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Gas tank drain plug leaks, teflon? or?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Squablow, Apr 16, 2009.

  1. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,432

    Squablow
    Member

    The gas tank drain plug on my '55 Dodge has some seepage coming out of it. I'd like to take the plug out and put something on the threads to keep the gas from seeping past. Any reason I can't use Teflon tape for that? Or is there a better solution?

    I don't want to JB weld the plug in because it's nice to have a removable plug, and I have the tank empty now so I'd like to fix it right the first time. Did some reading on leaky gas tanks but only found threads on patching pinholes, no leaking plugs or fittings.
     
  2. Dirtynails
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 843

    Dirtynails
    Member
    from garage

    here is genuine remedy handed down from father to son over that lat 100 years..and it works!!.
    Get a bar of soap. Place it in water. wait until the outside of the soap dissolves into a mush. smear plenty of the mush on the threads of the drain plug and screw it into the tank. leave for about an hour then fill the tank,don't wipe off any excess straight away. If the tank is leaking on the bottom you can even rub soap on the leaks and they will seal up.
    Try it,it's better than having teflon fucking up your carb jets or injection pump.
     
  3. maniac
    Joined: Jul 11, 2005
    Posts: 539

    maniac
    Member

    Teflon tape should do it, or brush on the liquid teflon.
     

  4. Belchfire8
    Joined: Sep 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,540

    Belchfire8
    Member

    What's wrong with plain old pipe dope? That's what it's made for. Just read the tube to be sure it is for use with gasoline. Most is.
     
  5. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

  6. Hal_396
    Joined: Apr 14, 2009
    Posts: 309

    Hal_396
    Member

  7. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

    That's what I use for any gasket on one side to hold in place.
    It's similar to old fashioned shellac or indian head sealer.

    For threads, I prefer the thread sealant.
    No mess, lasts forever, never leaks and doesn't start flowing at heat.
     
  8. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,432

    Squablow
    Member

    Thanks for the fast replies everyone.

    I've heard of the soap thing too from quite a few people, usually for pinhole rust leaks, but I'm always hesitant to try it.

    I'm going to get some of the Permatex stuff and give that a go, since it comes so highly recommended here. I didn't want to use regular silicone, but the thread sealant seems like just the thing for my leak.
     
  9. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

    Leave the first few threads clean, use only a small amount and don't wipe away what squeezes out when tightening the thread.
     
  10. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,432

    Squablow
    Member

    I'm sure the tube will tell me once I get it, but does this stuff have to dry/set up, or is it good to go right away? I'm going to see if I can score some yet tonight.
     
  11. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

    The text in the link says 'Parts may be repositioned up to 4 hours after application'
    So you may want to wait at least that amount of time, especially with gasoline and a fitting that is known to weep a little.
    Overnight wait should do.
     
  12. llonning
    Joined: Nov 17, 2007
    Posts: 681

    llonning
    Member

    SealAll, comes in a yellow tube. Most auto parts and hardware stores have it. Used to use it on the threads of stripped out Rochesters. Dries hard and is removable. Now I use it to seal chainsaw crankcases.
     
  13. Just get whatever fuel resistant pipe thread sealant is available at your local hardware store. There are dozens of brands on the market that will work; you don't have to get one from Permatex, Loctite, Dow, et al, specifically. I use some in a yellow tube purchased from a local DIY place (Menards or TrueValue); it's not one of the aforementioned brands and I've never had a problem with it.

    Look for a paste type instead of the tape, as the tape can plug up filters if it happens to tear off from the plug due to improper wrapping.
     
  14. jonny o
    Joined: Oct 26, 2007
    Posts: 836

    jonny o
    Member

    Why worry about the threads?

    How about an o-ring?

    Or if you want to get really fancy, what about a drain plug washer?
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2014
  15. dave lewis
    Joined: Dec 12, 2006
    Posts: 1,380

    dave lewis
    Member
    from Nampa ID

    No joke...use "rector seal"
    Plumbing supply store, home depot, lowes, and well equiped ace hardware all sell it.
    Gas proof and works very well. Just a little bit messy, leaves a yellow stain !
    Works great for steel,cast,aluminum,stainless,even pvc.
    Dave
     
  16. Road Runner
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,256

    Road Runner
    Member

    Drain plugs and fittings usually have a tapered thread, often with square or allen/hex heads.

    Hardware stores mostly carry sealants for Natural GAS and other plumbing stuff around the house.
    For Gasoline, Oil, Coolants, etc. I go to auto parts places.

    But whatever stops the leak, lasts and doesn't cost much works....
     

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