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spray bomb paint

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 48chrysler, Apr 24, 2009.

  1. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    So I've got a hair up my ass and I want to paint my car

    I really want to drive this car this summer so I'm going to to the cheap and dirty

    I've been laid off for a while so it needs to be cost efficient too

    I'm going to do a little body work and spray bomb it....

    Any suggestions, advice, Has anyone did this and it looked good?

    I'm still thinking about color choices, Maybe burnt orange, I don't know it is a really big car, Maybe you photo shop guys can do me a favor and see what color looks good

    It is going to be repainted right this winter when I have the time....I Just Want To Drive
     
  2. I invited my 13 yo nephews to my barn, and one of them found a can of spray paint, I told him he could paint a little on the door... He sprayed the word "FART" in dark blue...

    Yeah, I'm an idiot...

    Anyway, I had to cover it up and got carried away, and painted the whole car, this wasn't the first one I've done, so let me pass on a few hints.

    Spray it a similar color to what ever it is right now, the paint in spray cans is thin, and it'll take a few coats to cover completely and don't do it at night or when it's damp... it'll blush like this:
    [​IMG]

    It deteriorates very quickly, will chalk up in the sun. But mine looks pretty good in the rain...
    [​IMG]

    ...or at 50 mph and about 100 feet away.

    If you are OK with that, get your index finger limbered up.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2009
  3. It can be done. Just make sure the surface you are painting is sanded lightly with 400 grit or finer paper. Wipe it down with a tack to remove any dust and dirt. Prime if its bare metal. You can use rust converter on rust. It can be sanded if need be.
    When you paint make sure the can is shaken well. You might warm it up in a bucket of warm water. Not hot. When you paint just use long steady horizontal strokes. Not fast. Moderate speed. Put it on in light coats so it won't run and it will dry faster. Keep the can about 8 inches away from your work. It's kind of like painting a model car. Follow the directions on the can too.
    A lot of this might seem basic or you may already know some of it. That's how I would approach it. I painted a lot of the suspention parts on my Mercury this way and they have held up fine.
     
  4. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 3,306

    missysdad1
    Member

    Don't do it. You'll need to strip it all off when you go to paint it next time or you'll have problems forever. Better perhaps that you spend the summer doing careful bodywork, protected by a good brand name etching primer, and save your pennies for a pro paint job when you're back to work.

    Just my $.02 :)
     

  5. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

  6. Cirilian
    Joined: Jul 19, 2006
    Posts: 169

    Cirilian
    Member

    Why not just polish up what you have there. That has character. I don't see how a rattle bomb paint job is going to look any better than what's already there?
     
  7. Mattilac
    Joined: Oct 27, 2007
    Posts: 1,156

    Mattilac
    Member

    True that.
     
  8. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    it's rougher in real life than in the pictures...It's not bad at all...but just has some surface rust...I just want to clean it up
     
  9. DrJ
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 9,419

    DrJ
    Member

  10. Faded Love Garage
    Joined: Mar 30, 2003
    Posts: 967

    Faded Love Garage
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Spring, TX

  11. Oldsmobucket
    Joined: Dec 11, 2005
    Posts: 331

    Oldsmobucket
    Member

    what he said that would leave more time for drivin
     
  12. Yours is way better than mine was
    [​IMG]
    I'd just leave it and polish the stainless as best I could.... See if those whitewalls can be ground out wider... Stuff that can be done for free.
     
  13. If you address the rust with converter and sand it smooth that will spiff it up. The rust converter turns black.
     
  14. LAWBREAKER
    Joined: Jun 15, 2008
    Posts: 12

    LAWBREAKER
    Member

    Pull that hair and dispose of properly. Burnt orange is strong, coughnobilletcough, looks good to us. Add ONE era correct bumper sticker and drive it EVERYWHERE till winter, then decide.
     
  15. Stevie Nash
    Joined: Oct 24, 2007
    Posts: 2,999

    Stevie Nash
    Member

    I painted black primer spray bomb over grey primer to see what my car would look like in black. I bought the car in primer, so don't go all postal on why did I spray two primers and waste time.... ANYWAY, my point is that although I got the effect I wanted (from a distance), the biggest problem I had was that a spray bomb is meant for small areas and it was EXTREMELY hard to get an even coat without getting runs. That little tip is just not made for the job.

    If I were to do it over, I would by a HF $15 gun and spary rustoleum on it. That way it would cover more evenly and I would get experience using a HVLP gun in the process! Just my two cents...
     
  16. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,842

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    Leave it alone. Spray can paint sucks As soon as you paint your car it will lift .The car looks black in the pictures .Just do the bodywork and prime. Make sure you use whatever primer is compatable with the paint.Let me rephrase that .You cant prime with laquer base primer and then put epoxy over it.Please dont spray bomb it. Maaco would even be cheaper .Spray cans are to expensive.
     
  17. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,877

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    As much as I like Burnt orange...go longhorns, spray bomb primer will not adhese to automotive paint and you will have mucho problems. One vote for no.
     
  18. vertible59
    Joined: Jan 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,058

    vertible59
    Member

    Yes, what he said. Do the rust spots with the converter, sand, then a GOOD rattle can, ( Dupli-Color) black lacquer primer, intended for automotive use, over that. Then, if you feel really adventurous, sand the primer with 400 grit wet or dry paper, wipe the spots down with grease and wax remover, and tack rag them. Then spray the primered spots with black lacquer rattle cans (once again, use product intended for automotive use). Three or four light to medium coats will be plenty. Let the lacquer you just sprayed set up for several hours. Then wet sand the spots with 600 grit wet or dry paper. Now you have dull lookin' repaired areas, but not to worry, because buffing or hand rubbing comes next. Buff with heavy machine compound until the edges of the repaired areas start to blend into the old paint. Then use a good polishing compound over the same areas. Next, buff the whole car. Wipe off all buffing compound and apply Meguiar's #6 wax for the final step. That Chrysler will look super once you are done and you'll be ready for the easy chair and some suds.:)
     
  19. when we were youg-uns, me and a buddy painted a 64 f-85 I think it was, and we used krylon red, we both had 12 cans and a side of a car.
    End result = red ass
    but we were young and it was something to do I guess.
     
  20. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    ok...ok...i won't spray bomb it the rust converter sounds like a great idea...i think i'll do that...thank you for the wealth of information...It will be orange one day though
     
  21. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    i just really thought that if there was a will there was a way...
     
  22. uwonamos
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 271

    uwonamos
    Member
    from Omaha, Ne


    48chrysler, do what you want , I did. It came out so good I threw on some cheap urethane with a flattening agent. Total cost & there was a lot of taping, $285.00. Anythings possible!!!!!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  23. surface rust will come right off with CLR mixed 3 to 1 with warm water and a green scotch brite pad.

    [​IMG]

    heres some vehicles I have done as well as my friends. We swear by the stuff.

    my 60 VW single cab truck

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    my 62

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    my buddy Johns 60

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If that car is original paint, clean that baby up. Rattle can paint wont last long and oxidizes and gets chalky in no time if its always kept outside. Having that original paint with a little patina is a true badge of honor.
     
  24. now ^^that I am impressed! Kick ass.
     
  25. Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Joined: Apr 20, 2008
    Posts: 4,671

    Hot Rods Ta Hell
    Member

    Do all your body work and prep yourself.

    then take the $200 you'd spend on rattle cans and put it toward a cheapo Maaco, etc. paint job.

    The other option would be to borrow a paint gun, make a paint booth out of your garage and teach yourself to paint...or do you have any friends that can help you with shooting paint?
     
  26. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    yeah I actually have lots of friends that paint... the car is actually at my car club garage...I'm the newest member and I don't want to really intrude...the have helped me out a ton already...I'm the 22 year old kid hanging out with all the retirees...we just have a lot of work to do....there a four other cars that we are all working on together on right now..a chopped and nearly dragging 29 A...a custom built model t thing... a 51 merc and a 54 chevy ..not enough time...and I really just want to drive the shit out of it
     
  27. r8odecay
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 787

    r8odecay
    Member

    I never knew old paint made a car undrivable...

    Looks great as is. Polish up and GO.

    edit: and mabey it's just me, but ORANGE? might as well paint the bumpers and all the bright work too. Nothing rhymes with orange. That car needs to keep it dark; something like rootbeer brown flaked. Had to vent that. It's your car...
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2009
  28. 48chrysler
    Joined: Feb 28, 2009
    Posts: 323

    48chrysler
    Member
    from Indiana

    I love the patina on the 60...It reminds me of a broken in stratocaster
     
  29. ratdaddytattoo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2009
    Posts: 63

    ratdaddytattoo
    Member

    I carefully sanded and primed and painted a 70 chevy truck in walmart primer and wal mart dark red paint. took my time and really watched what I was doing. $24
    12 cans of gray primer .99 ea.
    12 cans of dark red paint .99 ea.

    It looked good enough that a week later when the girlfriend wrecked it the insurance guy misunderstood when I said I had just painted it and gave me a check for $3500. $1200 for the truck and $2300 for lost investment.

    I would always recommend having it professionally painted unless you don't have that option.




    ((( orange.......in flat or satin I hope?)))
    If you gotta go all fancified colors Take a look at a dark emerald green candy over gold base. my 2 cents but hey your car. I can show you a pic of a big car like yours in orange if you need a referance......it's kinda hard on the eyes. Guy couldn't sell it. Painted it satin black and it sold in 2 days for $2500 more than what he was askin for before.
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2009
  30. dont do it unless you want light and dark tiger stripes on your car.

    Not sure why the paint doesnt looks so great, just cut and buff what you got.
     

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