Gidday...This is my first thread so try not to flame. I recently bought a Mullins trailer and want to tow it behind my 23T bucket. Anyone got pics of a trailer hitch install on a 23T hot rod? ...Jay
There are so many variables as Ts have so many different configurations of chassis at the tail. Basically, determine the ride height of the trailer tongue and start with that dimension. You can get inserts for the receiver tube with varying drops so that won't be a problem if you raise the tube a few inches. It would be ideal if you could weld the receiver tube to the rear crossmember but if not use a piece of 2X4 heavywall tubing as a drop from the crossmember. Run a right and left stabilizer bar from the tube to the chassis angling back to the framerails. You'll need a couple loops for your chains and a trailer plug spliced into your wiring harness and you're in business. Mullins tow like they aren't even there and carry more than most other small trailers. The tongue length on some is very short which makes them a bit squirelly to back up.
PASADENAHOTROD...Thanks...I had the general idea. Was loooking for a more specific application. If I can figure out how, I'll post some pics when I'm done. ...Jay
Is it the class one receiver that has the 1 3/4" or 1 1/2" male square tubing plug-in that carries the ball? That should be plenty for your lightweight T. Take at look at Reese's Hitches as well as Valley's to get an idea. Surprisingly, Walmart carries a pretty good selection of trailer hitch stuff.
Class 1 and 2 use 1 1/4 sq reciever tubes and should be way sufficient, get them at your local hitch show, believe the reese or drawtite number is 3001. Joe
One thing I may do with my 32 framed 31 roadster is to install a hitch and have the receiver up close to the body so that when the hitch carrier - or whatever you call it - is removed, the hitch frame etc. is somewhat hidden.