Head bolts and over heating?

Ok, say if one forgot to re torque his head bolts after break in, would this cause cooling issues? At idle I run at 190*, perfect, and it can stay like that for half an hour and not over heat. but once I get going, it gets 200...210...220, ok shut it off!
I've done everything, flushed it, new t stat, so on. Engine is a flathead 4 cyl Willys Go Devil.
I heard that as the engine would get going exhaust gasses would poke past the gasket and possibly over heat the water. Plausable?

 

Yes it is possiable. Re-torque the head now ,have a radiator shop test for combustion gas in cooling system [Block Chek] . Nothing there check to see if distributor advances are working , rod out radiator. Fan belt slipping??

 

Fan belt was slipping, replaced and tightened, not slipping anymore. Radiator is a recore. I'll take it to a shop for a block check, though it was magnafluxed when rebuilt.

I retorqued the head and I'll give it a shot tomorrow at high noon when it's hottest here.

 

Oh, and, thanks!

 

And like I said make sure the dizzy advances are working. A stuck macanical advance will cause heating and low on power ,also retarded static timing.

 

It's pertronix but I'll check the timing advance too. What do you mean retarded static timing? Now, I did hear that it would be a good idea to retard the timing since I'm higher altitude. True? 5000 ft.

 

Gee, if your timing is retarded that would cause you to run hot under load.

 

Higher altitude you advance timing ,less air needs more timing.

 

Set timing to stock... Gee, more like checked it. And it's still running hot. 220.

 

Er; Another thought is the temp gauge correct, accurate ???

 

Holy shit. I must be dumb, I didn't check that, drrrr!!!! thanks, I'll check it somehow

 

Ok, do old vehicles like to puke over fluid? I've stopped it most of the way with a new radiator cap, but it likes to puke a tiny bit, maybe half cup of fluid. Normal?

 

If you are running an electric gauge, run a jumper wire from the sending unit to the gauge and see if that helps. I thought I had an overheating problem on my T but it turned out to be the wire had shorted and was giving me false readings.................just another idea

 

It's a standard unit, not electric, BUT! I compared it to a meat thermometer and it was off. 10-15 degrees high. So when I was running 200 it was 190, 210 200, so on so on.
It's still running a bit hot for my tastes though..

 

Possable the thermostat is sticking or air trapped in the system? Our truck has been running fine around town. Took it to Kingman a few weeks back and the guage was reading HOT. Went to Kingman again last week, but before I went, I put in a new stat, and before I put it in, drilled two 1/8" holes in it to help purge out trapped air. Changed nothing else, even recycled the fluid. Truck hit the low end of "normal" and sat there the whole time like a fat man at a buffet.

 

As far as puking fluid out, I have found that most of the older radiators do not need to be to the top with liquid. They will kind of "seek" their own level.
Try running it with a little less fluid in it and see if it still pukes.
Robert

 

Robert, I think it's found it's own level now No more has come out. That takes care of the boil over issue. But now for it running 210 220, going off of your post Choppin, that's exactly what I did, new T stat with 3 1/8" holes in it to burp the air. I'm wondering if it should be a 160* stat instead of the 180 I put in it.

 

Did you check the new stat by putting it in hot water? Some of this new Hencho en China stuff is junk str8 from the shelf.

 

To quote a mostly wise man.

 

Hehe!
Boiled it and it sure did open. Stock t stat was a 150 though, could that be it? These engines were meant to be idling in bumfuck with no air coming over them for hours on end, for the military.
Thanks!