Man I am sooooooo sick of people with half an idea always bring up the 'Health issue' wake up people, bondo dust is every bit as lethal as lead poisoning. The only difference it lead poisoning takes 10 times as long to kill you!
I use lead on fender patch panels seams, I perfer it over bondo. The right side fender has a total of 5 patches. I also removed and replaced all the lead in the body seams. Lead is personal, you work it by hand, the car likes it and its really the right thing to do.
just like indoor pistol ranges no longer allowing lead bullets...only jacketed or bullets made of lead free lead... most of the reloading bullet manufacturers have stopped making lead bullets in favor of solid brass or copper. or copper coated lead... gimme that can of bondo!!! Tom[/QUOTE] Tom, I don't know where you get your information but what you said is incorrect... and the reasons we're now using jacked ammo is a different topic in and of itself. JP <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
hey guy i ve been been worken in lynwood for the past year and i found a shop buy the name masterson kustoming does all his work in lead ive been there on my lunches to seen how he does it also if u now this address 11070 u will put two ,two together he nows barris ,bill hines u now the rest plus his worker are cool,so if u need lead work (562)355-2136
Quite. I reload using cast lead unjacketed bullets. They are readily available, as are jacked lead, and non-lead bullets. Also, metallic lead (like bullets and body solder) is not easily absorbed into the body. It must be atomized and inhaled for a person to really gather any of it to speak of. That is why indoor ranges generally use non-lead projectiles, because the powder burning against the base of the bullet will vaporize a tiny amount of lead with every shot, and the enclosed space won't let that vapor dissipate, so you end up breathing a lot of it. For the same reason, you do not want to sand or grind lead with power/air tools, because of the tiny powder that is put into the air during such an operation. Breathe the tiny particles or vapors, and you'll have lead issues, but you could literally roll around in a pile of body file shavings, and not come away any worse for the wear. By and large, metallic lead is very inert to the human body. Now, lead bearing organic compounds? That's another story entirely. Those are readily absorbed through simple skin contact (as well as ingestion and inhalation). Happily, the biggest sources of those (leaded paint pigments and the tetra-ethyl lead in leaded gasoline) compounds have been phased out of common use. Bottom line, don't lick the shavings off the floor, don't light them on fire and inhale the fumes, don't go over a patch of body solder with a power sander or grinder, wash your hand before you eat, don't smoke while you're working the lead, don't chew on the solder bar, and you should be fine.
We were all forced to learn the art of "lead filling" at the Chrysler dealership I worked in. Chrysler Imperial new fenders in white came with the seam on the very front not filled from the factory. the owner insisted that the VIPs that bought an Imperial deserved the best no plastic for them. So all the new guys had to learn to lead on all the new fenders that came in. Never had any problems lasted as long as the car did. And the best part NO PIN HOLES like using plastic fillers. No special tools needed unless you consider a metal working file special. I'm amazed about the trans oil use talked about above. all lead work needs CLEAN METAL even to using acid to etch the metal before use. how in the world did trans fluid work???
Lead vs bondo seems to be a popular debate lately, im sure as NTAPHSE said that if bondo was available back in the 50s they would have used it no problem. Im no pro w/ either of the media but i do use'em both. Bondo is a lot diffrent depending on brand, and this is no bullshit, i tried many off the shelf vs automotive brands and found that the one you can buy from a professional body shop aint no match for the off the shelf store ones. Its a lot better and more durable. Fiberglass is crap, its not for metalwork in my opinion. Then,few years ago i had a car at a body shop for a serious collision repair and asked to the body man to shave the doorhandles while he was at it, i asked to weld a piece of steel and not to fill the hole w/ bondo, and thats what i thought he did, until the 1st time i put my car on stands and the area where the handle was cracked....it was filled w/ some kind of liquid plastic, at least that is what it looks like from the inside, as it looks like a bubblegum, only hard as glass. and its a pain to remove, as its hard as hell, but apparently doesnt wanna flex! What do you think it is? other than the worst way to fill a hole in a steel car of course! The lead i use is in tiny round bits that autorithies use to seal stuff, i get em from work,they're like 10 grams or so each and 1 to 2 cm across, i thought of casting my own bars to make it easy,not easier, to work w/ as working w/ small round bits and a torch aint easy at all. The non lead lead, the bars they sell for soldering are a totally diffrent matter. They are hard as fuck to use and melt at a way higher temp. I say you really need to know what you doin to use those...i dont use'em unless at a very easy angle. Anyway, i'd say, to each application its own media. They both work well, lead and bondo, just dont go one or the other, we have the possibility to chose what we use, compared to 50 or 60 years ago when all they could do was use what they had, which wasnt a lot! Just my miserable opinion. bonez.
so indoor ranges generally do not use lead? can you tell me what the non-lead ammunition is called and what it is made from? last time i checked, my company in 10+ years has built over 200+ firing ranges for private, law enforcement and the US Military... most, if not all prefer fully jacketed ammunition with lead free primers (win-clean, i believe) but i know of no range that exclusively prohibits the use of lead munitions. there may be 1 or 2 out there that only use frangible munition to get around some wacky zoning ordnance but again, that's one in a thousand, if that. additionally, the ventilation system in the range if properly designed/engineered will "push" most the lead particulate away from the shooters face and out through HEPA filters. at least that's what it's supposed to be doing. next time you're in a range, look at the supply ventalation ducting behind the firing line and see if its actually doing its job... withoutpulling out a biology degree or asking a chemist to join this post - this is a very basic explination of why I get haired out when using lead either at work or at play. when the body absorbs lead, either airborne or through the skin, it thinks the lead is CALCIUM like in milk... so guess where it goes??? its deposited it into your bones and thats why its so bad for GROWING CHILDERN! they ingest lead and the body jams it way into the bones - and it'll take YEARS to get out! lead is pretty bad any way you look at but i tell ya what, i'd rather lead my car than bondo it... as a matter of fact, my buddy and i are leading up the 54 as we speak! if anyone is interested, i can email a copy of our USMC Engineering Study done on the effects of lead in the huiman body. It'll make you think twice about lead, especially if you have kids running around.
try this vid from tha master http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQ_85fp1avs&feature=channel bill hines himself
Around here, there are very few indoor ranges. The few I have been to require lead-free primers and encapsulated base projectiles. They are not 100% "lead free", but they are, for the most part, aerosolized lead free. One place allows only ammunition bought there. Last I saw, the .45 Auto they sold was the WinClean white box stuff with the "Brass Enclosed Base" truncated cone FMJ bullet. I have never been to an indoor range that allowed the use of standard primers and bare lead or jacketed bullets with exposed lead bases. If it is different in your area, or in your experience, I apologize for make a blanket statement. I very rarely shoot on a range that isn't in my back yard, so it's not something I deal with very often. Personally, I dislike the "green" or "clean" ammo 'cause they use different sized primers than everything else. Which makes sorting range brass a PITA. For reloaders like me, finding lead-free "green/clean" primers is more difficult and expensive. Lead can be dangerous to humans, sure, but it's not like Segourny Weaver's Aliens kind of dangerous. You're involved in shooting sports, I bet you know at least one old reloader who's been casting his own lead bullets for decades. How's he holding up? I wouldn't be afraid of lead body solder, unless you have real small kids, and even then, that issue can be mitigated via good parenting.
I use it.Only for about 8 years and my lead levels are through the roof...........A blood test is not the accurate way to test either.
i know a lot of re-loaders and fishing weight makers and most of them are well above baseline of lead levels. they're old and they don't care, to each his own i guess. fellas, just be careful out there with the lead... we can all make our choices about our own health like smoking or leading up our rides but our kids have no choice in these matters and shouldn't be subject to them. keep it safe!
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