Projects OK... I'm about ready to give up

I seem to have 'engineered' myself into a deep, deep hole. Looking for a shop around SF bay to help me get brakes on this ... thing. There is no room under the vehicle for a brake master/petal (it's not a mater of ground clearance/scrub line), and there is precious little room in the floorboard. I don't rally want to cut into the fire wall, (its not flat) and I don't understand how you would keep the cowl vent closed with an behind the dash/bell crank set up. You would not consider this to be a traditional build so the standard tried and true may not apply, but I don't consider it to be a rat rod. I thought I had this pretty well thought through, but I was wrong. I need professional help.

 

I have a 33 Willys with under floor M/C and booster. Trick is to extend the rod back to where you can mount the M/C. Rod does not need to be stright.

 

San Jose area?
The first 2 that come to mind are HAMBers;
NOTCH
johnnykck

 

This is a pic of the frame, its up-side down for painting. The frame rails are Alston pro-gas units. The 'out riggers' are made from dimensional stock and support the cab at the sub rails. I had planed on putting the master cyl in the small pinch area at the front, but that got occupied by the steering colom above, and the out feed form the lake headers below.

 

I just went through a search of every post you have made and outside of the photos of the bed and gas tank I can't find one of the bare chassis or the whole vehicle which must be a truck. I was thinking of the long pushrod thing and having the mc positioned somewhat to the rear but it looks like you have already considered that.

It looks like it is time for the photos to show us what all of the problems are and maybe someone can brainstorm a solution.

You must have posted the photo while I was busy posting

I took the liberty of flipping the frame over


Could you rig the linkage so that the master cylinder was positioned in one of the boxes that you made with the outrigger? With a pedal/shaft that worked similar but in reverse to a 47/54 Chev pickup clutch pedal setup.

I want to believe that if we were standing looking up at the frame on a hoist we would be standing at the passenger side front coner and the area close to the two tires leaning against the wall would be the front of the outrigger on the drivers side and the box in the outrigger close to the white thing would have enough room to place the mastercylinder wiht a rod of substantial diameter running through holes drilled in the outrigger supports.

 

Wilwood makes remote reservoir master cylinders. They fit in really tight spots.

 

You can get the kind that fit behind the dash but I don't know who makes em.

 

This is a completely diff vehicle, but I decided to work in the stock location notch/fabricate a mount for my 52 Pontiac. Its also going to be a manual setup, with the wilwood master I expect it to stop well.

 

Kugel Komponents makes a 90 degree hanging pedal that fits under the dash. They are kind of pricey, but may be a solution. I will be useing one on my 37.

 

This was taken the last time it was outside of my garage, nearly a year ago, for exhaust work. The crude photo shop is what I'm shootin' for. Might as well spill the beans.... been working on this thing for 15 years.

 

Because the body is channeled over the frame 4" the tall case C6 takes up a lot of real estate.

 

15 years? Whats been taking so long? Your in no hurry i see.

 

I was thinking more of a photo of the chassis from the drivers side showing the engine and trans installed with maybe the steering an exhaust in place.

 

I'll keep looking...

 

farmed out a coupla things...mostly flyin solo

 

X2, get the whole pedal assy with a balance bar built in and then you can eliminate the prop valve and save a few bucks.

Now all you need is a reservoir you can access.

 

What you cannot see in tis pic is the dumps to the mufflers tucked under the front corner of the cab

 

Hanging pedal...welded onto a bushed cross tube from one side of the cowl to the other so that the master cylinder can be hidden behind the passenger side of the dash...inside the vehicle.
You would need a cowl hoop to give the needed strength, but thats tucked right up by the firewall/door posts etc.

Basicly, your "pedal", when removed from the car, would be almost the full width of your cowl. The pedal pad on the drivers side, the cylinder actuating part on the passenger side.
Sounds odd...but has been used in various imports for years due to clearance issues around the transverse engine.
The imports had the master cylinder out in the engine bay above the pass side transmission...you could have it hidden inside behind the dash.

 

I bought the Kugel, combo Brake/clutch master cyl. pedal kit. this solves alot of space issues. Check it out in the Bay Area at Gambino Customs. He can also help with your situation. Good Folks.

 

looks to be no drought...swing petal is the only option. I had posted a question some time ago about a long push rod for a remote master under the floor. That would work... except there is no room for the petal box. If anyone is interested i'll be letting go of the new petal assembly cheap. I'll have to get into the paper work and find out who I bought it from and the part number.

 

How about something like this?

http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/003-RSMP/rsmdmcbp/index.asp

 

what about a floor mounted pedal & cylinder assembly like an Ansen? very "gasser"

 

Looks like you have plenty of room... think about a bell crank if you have to... or removing that one piece of tubing that is smack dab in the middle of where you want to put it.

Buy a pedal assembly from Speedway if you have to... or make one like it.

I mean, jeezus... here's one for $119... somplete with master cylinder and everything. Just weld it into place.... don't be afraid to un-do something you have done to get it in there...

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Model-T-Model-A-1932-Ford-Master-Cylinder-and-Pedal-Assembly,3285.html

Sam

 

I also have space issues (due to cowl steering)so I am doing what hacker was talking about. But I have a clutch and brake master cylinders to relocate. I made flanges to mount to the small roll cage in the cowl to mount the bolt flange bearings and then welded the clutch pedal to the rod, and the brake pedal to the dom that is sleved with oilite bronze bushings. I have not welded the tabs on the other ends yet that actuate the master cylinders, but that is comming soon. If you want more info just give me a shout. good luck.

 

^ cool

 

If you just want to get it done with the least hassel and are not to concerned with cost--Brizzo

 

Waaaaaaaaaaaay outa' my league!

 

My neighbor works there and my insurance guy took his '35 Chevy there to have the steering made better. It wasn't anything like getting a car built. happened quick and works right. Give them a call and inquire about shop time charges and remember that if they do it right the first time the charges don't add up. I have never gone there but matt dosn't think they are all that expensive. Don't cut your self off without finding out. Other wise theres Preformance Fab in San Carlos and Foley Bros. in Redwood City. I have worked with both of them and find them both good people.

 

yeah I think my whole setup with master cylinders was about 150$, I will post more later to show the whole set up

 

Your frame is way overkill. I am sure you could remove a lot metal and be fine. Sometimes a step back can give you a whole new approach. Maybe even saving you time and money. My .02