I have a 1950 chevy custom deluxe 3100. I has a 1955 chevy 235 rebuilt motor that runs very good. I have also put a offenhauser twin carb intake on it and two 2 barrel carbs on it. Ive also put a set of fenton headers and straight pipes on the truck. I took a couple springs out of the front to lower the front a little. The truck is 3 spd on the column. Ive been contemplating on putting a differnt tranmission in the truck and a different rearend. My girlfriends dad who I help out alot has a very good turbo 350 tranmission that came out of his 56 chevy. He also has all the hard ware to hook it up on the column. I was wanting to know will this transmission work? he is basically giving me all the stuff because he bought new stuff for is 56. If this will work what rearend should i use? and is there a write up on this anywhere? All the suggestions will be very appreciative. Whats the easiest way to accomplish this and make the truck more road friendly?
What I was able to do on my 50 3100. was i put a t-5 trans out of an 85 S10 then i used a 12 bolt out of a 83 4x4 K5 blazer. i made sure it had the six lug axles in it. the axle went right in. after werds i was able to cruse about 80 down the hwy with out isues
To use any modern automatic behind a 235 will require a $350 adapter setup, and you will need to mount the engine off the front corners instead of under the timing cover for proper stability. It would be better to stay with a manual transmission... If you want to stay with 6 lugs, then the full size blazer "50's dreams" mentions will work and has highway friendly gears available, which would not require overdrive. If you are going to go with 5 lugs, then 55-64 Chevy car, 68-74 Nova, and 4x4 S10 are popular choices, but there are many others also. Keep in mind the backset of your rims when selecting a rearend width to use. If you are planning on using different rims in the future, you may want to consider what kind of backspacing they come with before getting a new rearend.
thanks for the help, i didnt know it was going to be that much trouble to put the auto in. Is there a write up on the t5 swap for the truck??
so is there a write up on changing the motor mounts on the engine so i could run the turbo 350 transmission. ? I think it may come out cheaper if all i have todo is but the adapter plate?
You would be better off as far as drivabillity with a modern 4spd or a t-5 5spd.The auto on the 235 will rob to much hp from the six which does not have alot of power to begin with.The t-5 setup is pretty cheap or even cheaper yet is to find a 60's 3spd or 4spd because the spline count is the same as what you have now meaning you take out the 4 bolts slide out the stock trans and slide the new one in (may have to drill the mount holes on the trans to a bigger size).then mount your new rearend and take it to the driveline shop and your done.Also 65' chevelle rears fit perfect I put one in my friends 51' and if you like ford 9" then a 60's ford p/u is a perfect fit as well thats what I put in my 50'.
Im interested in doing the exact thing. I have a 48 chevy and a 350 tranny. Where do you buy the adaptor plate at? So to run the turbo350 the entire motor has to move?
If you really want to go with a auto behind a stovebolt six you should really go with a 700r4 because of the lower 1st gear for take off then run a low rearend gear so it will be more driver friendly like 3.73's or 4.10's.Like I said before an auto takes more hp to turn than a manual trans so you will need to compensate somewhere to make up for the loss and I think the 700r4 would be your best bet.If you really need to go auto but the down side is the cost of a 700r4.
There is no write up, other than some things I've talked about in the past. The 55-57 235's are not the best candidates for side mounting because they only have the front corners to go off of. The 52-54 and 58-62 blocks are the better choice as they have a 3 bolt mount near the center of the block. As for buying aftermarker mounts for the front corner option, I have some that I developed and will be selling, but I don't have any in stock at the moment.
What year is the engine? The motor doesn't move, you just have to mount it better... www.stoveboltengineco.com http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/s...earchpath/198583/start/9/total/125/Categories Buffalo
As for cheap and easy, a standard 3spd with a rearend gear between 2:73 and 3:36 will work fine for regular driving. Not "quick", but it will give you the highway speed most are looking for. You also will have a 10 spline input shaft and cable driven speedo, so clutch and speedo aren't going to be issues...
1948 engine, those adapters are really pricey i think. I hope there are other ways to get this done. I will have to do some more research, thanks for the sites though. Dustin
No, that's it. Unless you want to run an iron powerglide or a rather rare hydromatic, you will need the adapter plate. a stock 216 is going to be a total slug with an automatic... If you really need to go with an automatic, I would suggest going with a newer 250 or 292 type engine, as these have the V8 bellhousing pattern, etc... You will need to do different motor mounts, of course, to do the swap...
ive been looking around and actually found an 80's model s10 complete, with out title. It has a manual transmission and new clutch and everything is there for $200. I was thinking of buying the truck and using the transmission and the rearend out of the truck and even using the ends of the drive shaft also. I know the s10 rear end is narrower than my 50 rearend but i figured this would be a simple way to get a more road friendly truck out of my 50. I can make spacers or get new wheels with the right back spacing for the rearend. Does this sound like a good way togo?? Also will my factory speedo cable connect with the 80's s10 transmssion?? IDK if the s10 is 4spd or 5spd yet, but it does run. It also has a set of rally wheels on it.
If it is a T-4 it will, if its an integral bellhousing version then it won't. If the trans has a cable driven speedo, then yes it will work with your orignal stuff, provided the cable is long enough. A 2wd S10 is about 54" wide. You may not be able to make it work with the original springs as the backing plate may be too close, and you may find that you have frame to rearend interferance as well. Get out the tape measure before you do anything.
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