ok ive done a search on here and no luck finding what i was lookin for. i need four air bags for my caddy. is there any h.a.m.b. vendor that sells em and if soo how much? i can get em locally for around 260.00 with fittings i was just wondering if i can get em any cheaper? any hepl is apreciated
Do some research and ask questions before jumping in and buying just so you don't have to buy stuff twice. Try and stay away from 1/4" lines as sthey are slow. Alot of bags are set up for 1/4" fittings but go with the fitting that also let you use 3/8" lines. You will like the speed alot more than the 1/4" hose will handle, 1/2" is way overkill!
Theres 2600 and 2800lb bags too if I remember right. Edit: Stay away from AIM/ChassisTech... shit bags
I've been dealing in Firestone bag stuff for almost 15 years, and installing bags since 95. 2500, and 2600# are the same price, but there is a HUGE diffirence between the two as far as lift, size, and bolt pattren. Conitech are the same as Firestone w/their 2500, and 2600# bags. And yes there are 2800#, and a 3200# bags as well. The 3200# we only use for 1-Ton diesels though. For whatever reason people are always trying to use 2500# in the front of a car, when they should be using 2600#??? Whats even worse when people stick a damn 2500 in the rear of a car/truck, and bitch about no lift, and rough ride!!! The biggest issue w/bags are selecting the correct size, and the install. Like someone else said don't do 1/4 lines, except for your gauges, unless you just want painfully slow. Also tank size is something you need to consider also. Whatever you do don't use any god damn compression fittings on airride!!! Please!! Thats one of my biggest issues w/the stuff I see. Use good push-lock fittings, they will be expensive but well worth it. And yes, whatever you do stay the f... away from Chassis Tech bags!!!!! That is the biggest waste of money you could ever do.
This man speaks the truth. Stay away from Chassis Tech/airbagit/AIM or whatever they are calling themselves these days. I would put 2600s all the way around. I don't share the dislike of compression fittings. I actually had them on my truck for over 3 years before I hardlined it. You just have to use them properly. A lot of people over tighten them and mess up the line. If you do push locks just make sure you get good ones. I know lots of good online dealers for the parts if you need it. Later, Chad
just a note of clarification: there is no such thing as a "2500/2600 lb bag". Aim/Chassis Tech/Airbagit (all the same company) MADE UP the designations to make it easir for people to order bags, because firestone model numbers (25c 225c 24b etc) dont directly relate to sizes and people would get confused and order what they thought were bigger bags. True story. Now everyone uses the convention "2500" or "2600" etc to differentiate between the most common firestone sizes. Aim has a LOT of names, chaissis tech, airbagit.com, truckn.com etc etc etc. Be aware that their equipment is sometimes less expensive but you should temper your enthusiasm for the lower price with the knowledge that it is usually an inferior product. They recently have started a negative advertising campaign against all other air ride manufacturers, and will never get another cent of my business. Other companies make only airbags, in order of my own preference I suggest Slam Specialties, Contitech, Firestone, and Air Lift. You will want a mid sized airbag for the front and a smaller one for the rear as Insane mentioned. The larger front bag will have more volume, which allows a lower pressure at ride hieght and a softer ride. The rear doesnt carry the weight the front will, so a smaller bag is warranted, but keep in mind that lift will also decrease. I dont raise the rear of any of my rides more than an inch or two unless I am pulling in a driveway so rear lift is not particularly critical. Slam Specialties are great bags, they dont balloon under pressure so you dont need the same clearances. The RE7 is a good choice for the front and the RE6 for the rear. Contitech has a good ride but will balloon a lot. Same with Firestones and Air Lifts. All of them will sell a bag comparable to the RE7 and RE6 (you can research them, I dont remember them offhand) I havent tried the new Air Lift Dominator airbags yet, but I hear they solve a lot of problems that the older 2b6 airbags had, like lever mounted problems with the bag distorting, and edge crimp failure. These are just airbags, you will need to make or buy cups to mount them in place of your springs. Dont be scared, "cups" are just pieces of pipe in the diameter of the orginal springs with a mounting surface welded in. They can bolt in place or just sit in the perches ( a lot of guys insist on bolting in but your original springs just sit in the perches) A good tip here is to make the cups so that the bags compress fully when you are aired out. If there is any "slack", the lift will suffer and you will need much higher pressures to drive. You need to have it set up with the wheels you intend to run, because any difference in tire height can either keep you off the ground or require the higher pressures. YOU NEED SHOCKS. Use good gas charged shocks, the higher spring rate of airbags will be hard on a standard shock. Some guys will tell you that you dont need shocks if you use Brand X bag, but thats a lie. The oscillation of the suspension will ruin your tires over time. Make sure you have enough supply air. Multiple compressors, larger air tanks, these things are required for larger cars. You will also want to consider seperating the left and right bags with extra valves, even if you dont want to air out side to side, because air tends to swap bags in corners and give terrible body roll. Duplicate lift and dump valves for each corner keep this from being a problem. Sorry for the novel, but I have been running bags since the mid 90s. If there is a bad way to set them up, I have likely done it twice haha.
Just have to say that joedoh makes some good points, so reread if you have to. Yea I didn't go into the real part #'s so not to confuse anyone more than they already are. One thing I will say is that you need to either bolt or weld the lower mount in no matter what, otherwise the bag could move. As for the upper it's best if you bolt it in, and you will wish you would have the first time the car is jacked up and you let the air out of the bags, but the upper can just set in place on some applications, but would rather bolt it in. Yes you do need shocks!!! I could not agree more! Now, I like to run adjustable shocks on our set ups, like Q1A's. Again expensive, but if you really want a good riding car spring for the money. Last thing; yes, always run side to side in the front at least, otherwise you get a nice little lean on corners.
thanks for the info guys. this isnt my first rodeo with bags. just been outta the game a lil while so to speak...im not runnin the 1/2 inchers like the minitrucks do ill be runnin the 3/8 with four solenoids and four paddle switches two dual needle gauges and what not. like i said not the first and deff not the last one ill do just lookin into bags and where to get em again thanks for yalls input
One thing I gotta say I dont see anyone talking about is a ride height control computer I know you are lookin to save some green but its the best thing I ever did I went with the dakota dig set up and they have been one of the best companies I have dealt with in buying parts for my car. It hasnt been all peaches but a great system auto levels and I have been driving 2 years on the the same tires never even rotated em yet! I know air ride does a set up to check it out!
Just PM kustombuilder and get it over with. Mike has some good deals and knows what he's doing. He was over to my place last night.... that's right we spent new years eve together.....( easy!! I know what your thinking) but we were out in the shop til 1 am bagging the front end of my 40 buick! Nothing better than a good ol' fabrication party to bring in 2009!!
Definetly want to run Slams on the front of that XS7's. I run XS7's in the front and RE7's in the rear on all my caddy installes. Plenty of room in the back for a 7" bag, you need the extra support of the 6 ply bag in the front because shock space is limited to none without the chance of them binding, bending or being crushed. No lower cups needed only uppers and you plate the lower control arm or rear diff. On the rear I remove the small bump that locates the spring on the axle but keep the mount there. I have bagged 3 cads for myself and all rode great as well as the dozen or so we have done for others. Josh
ive done 6 cads all with the 59-63 x frames. what i do is run 8 valves, you would nt want to run 4 like you memtioned because the stress of such a heavy car, it will work but i would'nt expect it to last long. conitech "2600" pd bags front and rear. front 3top cup and 2"botton cup. rear i opt to make new 2x2 box 1/4" wall lower link bars with bag bolted directly to link bar with a 5 " tall 5"od 1/4 wall dia round cup.i use urthane bushings in both ends. i would also sugeest replacing the rear upper ball joint on your upper link wishbone while your in there. theres going to be 100's of diferent options here and everybody is an "airbag" expert on here because they had a minin truck, how many actually build there own suspension systems and why do most mini truckers sell there trucks? because they get tired of the BS bag set ups they had. ive seen some post of other members on here that where previously memtioned and if you need pm them or me with questions.its better to ask someoone thats actually done a cad before.
Agree 100% fbss is mandatory on these big cars and replacing 40+ year old suspension components is a wise choice. I run one valve on all the installs http://www.accuaircs.com/product_solenoid_vu4.html
Keeping up with the newbie air bag Q's. What the general thought on monospring/bag rear setup? thanks! Chris
I'll second that question. Also to put in .02 cents, if I wanted to run a 4 link in a 53 Bel Air, what lengths do the link bars need to be?
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