Hydraulic brake question. I am getting ready to drill my 46-48 backing plates to fit my model A rear end and have a question. I have checked everything I could find and I understand rotating the plate forward for clearance or mounting the plate upside down. My question is, that rotating the plate forward for wheel cylinder clearance doesn't seem to work out. It is my understanding that the wheel cylinder mounts with the large bore, 1 1/8, actuating the forward brake shoe. If this is the case then the brake line enters the wheel cylinder at an angle that points the line going toward the back of the car. If this is the case I would have to rotate the backing plate an extreme amount to get clearance. Any help would really be appreciated. Heck, maybe I have the wrong wheel cylinders. Thanks.
Rear hydraulic brakes - if you are going to use modern shocks you can cut the Model A shock mount off the rearend and you won't have to redrill the backing plates - they will fit in their original orientation. This is how I did my car - '47 rear brakes, modern shocks and I used the brake line kit from Cling's. The brake line enters the wheel cylinder on mine from the back and points at an angle downward, but immediately makes a couple bends and heads towards the front. I would be happy to snap a couple pics for you if you want. It would be a challenge to bend these brake lines up. And they are tough to fit, I like to start the threads before the backing plate is solidly mounted. Might work to loosen the wheel cylinder if you already have the backing plate tightened down. If you intend to use the Model A rear shocks, then you will need to rotate them forward or mount them upside down. Hope this helps, Will Kimble
I rotated mine, everything is snug but works well. If I did it over again I would probably mount them upside down, but whats done is done
the backing plates should only need to be rotated 15 degrees i made a fixture to do this and i have made about 5 sets of juice backing plates adapt to the A rear without any problems tk
I was digging through a box of banger parts today and found a polished Zephyr two carb intake. Looking for input on running two of the English 97's. I have one on a single Ansen intake now. Engine has a counterweight crank, V8 clutch, Brumfield Super Head, Headers, FS ignition, V8 water pump and has been balanced. Most of my driving is at 6000 to 7000 foot elevations. Thanks in advance for your input.
seems like at that altitude you would need less gas because of the lesser amount of oxygen. I run dual 81's but i'm at 1000'. What's the cfm rating of the english 97's? I'm not familiar with them.
since you guys are about the only people on here who would understand this one: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.jumbani.demon.co.uk/Eu%2520Viaduct%25201912(3).JPG&imgrefurl=http://forums.autosport.com/index.php%3Fshowtopic%3D22656&usg=__3MdGrEyCEsgwysjNv38AlXlWJk8=&h=566&w=800&sz=144&hl=en&start=10&um=1&tbnid=ivvhJFKPL6EX8M:&tbnh=101&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1912%2BPeugeot%26hl%3Den%26rlz%3D1T4DMUS_enUS225US232%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1 so who else has old road race courses in their back yards? Anyone want to make a trip to SF and map out and photograph the '15 SF Grand prize? Maybe a trip to San Diego to photograph the San Diego road race course from '14? Anyone around here near Elgin, Illiniois?
39 to 48 v8 diff question.will the diff ratios suit the banger motor ie.better highway cruisin or will it hinder it.anyone fitted a 39 to 48 rear end to their banger is it the wrong way to go...............dave
I was digging thru my photos tonight and came across these - a forties era roadster that I built before I was 20 in the late ninties. My Dad was a huge help and influence as well. I wished I hadnt have sold this. It had a B with a counterweighted crank, Thomas head, full pressure and inserts - everything - it cost me a packet! It was so much fun and I hope to try and relive some of this fun with my 22 T roadster - 30's - 40's style
<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MR6T7vH7RW4&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MR6T7vH7RW4&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object> I put this in a separate post, but I had to share with the hard core banger guys. As you can hear, there is a lot of tuning to yet to do. Its running 94's with an FS ignition distributor.
"What's the cfm rating of the english 97's? I'm not familiar with them". 150 CFM, same as he originals. These are reproductions made in England
THANKS DOUG!!! Just what I need another website addiction. Looks like that's the site for me to post all my 1908 French GP postcards, both cars and track seans. The really neat find was the photos of the restored 1908 Mercedes. I'm fairly sure that is the ex Larry Beales car that last reaced in Pennsylvania with a HISSO aircraft V8. It also raced in the INDY 500 in 1911 & 1912.
I am pretty sure it is the same car. I think I could take Doug Nye's description as proof...wonder where the engine and radiator went... For shits and grins I am going to the SF public library to get a copy of the Pan American Exposition Race course from '15. Then I will go roam around SF and take some pictures. My grandparents house is located on "deaths corner" for the San Diego road race in '14. Having driven that corner alot, it is a nasty piece of work. Hemrey and the Benz in Moscow. Mercedes in the french GP, of '08.
Oh man Fur Biscuit. That website is too cool. I love maping out old photos and trying to get the modern equivalent. And while we're at it, this one is sex on wheels!
Drill cam plugs as small as you have a drill for. Most sets have a #60 but use a .030" if you can in order to keep pressure up at idle. Do not drill the front galley plug. e-mail me if you need more. [email protected]
Antique Nationals Sunday June 14th. 1954 and earlier drag racing, car show etc. Classes for 4-bangers. [email protected]
Doug, The 1908 Mercedes GP car after Spencer Wishart stepped up and paid over $90,000 for it racing at Fairmont Park in Philadelphia. Note the front frame rolled kickup over the axle, easy way to ID his style Mercedes.
It is a wood frame and I believe the engine is a 'lost oil' lubrication system.. open air rockers.. I've only seen other photos of this car but it appeared to be wet
I remember reading about this car before. It runs an early JAP 90hp V-8 aero engine and the frame is wood. You are right about the Total Loss oiling system, what ever oil you put in will disapear. Those engines burn it, leak it, spray it, drip it....everything except keep it in the pan. Most of the early brass era stuff is like that, so is my T roadster. Just add a quart extra and check it all the time.
Elrod, I have a 3 1/2" drop Model A axle from Joe's Speed. I looked at your excellent Post on lowering your Coupe. Could you have used the Model A Spring Perches with longer Brake Acuator Extentions? I kept the "A" steering Arms and have '32 tapered Ball mounted under the arm for the Tie Rod. Question is why did you switch to the '32 Perch? Thanks again, You've got a very Cool Car!
Elrod would know the best, but I think it's to keep the geometry of the front end correct. The 32-34 perch pins have the mounting hole for the brake actuators higher, because the factory axle had more of a drop to it than an A.
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