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PPG K200 primer??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by louder50, May 17, 2009.

  1. louder50
    Joined: Oct 21, 2005
    Posts: 217

    louder50
    Member
    from Michigan

    I have a project truck that I bought that has most but not all bodywork done already. The truck is in PPG K200 and has been for a couple years. I learned that PPG has discontinued K200 so does anyone know what the next step is? Do I have to take it all back down to bare metal? or can I use something else and continue getting all the small spots worked out before basecoating?
     
  2. bumpybigblok
    Joined: Feb 26, 2008
    Posts: 247

    bumpybigblok
    Member
    from Midwest

    Just switch to K36 high build primer. It's the most common replacement for K200. Sand the K200 with 180 thru 320 grit and spray directly on top with new coats. K36 is light gray but you can tint it any color you like with the correct PPG mixing colors. Your PPG dealer can help with any info you need.
     
  3. I am pretty sure that you should be able to use K36 or K38 over the K200
     
  4. 53210
    Joined: Dec 18, 2007
    Posts: 64

    53210
    BANNED
    from canada

    Yes on both cases,if you're really worried,seal with any dp sealer followed by k36 or 38.k200 was the shit back in the day,but apprantly it was killing lab rats left and right.:eek:
     

  5. paintslinger
    Joined: Apr 27, 2005
    Posts: 39

    paintslinger
    Member
    from Kemah, Tx

    Just sand with 180 or 320 then recoat. I use PPG ncp250. I like it because it is corrosion resistance and fills great.
     
  6. death trap man
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 145

    death trap man
    Member
    from Atco NJ

    You should be able to use any good catilized primer over top of it, thow most would recomend to stay with a PPG product. But if you were going to paint it with a diffrent brand paint now would be the best time to swap paint lines. I really like Slicksand by evercoat, but thats just my prefrence because it's cheap and I spray a few paint lines in my shop and it works with all of them. Only have to stock 1 kind of primer. It fills great and sands easy too. Sanding is key thow, just like painting, if it isn't sanded it will not have a good bond to the primer thats allready on it. If you still have some bodywork to do, do that before priming. No sence primeing just for the hell of it.
     
  7. 53210
    Joined: Dec 18, 2007
    Posts: 64

    53210
    BANNED
    from canada

    smalls like ass though:eek:
     
  8. scottybaccus
    Joined: Mar 13, 2006
    Posts: 4,109

    scottybaccus
    Member

    Ya know, I would think about this carefully. I once used K200 daily and had a great sales rep that kept me up on the technical. K200 was ok to use as a sealer so long as it wasn't sanded before top coating. Any sanding at all and it was no longer sealed.
    Primers, as a rule, are not impervious to moisture. Extended exposure to the elements will let enough moisture in to cuase rust under the primer years later. I now have 1st hand experience with this as a car my wife bought recently is rusting through a paint job that is only about 4 years old.

    Has your car been sitting in storage? Even then, was it subjected to dust abrasion of stuff sitting on or around it? Was it driven in foul weather? Left out in high winds? Any bondo under there acting as a sponge?

    If you don't know for sure that the primer hasn't been compromised, you are gambling every dollar you spend from here on 3 to 1 odds. If it fails, you'll spend triple to make it right.

    I would go back to metal if any doubt at all.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2009
  9. Painter D
    Joined: Jan 9, 2009
    Posts: 277

    Painter D
    Member
    from DFW

    What he said.
     
  10. paintslinger
    Joined: Apr 27, 2005
    Posts: 39

    paintslinger
    Member
    from Kemah, Tx

    i agree it does.
     
  11. sik_kreations
    Joined: Jul 14, 2008
    Posts: 436

    sik_kreations
    Member


    poly for one primer in a shop is a nightmare. it has its place but its not a one stop shop for primer. epoxy and 2k definately have their place, and etch does to on occasion. not to mention u MUST seal the poly to topcoat.

    cheap should never be a selling point on material when quality is in mind.

    p.s. dont think im poly- bashing, im not, i spray it all the time. but i always finish it wtih a 2k or epoxy.
     
  12. Chaoticcustoms
    Joined: Sep 20, 2008
    Posts: 270

    Chaoticcustoms
    Member

    The NCP line does work well...smells terrible yes, but that usually means it works the best lol. I would strip it down personally, it probably has absorbed moisture and you never know whats under there.
     
  13. ntxcustoms
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 908

    ntxcustoms
    Member
    from dfw

    If it came into my shop we would have all that old primer removed. As stated above the primer will absorb moisture but also grease and oils.

    If you decide to go ahead and scratch and shoot then make sure you wash the livin piss out it. Anything on the surface (and there is a lot after 2 or 3 years) will get sanded down into the remaining primer.

    I've seen the "old primer with new paint" problems before. Usually everything looks great until a month or two later, when micro bubbles start forming...
     
  14. death trap man
    Joined: Apr 20, 2009
    Posts: 145

    death trap man
    Member
    from Atco NJ

    I should have been a bit more clear, I do stock and spray other primers but I mainly do over all paints. Most get striped to metal, epoxied the bodywork then spraied with Slick sand (poly) and blocked and reprimed again. Slicksand dosen't require top coating and you can wet sand it, were others you cant. My fiberglass guy said it smells alot like gelcoat that they build boats with, might be why you can wetsand and stuff. The only thing I don't like about it is that it needs to sit and cure longer then most. I'll bake it at 180 for an hr and put it in the sun as much as I can for about a week then sand. If your into poly primers give it a try, it sands nice and much more friendly then other pollys I have used. I was just putting Slick sand out there to go over bodyfiller on louder50's truck cause thats what I use over bodywork.

    As far as the cheap part goes, I try and keep meterial costs down so I can be competetive, the part about the cost is just a bonus. It's more about bang for the buck. I use Sikkens (not cheap but worth every penny IMHO) for 80% of the work I do, but I don't feel there primer is worth the money. It's good and I we use it from time to time but it's not designed for primeing intire cars with repair/custom work all over it, the hole line is more ment for repair work as are most paint lines.
     
  15. sik_kreations
    Joined: Jul 14, 2008
    Posts: 436

    sik_kreations
    Member


    i use alot of pcl polyprime and on ocassion use featherfill. i just borrowed my buddies sata jet primer gun just for poly and im hooked. gunna pick one of those up. blows that shit on un reduced and u can get it wet till it runs! lol. sikkens has a really really badass polyprimer that will out fill slicksand,featerfill,polyprime and others.

    pcl i can wetsand too, but i try not too. i just use it to block with 180 and reprime. u can get microblisters from moisture obsorbing into the poly. if i do sand to topcoat i ALWAYS seal.
     

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