T5 clutch problem

I have read most of the post on t5,s. I have a 292 Chevy in line. when I took the engine out of the truck, I took everything. The t5 bolts up fine, then I got the astro disc and pressure plate which bolts up fine. the problem I,m having is I,m running out of spline on the input shaft of the trans. if the spline in the clutch plate was backwards I think it would be OK. I only need 3/8" so the trans will bolt up to the bell housing.
any suggestions .

thanks

 

there was a thread on the same thing yesterday. somewhere on here there is a thread with instructions on prepping a T-5 to hook it to Non T-5 bellhousings and shortening the end of the input shaft a bit is one part of it.

 

If I understand what your saying, the center hub of the friction disk is shorter on one side than the other and would work if put in reverse (which I'm sure you can't do). Is the hub long enough on the proper side that you could grind off the 3/8" your looking for ?? Just a thought !!!

 

Some swaps require that you shorten the input shaft support housing.

 

tis very simple. Compair the lenght of the input shaft and the sleeve the throwout bearing rides on T-5 to old trans. Trim T-5 parts to match ones on orignal trans.

 

I have gone through the same problem. If you measure a Saginaw or Muncie input shaft you'll discover that the T-5 input shaft meeds to be shortened. I think it needs 3/8 or 5/8 of an inch, can't remember. After the "cut" mine went in perfectly and works great. Oh, I have a T-5 on an early 60's truck bell housing and a 350.

 

Maybe try reading all the post...just might find what you need

 

Currently doing the swap now. the input shaft has to be shortened, the bearing retainer has to be shortened and the splines on the input shaft have to be extended. You can have the clutch disc center hub machined down a bit, but you cannot flip it. Check the ultimate T-5 thread for all the correct measurements. Flathead Ernie is right on top of it.

 

I've done this swap too....not only do you need to trim about 3/8ths inch off the end of the pilot, to get the clutch to completely disengage [on my particular application...S-10 T-5 behind a flathead, using early ford clutch linkage] I had to use a die grinder to remove about 3/8ths inch of splines on the back side of the clutch disc...some T-5s may need the front bearing retainer trimmed back a little too...some are pretty long. Just takes a hack-saw or a "zippy wheel" on your die grinder.

 

thanks guys.....the input shaft does not need to be shortened, because when there is no pressure plate or clutch in place everything lines up and bolts up fine, as soon as I put the clutch on it bottoms out on the input shaft and keeps the trans. sticking out about 3/8" I though that there might be a disc. that would save me some machineing. I will have the input splines extended....Thanks

 

Another thing to check is to see how much farther the splines go inside the input shaft housing - you might be able to gain the distance you need. When I did my poncho, I needed to shorten the input housing a bit so I could get enough free movement in the clutch.

 

pull the front bearing retainer off (make sure you put it back the same way make it) put a rag to cover the front bearing and with a small grinder and a cut off blade cut the splines back farther, then cut the front bearing retainer use another trans for measurements, ans make sure you cut the input shaft

 

If I read your problem correctly I had the same problem with my T-5 to Baby Hemi swap. My input splines would only engage about 3/8" into clutch disc. I found a used 14 tooth clutch disc, cut the center out, installed on input teeth and welded it up. Now I have plenty of teeth engagement......................
After re-reading your post, like said above is it your throwout bearing sleeve that needs trimmed?

 

I assume you're using an S10 T5. The input shaft on the S10 T5 is 7" and the "standard" GM input is about 6-5/8". You will have to shorten the input sleeve/bearing retainer and MAY have to lengthen/deepen the splines on the input shaft itself.

 

Thanks Ernie
I went to a clutch rebuilder, and he had an offset spline in a new clutch so I bought it for $50. then I only had to mill 1/8" off the pressure plate side..He also told me that if I need He could make me a custom plate, that would work.

 

That's what I try to do - custom clutch

Soundslike a lot of headache, but it really saves a lot - most clutch rebuilders are quite reasonable...