<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CRith%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <wunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> I have always been very loyal to traditional hot rod parts, especially old speed parts and the like. I'm currently planning out a couple motor builds (yeah more SBC, it's too late to change now), a bored 283 high revving engine, and a blown 355. I guess the problem is, I really have a hard time gimping these motors with double hump heads. Neither can really work to its full potential without breathing. Unlike many of the old-timers in our car club (Sorry most people are old-timers to me, Im 21) that are happy with 250 HP and running in the 15's. I would rather make makes some real power. (I understand, in the gasser days, thousands of dollars in porting work was done to these heads to produce power) So I guess the real question is, if hidden, painted with all the traditional intakes and accessories, are aftermarket heads ever OK? Oh I guess the fact they are going in a Model A matters due to the open engine compartment.
I'm going world heads on my 302 chev, that said, i'd rather be running camel humps instead, but i cant get the compession low enough on trad heads Really in a model a how much power do you need, a 283 will make over 300hp easy, take ride alongs with traditional cars, 250hp in an A is fun, and a hot 283 or 327 will build much more. Also those motors are high rpm quick reving motors too which gives a better feel Really unless you are planning Sticky slicks, then you are just spinning tires anyway
Agreed, 300 Hp is more than enough to be fun, there are about 3 in our club very similar to that, one with a blown flathead, one tame hemi and one nice SBC. Unfortunately with a brother that has a 52 Henry J Gasser, and a continuing quest to outrun each other at the track, I have my work cut out for me. I am having the same problem with compression on my 301, main reason I have considered just staying with a 292. Lack of reasonably priced pistons blows.
Get heads that will make the power you want, then figure out how to make them blend in to the look you want. If your priority is performance, no doubt the modern parts will work better, probably save you money, and and most of us won't know or care about the difference. Keep in mind that no matter how "authentic" you build your motor, there are always those ready to tell you how you screwed it up by using the "wrong" parts.
The vortec heads from 96-05 are the best flowing iron head GM ever offered. Flow bench testing even puts them ahead of the aluminum fast burn heads on the ZZ4 ( i think that's the one) I have a couple of articles where they easily made 430 & 450 HP. I just bolted down a set with the comp cams bee hive springs that support over .600 lift and had the bowls and exhaust ports cleaned up a bit. The intake ports are a work of art out of the box. I am expecting a solid 425-450 HP with my plan. Other than accessory bolt holes, they look like your same old SBC head. At $600 a pair, new, they are a steal. Find a set used and spend $250 and they'll be just as good. The OE sets need springs and retainers installed to exceed .480 lift, but aftermarket versions are available ready to go and can be had to bolt up your early intake manifolds, too.
Let me see if I understand: you saved $50 by using a 283 instead of a 350, and expect to get the power back by spending $1000 on heads........?
The vortec heads would be awsome and if you want to save some money you can find a decent set of them for $350-400 and make as much power as a $1000-1250 set of heads.the casting numbers are 062's and 906's the 062's are the most looked for because they say the 906's need to be pocket ported but you could see pretty impresive gains with these.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/howto/97458/index.html "The Vortec heads offer a wealth of power potential for their extremely low price. In several tests of these heads, we’ve been able to make 400 hp and excellent torque with a relatively mild camshaft. If you include the cost of machine work and better valvesprings, the price does escalate a bit, but 400hp potential without porting with a stock set of iron heads is hard to beat—especially for so few dollars. Small-block street performance doesn’t get much easier or cheaper than this."
Looking at the tailights of a coupe with a pair of 2-Hump Heads priceless !!! And who the hell are you calling an Old-Timer ?? >>>>.
The trick setup now...when using a Gen 1 block [350] is use Gen 3 heads and the new style intake to bolt them to the heads. Then you can use a carb and distributor. These heads stock flow wayy better then the stock heads.. just an idea Speedway sells the intake/msd setup now.
Lets assume you make some serious power with your ultra traditional(?) engine + not so traditional cyl heads. Hmmmm...what else might you need to take advantage of this power... High output modern ignition system............................not traditional Upgraded late model trans or gearbox.........................not traditional Modern shifter........................................................not traditional Upgraded late model rearend with a locker...................not traditional Traction enhancing modern rear suspension..................not traditional Sticky, oversize, new style tires to grab some traction...not traditional Your worried about heads being out of place? So it won't be ultra Traditional...big deal. Make it "Traditionally inspired..." In all honesty thats what a good 75% or better of "trad cars" really are. TRUE Ultra Traditional cars are few and far between. The builders are uncompromising in their search for historical correctness. It's not an easy path and they have my full respect...but its not required to be that exacting to simply have fun with a car that still has an early build theme.
Late model heads stick out like a sore thumb, you could do some grinding on the end of the head, but that raised valve cover rail still gives it away. But; I don't mind, the price on the camel humps has dropped so much that I was able to buy a really nice pair of 462's with big valves and some nice port work for only $200! Thank you guys! By the way, a stock set of humps with 1.94" intake is all a small motor would ever need, a 301 revving to 7500 never runs out of breath with a pair of them.
[QUOTE<META content=Word.Document name=ProgId><META content="Microsoft Word 11" name=Generator><META content="Microsoft Word 11" name=Originator><LINK href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CRith%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml" rel=File-List><STYLE> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </STYLE> Neither can really work to its full potential without breathing. Unlike many of the old-timers in our car club (Sorry most people are old-timers to me, I’m 21) that are happy with 250 HP and running in the 15's. Oh I guess the fact they are going in a Model A matters due to the open engine compartment.[/QUOTE] maybe after you learn a little your sbc w/ camel humps wont run in the 15's and have 250 hp. mine ran 8.80/159 w/462's... over 700hp could have got 70 more w/aftermarket heads but so what. if you are building a 400-450 hp motor you can do it and never know the difference.
Those camel hump heads have been around for over 40 years and a lot of guys have managed to get a lot of horsepower out of them and many still do. The biggest current issue with them is that they may not like unleaded gas very well. I don't have any idea of your mechanical background or experience but I'd suggest hunting up some of the older (pre 350) how to build a hot small block chev books or articles and do some research. There was a lot written on making these engines run and run well along with making a lot of horsepower. Expect to spend money though as it won't be cheap. It's going to take a lot of compression, probably 12.5 and the right cam and having the heads worked on to flow right. I'd be checking around circle track racers that have been racing Chevys for a long time as they may have sets of these heads stashed away that have been ported and polished and consider them obsolete by their standards. I
Dynoroom (Mike LeFevers) on here posted a pic once of a set of aftermarket heads that he "massaged" to lookelike a set of camel humps. Post that pic, Mike. vic
Just saw this thread Vic. Here ya go kid... This was a early 283 (no side motor mounts) that I stroked to 316". Made 417 hp on my dyno with those pos carters.
The Jalopy Journal
