I have a 1958 Dodge D-100 that I'm in the middle of putting new lug bolts into the brake drums. Here's my question. I was using an impact wrench to install the new bolts, and it did a pretty good job. But, I wasn't able to get them completely flush with the back side. There is still about a 1/4 inch gap or so between the drum surface and the bolt flange. I don't want to keep going with the impact because my air tank has to fill up every 30 seconds when using the impact and I'm also worried about stretching the lug bolt. I know someone who has a hydraulic press but he's always been really flaky and I'm not too sure if that is the way to go either. Has anyone done this before? If so how did you accomplish it? Any recommendations?
I always have used several washers and a lug nut to set them. Impact works well but a breaker bar works/will work better if you dont have enough air
That's what I was doing. Five washers and an old lug nut. But, like I said, my air tank is not a big one. I have a very limited selection of tools... how would I hold the drum in place while using the breaker bar? I was pretty much kneeling on them to keep them from moving while I was using the impact.
If they are that tight use a press, or support the hub close to the stud and use a BFH and drift to drive in.
I'm thinking I'm going to go the big flippin hammer route. I tried using a breaker bar earlier but the only think I had to hold the drum down was a pair of cheap c-clamps. They didn't hold it.
Do you have a vise? If so, use it to press the studs in. A local machine shop should be able to do it for you too. Or, as was said, a big breaker bar. -Brad
I do have a vice. I did not think of using that. It's a tiny thing though. Alot smaller than your typical table vice.
Flip them upside down. Put a peice of pipe or whatever to hold it off the ground or bench and drive them in with a large punch and hammer. I have also used one of those large bars for breaking up comncrete to drive them in. It works really well with the bar. 2 shots and they are seated.
I didn't lube anything. There aren't any knurls on the studs, the area that fits inside the whole in the drum is smooth.
I've used an impact hammer before. I have a pointed tool for it that has been worn down to almost a nub over time and works great to bang'em in from behind. I've always used one of those steel spacers from one of those old shock mounting kits and acorn style lug nut flipped over so the flat side is towards the wheel or drum. Works like a charm.
If ya drive them in straight, a nice big ass hammer works great! It seats them nice and tight, and no lube required! Note: a firm base is a must, setting your hub on a vise will do.
Okay. So I ran into another problem. My brakes are a two piece design. I was able to get the gap on the back side of the drum from this... to this... Here's my problem. I used two c-clams as tight as I could get them on either side of the lug bolt and proceeded to drive it in from the back. When I flipped it over... That is supposed to be flush. I think I'm just going to take them to a machine shop and save myself the headache.
One more picture. The yellow dots are where I had c-clamps positioned and the arrow points to the lug I was driving in from the back.
When I install studs I freeze them and then play a little heat on the hole its going in. Makes then slide right in and when allowed to cool normail there tight. Got to be a little quick but the air hammer should do you a good job and make quick work of it.
That's what I was originally thinking. But I don't have a torch assembly at my disposal. All I really have is the oven in my parents kitchen. I think I figured out my problem though. The hole in the drum is slightly larger than the hole in the hub. I think I'll have to either heat the hub piece or drill the holes out slightly. Oh, and if you guys are wondering why I'm going threw this much trouble... I can not seem to track down a new set of brake drums for my truck. Not even off of egay. So, I'm stuck with what was on her in the first place.
I figured out my main problem today. This is the measurement for the original stud... This is the measurement for the new stud... This is the measurement for the whole the stud goes into... I guess that's what I get for taking the guys word that these were the right size studs.
Well, after driving those big ones in the stock size is not going to work anymore. Perhaps the best thing would be to drive the studs out, carefully drill the hub and drum for a close fit with a good sharp well sized drill bit. I would offer to help tomorrow, but it looks like I am leaving town for the weekend.. Should be around next weekend though, and anytime after monday for that matter.
I'm probably going to take them to a machine shop and have them do the drilling. I have a drill press at work but I'd feel better with someone who's done this before drilling them out. Who would you recommend? Have you heard anything good or bad about he place on Valley near the old Shell? They're the ones closest to me.
I have had them do machine work on a few engines for me, if you are not in a hurry they should do fine. My son found another shop that has helped him for free with a few small things, I want to give him a try next time. The name of his shop is Mikes Performance Machine over on Compress. http://maps.google.com/maps?rls=com...=1&gl=us&view=text&latlng=6541240309490150062 (Link above with contact info.)
Thank you. I'll have to swing by there and see if they're willing to help me out. It kind sucks not having a license though. That kind of restricts me a lot. Hopefully I'll have it back next Wednesday... if all goes according to plan.
You are right about the dril bits, my son is begining to understand why I have a set that I don't use on "common" stuff... I have a whole drawer full of bits to use on just "anything"... But when someone messes up one of my good ones, it means their ass...
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