I just got done putting a ford toploader togather. I installed the new Hurst competition plus shifter with proper install kit. The rod attatchment points use a mostly rounded spring clip. Kinda like a fancy hairpin. I believe most four speeds used this type of clip. PROBLEM is: I was rowing through the gears on the bench and a clip flew off. Now when I installed them I made sure I twisted them slightly further into position after I pushed them through the hole. SO: What would give me better piece of mind instead of these clips? I did this for a friend and I do not want a call of being stranded.
After having two come off while driving and trying to make roadside repairs I used small cotter pins. It was the only thing I had in the glove box at the time.
Not sure what you mean when you say you twisted them further into position. Sounds like you put them on like you thread keys through a key ring which is no correct. the straight leg on the clip goes straight through the hole and the rest of it springs around the rod. I think there's a pretty good diagram in the directions. If you twisted it like you say it may need to be replaced.
That was the thought I was having. What about the slop from the lack of spring tension? Maybe small washers behind the clip to take up the slop?
what he said.....I've had mine on there for about two yrs now....no problem....see now I just jeenkzd(spelling?) myself
installed correctly they should have plenty of spring tension (rod tight to the plate)unless they are mishapen. I would use the hurst clips over cotter pins because of the fact that they keep the rods from rattling.
It's been awhile but isn't there also a spring steel beveled or wavy washer that goes on with these clips as well?
Yep... The rods shouldn't be too loose, they can bind up and get sorta stuck. Not much fun trying to un-bind them on the side of the road while deperately trying not to burn yourself in the exhaust. If they're popping the clips off, it sounds like there is too much clearance.
How would you install both? I am installing the bushing onto the rod flange part towards rod then passing it in to the shift arm. There were no washers(wavy,belville,flat or otherwise) with the kit.So I am putting the clip on the rod after it passes through. It feels to be a snug fit when done.I question if the clip is rotating slightly as the lever moves and then dislodges itself. Maybe I can find some wavy washers to use with the cotter pin idea.
If I remember, the wavy washer was important. It keeps tension on the spring clip so things don't wobble around in there.
Make sure that the rods are running perfectly straight with the linkages as I ve had the clips fly off before but come to find out I had to tweek the linkages a bit !! >>>>.
I will have to check that........Of course this is a new install kit for this application. And as we all know we can not trust anything we buy anymore! I have tried contacting hurst tech dept. They put your call in queue and then finaly have you leave a message for a tech to return your call. We are going on 2 1/2 hours with no return call. What a cut back world we live in!
Sorry, I should have said Hurst clips "INSTEAD OF", not "over" cotter pins, that was confusing. One thing to watch out for is that the curly Q end on the clip isn't dropping down into a spare hole in the shift arm or off the side. If it gets caught up on something they can fling off. the washers would help that. My kit is from the 70's and didn't mention those, they may have changed it.
Funny I had to show an automatic guy this a few weeks ago... I have and have had more than one of the same trans and shifter set without a problem. However everything seems to be less than it once was... These do not have or use any shims in the current toploader kit, only the Nylon insets for the shift arms. If there is slop, the clips are backward, damaged or possibly bad to start with but I've never had that problem....If you buy the pit pack upgrade with aluminum or steel inserts then you get shims to set the rods to your liking. The Nylon inserts are worthless if you like to bang gears but nice on a cruiser. The clips themselves are spring steel and if wrenched on too hard or installed backward often will not hold as they are supposed to. There should be at least two extra in you install kit, if they are sloppy use the spares and toss the bad ones.
Well, I have my (freshly rebuilt Saginaw) 4-speed trans all hooked up, with a n.o.s Hurst shifter, with all new clips & nylon bushings. I've been shifting around & have lost my reverse clip a couple of times. I'm hoping that, once I get my clutch setup plumbed & the flywheel spinning, etc., things will go a bit easier (as far as getting the thing to shift smoothly into gear, which it is NOT, I might add). Maybe I've been banging things around a bit to much. And yes, a set of those metal bushings might be in order. Also, the Hurst customer service gig totally sucks. It's virtually non-existent.
That sucks, I really did not care for them at first but as I said I've never had a problem. All my 4speeds are toploaders, and I've got a brand new kit on the one I have now. The only difference is the newer issues have a billet aluminum mounting plate instead of the cast one they used to have. That and you have to go buy the good bushing kit separately. If you have problems with the shifter itself, check your linkage, it should be unbound in neutral so as the the Nylon pin slips in and out of indexing hole with no drag. Bending the rods slightly may be necessary as the thread count sometimes will not allow the cross pins to exactly match up with the shifter arms on the transmission. Once this is worked out recheck the stops, if the stop is set too close you would have to bang the gears for a positive shift if it goes in at all.
Very true, I replaced the bushings, even though I didn't think it needed it man did it help. I have a love for Toploaders, and I love the one in the Galaxie ('cept she's growlin' at me a little from 1-2. I used synth-blend, guess she didn't like that). And really "making" it fit right also made a huge difference, before it was as basic as it could be, a little bending here and there, along with the bushings, was a night and day difference.
Please read the lines above... I have installed many Hurst shifters and the only times I had problems were when the linkage rods hadn't been manufactured (bent) correctly. I straightend and test fit each one until they shifted through without any undue angles at both shift arms (on the trans and the shifter). Hope this helps.
Bettlejuice, I've heard many say toploaders just don't like synthetic or synthetic blend gear lube. David Kee sites this on his web pages too, but I don't remember any explanation.... What happened with one I had with full synthetic in it was that it worked well overall but the shifts felt "gummy" for lack of a better term. Almost like the syncros were sticking a bit as they lined up. A change to old fashion 90 weight after a light wash of RM 900 through the case and man what a difference.
I guess that's what I'm havin' too, it barks just a little bit but takes a little more umpf than it should (I have had to kinda wind up with it a more than usual to shift lately, come to thing of it). It was actually ordered by the PO from Dave Kee, he gave me any recepits he had and all the manuals, I was impressed! I'm gonna do that here pretty soon, I'm hoping that straightens me up too (I'm always ansy when it comes to transmissions though). But when I do get a solid 1-2 shift, boy, THAT'S fun!
The Jalopy Journal
