Cigarrette lighter.. damn them

Well the same bastard that burned my finger b/c it wasn't putting off heat or a color change (ya know, hot coils..orange) is my drain problem. I couldnt read the amps with my multimeter for some reason, but with it set to volts, this same cig lighter socket is putting out 6.5 volts with the car off and key out. All the others dont put out any volts. Also, my door jamb switches stopped working as soon as I went out to check the battery..after weeks of working..weird.

 

Just because you are reading 6.5 volts on your cigarette lighter doesn't mean it's draining your battery. It only means that the voltage is available when the key is off. Amperage is what drains your battery and a multimeter reads that across the open wire, meaning that you have to put the meter in series with the load (lighter) on the hot wire to tell whether or not you have a current (amp) draw.

 

i tried checking the aamps from bat neg to my disconnected bat neg cable and on all settings it read 0.00. I couldn't get any amp reading doing the same thing with the positive post and cable.

 

...then you have no amp draw, thus no drain on the battery, or at least you didn't when you checked it.

 

Well then im a crazy man b/c my battery is draning! I have tested the alternator at kragen 3 times and also removed the + cable from the batt when the car was running it stayed on. What could it be then?

 

Dead cell in the battery? Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't, alternator checks out, my guess is the battery is bad.

 

with a fully charged battery, and the key OFF, see if your brake lights are on. I realize that this SHOULD show up as an amperage draw - but if the brake light switch doesn't stick every time....or a dome light/courtesy light/trunk light....

If there is no amperage flowing between battery post and disconnected cable, then (as already mentioned) you don't have a draw. How long does it take for the battery to go dead? Disconnect the battery entirely and then check it after two or three days....then hook it back up - see if the car starts - if it does, let it sit as is (connected) for same amount of time. Check it again. If it's dead - it's something drawing current - if it's dead after sitting disconnected for that time period - it's the battery.

dj

 

You need to perform a load test on the battery. Batteries can appear fine, and give you correct readings with your multimeter, but the only way is to load test it!

 

Also, check the cables... a pinhole in the insulation can let moisture in, or arc when touching a ground... or the alternator cable... if you have the alternator cable just jammed into the terminal connector with the battery, it could be arcing in there.

 

+ 1 on the battery. Get it tested .

 

This is true I second this.

 

This is already the 2nd battery I have gone through.

Last night my door jamb switch started sticking and the lights were on when i closed the doors. Before that they worked fine. So I took them off and capped the ends. Then I also took out the cig lighter.

On average i would say it only takes between 1 hour and 5 hours. I started the car yesterday at 11am came home at 5pm and it was dead. Last weekend I drove the car to my inlaws ( a few streets over) and parked it. 30 minutes later it was dead and needed a jump.

 

if the 10a fuse in your meter is blown it won't show a draw. make sure the fuse in your meter is good

 

also, as mentioned, make sure your cables are in good shape. Also, if your battery is dirty with a little bit of an oil look you can actually have a drain across the top of the battery. . . but not enough to kill it in a few hours.

when you say it's dead, are you checking battery voltage, or are you just going buy the fact it won't crank. A loose or corroded cable can give you an intermittent no crank

 

A multimeter isn't the best tool to use for doing this type of troubleshooting, your draw may be extremely low, or low enough that your meter may not register it. If you have a meter like a Fluke digital or old Simpson analog you can range them down low enough, but it's still kinda hard to tell what you're looking at.

Instead, use a test light, you know, the ones we use to check for power? Take off the battery cable and use the test light in series (making sure everything is off, of course!!!!!!). If the light comes on, no matter how dim, you have a draw, meaning something is "on". Keep opening circuits and checking with the light, tracing your way back patiently, and you'll find your draw (hopefully). Electrical troubleshooting isn't that hard, just keep in mind two things:

1. What changed?
2. Be methodical.

Good luck bubba

 

The battery is clean across the top I read that somewhere else and made sure it wasn't that.

Electrodude, I have used the light twice. The 1st time it only lit up if I put the clamp on the cable and touched the battery with the tip. The other way, it didn't light at all. I checked and replaced all fuses and even unplugged the wiring harness(s) at the firewall just to be safe (yes, i plugged it back in).

This morning with the test light, it only lit up when I opened my doors (ala the jamb switch).

I went out right now to test it and it didnt do anything then the car just turned on. I tightened up the batt to starter bolt and am letting it sit until 11.

Also, when the car is off and the battery sits, it has about 12.4 volts. With jumper cables it goes up to 13.3-.5. When I start it and take off the cables it is back down to 12.0-.1. I just replaced this battery.

 

What kind of car is it?? Could it be your ignition switch or the switch connections??

my buddy had something very, very similiar happen to his 59 chevy pick up, it has a camaro steering column, we changed the battery and the alt but nothing. Theres is a mechanical rod that went from the key switch to the base of the column, where it made an electrical connection that would let the motor start. Some times it would start sometime it wouldnt, but it would drain the battery. He replaced the electrical switch at the base of the column and it fixed it. But you still had to jiggle the switch just right to get it to start........just a previous experience....hope it helps....good luck

 

It's a 66 buick. I replaced the ignition switch (with another junk kragen) switch. All the wires are good and so far I haven't had a problem. How would I check for a drain at the switch wires?

 

I had a similar problem a few years ago. Turn out to be a diode in the alternator. Slowly leaked back through the alternator overnight. Battery good and everything ckecked out OK. Maybe???

 

I guess anything is possible. It IS the original or reman delco-remy alternator. Could this happen even if it tests fine and the car stays running with battery + unhooked?

 

How would I check for a drain at the switch wires?

i dont know man......we never did verify with a meter.......just ran out of other things to change or check and that was the last one....of course......maybe check your neutral saftey switch or the started solenoid???.....wish i could be more help

 

In a 48 buick it should be a cigar lighter, that's your problem!

 

Now that's funny.

Okay, what you've got is an intermittent problem, and as you've already guessed, they are the worst kind. Keep your cool, keep checking and rechecking, sooner or later the problem will present itself and you'll recognize it.

At my work we've gone DAYS chasing an intermittent problem so don't think you're alone...I guess you could try pulling the power lead off the ignition overnight to see if that makes any difference, but I really couldn't say if that would help or not.

 

I had that problem once, and it tooks weeks to find the problem. It was the stero- the memory for the stations went bad an drained my battery. just check everything that is connected to draw power when the key is off. it may take a while to find out,

 

This really sounds like your alt. is bad. You should get a 13-14 volt reading with it running.

 

Had a car several years ago that the battery would nearly fully discharge if it sat for 4 days or more. Had it checked out by the battery shop, the car dealer and others a half dozen times or more with no answer or correction. Went thru 4 new factory batteries in 6 months.

In the end, found out that it was a tiny little short in the ignition. Found that out after we got rid of the car. Since then, the ignition is always added to my list of possible problems areas when dealing with battery problems.

 

When you replace the alternator again don't test it by pulling off the battery cable. That is a good way to fry the alternator as well as some other stuff.

 

I believe it can as the alternator charges and everything else will work fine. But when you turn it all off then the power will slowly leak back through the alternator and discarge the battery. On my corvette with Delco stuff it took over night. The diode works like a one way valve for electricity. When it goes bad it will leak back the wrong direction. DC power you know.

 

How do I test the diodes?

 

Did you find the source of that Previous Owner, intentional or other-wise "Hot-wire condition"

If this car still functions without the key, and even the ignition switch un-plugged
Your just chasing your tail.