Thanks Ed . No I plan on using my 351w motor if I can find or make a 3-2 intake for it so I can make it look a little more traditional.I also was thinking about maybe buying a y block , but I work in the auto industry so I'm trying to not spend money unless I really have to.
Hey Kevin, check out this thread. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179520 This turned into a pissing contest over copyrights so I'm not sure if this is still in production. It's cool none the less. Just an idea starter. On a different note, the roof I found is $300 for it and a hood. The best part is the guy is in Farmington Hills MI. I don't know if I really need the hood so the price could go down.
Sorry it's been so long ,I have made some progress lately.I took my axle over to GMGRUNT and he drilled it full of holes for me. He chamfered the holes too ,it came out really nice thanks Jeff !! I mocked up the front end so I could get it on the ground finally. Those are not the wheels and tires for the car just something to finally roll it around.
I just tacked some spring perches on for now. I have some new ones on order that will be dropped down in the middle of the radius rod and mounted through them. This should lower the front another couple of inches too.
Today I took the rear seat riser out and cut the floor framing out to allow for the frame kick up.And finally set the body on the chassis for the first time!! I'm going to play with the rear spring a little and remove some leaves to get the stance lower I hope.
Thanks Jay I appreciate that alot ! It's awsome to finally get to see the body on the frame it kinda looks like something.
That looks like crap. You better give it to me for proper disposal. Nice work Kevin. The rear wheelwell looks perfect with that tire. I know it seems a little high but the line follws the tire nicely. BTW saw a model a chassis w/302-c4, hairpins, etc. Looks like a complete roller minus wheels and tires. Heres a link. Can't believe only $2500. I'd own it if I was buildin an A http://lansing.craigslist.org/pts/1102952153.html Eric
Thanks man! Thanks Eric I hope to get the rear a little lower and run some 16" excelsiors they are a little taller. Hey nothing came up on your craigslist page. With all your free time I expect you to have juice in your polebarn and some progress pics on your truck.
Thanks guys getting good feedback really keeps me motivared to getting it on the road!! The wife and kids went south for spring break with the inlaws and left me alone in the garage I better get back out there before the couch starts pulling me in .
Well then GET BACK TO WORK!!!!!!!! You're off friday right? Gonna try to go get the roof on Sat. If you need some extra hands Weds. or later in the week call me. Eric
Hey that would be cool if you don't mind. Would kinda like to see how they look before spending big bucks.
Well it's been a while since I've posted any updates, so heres some stuff I have done in the last few weeks.First I had to spend 2-3 hours apiece grinding and filing on my radius rods,they were pretty pitted. got them prepped enough to drill and weld the spring perch bungs in.They were forged steel so I pre heated /welded/post heated and slow cooled them.Then I Shortened them about an inch and welded the tie rod bungs on. I originally planned on mounting the tie rods through the side of the frame so I ordered some bungs to use, but the more I looked at it I decided it looked messy and blocked the reveal on the 32 rails.So I cut the bungs down(kind of a waste but for the better)and drilled a hole into the bottom of the frame rail and welded the bungs under the frame ,flush.I think it looks alot cleaner this way what do you think?Oh and I cut the radius rods at the front and re angled them to get the correct degree caster.It was all pre heat/post heat don't worry I don't want them to break either. I'm currently working on the rear floor framing and I lowered the rear over an inch to , it sits alot better.
I don't trust bungs... in my opinion I don't know how that will hold... I've never seen it done that way.. I have had Bungs That were Tigged break on Shock mounts hate to see that happen on wishbones.. but maybe its Ok.,??..??? Is the bung welded on both sides??
No they are only welded on the bottom there wasn't enough access to weld the other side through the lightning holes. what about the tie rod bungs on the end of the radius rods?
The rod bungs should be good... The ones that broke on LW and a few other cars i know of were the kind that you drill and weld into the frame for the f-1 style shock mounts.. it should be good I guess the way you have it,,, but I would keep an eye on it.. you don't want those to break... when a mounting plate is made that is welded to the frame and there mounted to that plate it seems that is time tested and a be better piece of mind,,, your entire Build is really kick ass.. BTW.. keep at it and you'll be on the road in no time!! Thanks for the Good words about LW.. evel
I may not quite follow the pics of the tie-rod end and bung layout, but the concern I have is the wishbone's included "angle of movement" vs. the limits of travel when (if?) the mounting plane of the bung is turned 90 degrees? If the front end was jacked up, would the front spring or the ball in socket of tie rod, limit the travel?
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