 pieces split vertically and flanged it together, and used Riv-Nuts, Dzus etc. to attach it to the firewall (obviously, not if you need it for rigidity) so he could remove and re-contour it without removing the engine. In his case, he wanted to move the engine away from the steering to change his exhaust system, and the permanent box limited him.

 

Important: while this stuff is apart, use lots of insulation on the back (inner) side of the firewall!
Any welded joint should be caulked (after paint) to prevent any air leaks. Any flanged and bolted joint can be sealed with a thin rubber strip. Any air that passes through the firewall will be hot and stinky!

Heat from the firewall makes many of these cars very uncomfortable, and this is the easiest time to do it. I also give up a bit of leg room by putting a thick pad on the floor (under the carpet) all the way up to the firewall section, and back to the front of the seat - helps that "hot foot" condition.

 

thanks for the input that was way more then i was ever expecting what do you think about the old hemi or nail?

 

Do you have an engine yet ?
If not , have you considered a good Ford sb or how about a Mopar 318 ? Something different and the weight is a lot lighter . Smaller engines are easier to make fit than a big block . Would be easier to handle down the road too .
If you really want something different and look really kool , why not go with a good in line 6 cyl ? You can get the multi-carb set-up , dual headers and beef up with a nice cam . They look really nice , light weight and still very kool looking !
There are a ton of choices but think it out well before you go and spend your hard earned cash . The Hemi's , Nailheads are really sweet , but heavy and parts cost more . Just something to think about . When you start looking at the cost of parts and machinist costs , the smaller V8's & 6 cyl are easy to find in good running condition and the performance parts are cheaper too .
What ever you do go with , just be happy with it and don't go over board with the bigger , more costly engines . You can use that money for other things to get your hot rod up and running !

Have fun and let us know what you are going to go with !
Just my 2 cents worth !

 

The problem with 318's, Olds/Buick 455's, BB Mopars, BB Fords, etc, while all fine engines and cheaper than the "traditional" engines, is that they are just plain UGLY in a Model A.......

 

That's why they make hoods....

 

The question I would ask, is how deep are your pockets? Early Hemi's usually require REALLY deep ones. Nailhead, early Caddy, Rocket 88, almost the same. I agree with the ugly factor mentioned above, plus some are very long and create build issues that can turn a fun experience into a nightmare. Adding a hood might help the ugly, but doesn't help when the water pump & fan wind up being in the space normally used by the radiator.

 

doesn't it just matter what you want-it is your car - everyone will have their own likes/dislikes -dreams-but the reality it is your desire/taste I think any engine can be made to look fairly good with attention to detail-give yourself some credit and surprise everyone when you debut your running ride - good luck with it !!

 

So what engines would you "beautiful engine" fella's consider beautiful?

 

its your car so do what you want

 

I vote for the hemi nothing screams hot rod like a hemi

 

Check out this post............... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=330306&highlight=nailhead+picture+post

 

I'm kind of partial to the 454 Chevy.......