I've been racking my brain, using all my resources (mostly the HAMB search) trying to figure a way to get a radiator to fit my 31 model a grill shell. (chopped several inches for a sbc) I have a 66 mustang v8 radiator sitting in the corner, but i really want to have one built using the top tank of an original model a. The bottom tank is too small to have the outlet switched over to the passenger side. So what do i have to tell my radiator guy to pull this off. (under a grand)
MR. FORD here has his that way, I believe it was about 500$. Just bring your radiator guy a core Model A radiator and tell him where you want the necks. Dont forget to bring him the shell so he can make it fit.
US Radiator did mine for a narrowed & shortened Whippet shell. Came in around $700 if I remember correctly. They made all of it though. JH
Going to build my own with the help of the local radiator pal. I am hammerforming the top tank using an Mdf form. Should be well under $500 for parts when done prob 1/2 that.
Mine... A pic or two might help those planning to built their own. With the right core, it doesn't look too hard really. JH
About 8 years ago I had a Houston radiator shop build one for my '31 A. Of course it was stock height but I took him the top tank the bottom tank and the two side straps. He put a core in it, closed off the filler neck, added a pressurized filler inside, reinforced the top tank to keep it from bulging from the pressure, turned the bottom tank around so the deep part was on the passenger side and changed the neck sizes to fit an sbc. All for about $200 but I don't think he would do it again for that price. Shouldn't be that much harder to just shorten the sides as he puts it back together. Just have to fine somebody willing to work with you. Does Walker make anything that will fit? My experience with them has been pretty good.
Dreddy pretty much has it. Take every measurement you can too, like over all height, width, distance from fan to front of the grille shell, points where the radiator will be bolted down. It also helps to tell him where the water inlets and outlets need to be! Then they can be built in with any required angle etc. If you can get the car to him on a trailer it would be better but if not, like I said take every measurement you can. Then its easy to work out what size core will fit in there. Easiest way is to buy a larger core and cut it down to fit, most manufacturers can make a header plate to your specks, if not its not hard to make one from a standard header plate (With tube holes already there) and some flat brass sheet. It will cost, but then you have a cooling system built for the car. This will ALWAYS be better than one cobbled together from whatever fits! Doc.
I made a posterboard tracing of the ID and OD of my modified shell. That way we can reference his books for the right core. I am not to the next part yet but he said that common cores have header panels to match. Once we find those parts I can hammer or hydroform the top tank. Bottom should be a no brainer out of the available tanks. I am going this route since my rad needs to taper like Harrisons Whippet above.
All I did was take my Stock A rad to a local rad shop and he built what I wanted. He did buy a new core, the core cost the money. I had him change the inlet and outlet and with the new core it was to the height I asked for. it cost me $500.
Hey D! What shop? Todd at Dakota or Jack at Rapid Radiator? Jack died last Turkeyday and the shop closed.
This is how I did mine. 1.Trade v8 Mustang rad for Model A rad 2. Mount the grille shell on your car at correct height 3. Separate the Model A rad core from the tanks 4.Insert top and bottom tank into grille shell tape them with duct tape to hold them 4.Measure distance in between. this will be your core size 5. Mock up filler/inlet/outlet necks in correct locations and mark them. 6.Have rad guy find appropriate size core in one of his many catalogs. (if he cant he isn't a real rad guy.) 7. Give Rad guy all measurements, parts etc. 8.Mock it up again WITH the radiator guy and re- measure, check 9.pay rad guy $$$ to start building radiator. good luck
It is important to understand that the old Ford radiators were not pressurized .If you reuse the top tank in stock form and pressurize it , It will blow up like a balloon over time and continually bust the seam . Did that on my first rod (I was 16 and didn't know how to build a proper radiator yet ).I delt with that for about 15 years before I replaced it ! Now I build them from aluminum . I get the cores from C&R racing in Indy and hammerform the tanks as needed. The cores are $120 .
metal man, we would love to see a tech of a top tank being metal formed. do you have any pics? I guess thats why my rad guy told me to run no more than a 7lb cap. the top tank did seem rather thin. I recall him firming a few things up with the silver.
Leaky pipes , My radiator had a 7lb cap on it the whole time but still blew up. They really are very thin . I use .063 half hard aluminum for the tanks . Sadly, I don't have any pictures of one in progress , I'm not much of a picture taker .,Just can't stand to stop in the middle and take em . I'll try to be good and take some on the next one ! Thanks for the interest .
right on, I'll have to keep a very close eye on mine. I run Evans so I should be running an un-pressurized system anyway.
It also depends on how much surface area your tank has . Mine was a '40 ford and the vertical surfaces are pretty large . A smaller tank will be less effected by the pressure.
Lots of good ideas/experience, thanks. I tossed the around the idea of getting an aluminum tank built, but I really don't want the aluminum look. I suppose I could paint it black.
The blowing out of a tank can be a problem but it is usually a symptom of another problem. The top tank in my 38 was the stock one Ford made and as you all know they are HUGE! My father is a radiator man and built the cooling system to suit the 351 Clevo. Since building the car originally in the 70s it still has the same radiator going strong and has never bulged th top tank. (Has leaked a few times and I punctured a tube putting the grille on but hey its a 30 year old radiator!) Metal man, I would love to see some pics of your work! Doc.
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