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Am I doing this right? (6 deuce setup)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lucky77, Mar 14, 2009.

  1. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    This is my first attempt at a multi-carb application. So far I've screwed up by not getting extended throttle shafts in a couple of the 94's. I'll be taking care of that tomorrow. I started on the fuel log and inlets today. What's a good way to mount the fuel log? Does it just hang there, held in place by the hoses? Am I going to run into any problems running the hoses for the right bank under the bowls of the left side and forcing the fuel up hill. Does if matter if the pressure gauge is mounted at the end of the rail versus the front? I'm just trying to avoid redoing the system once everything is bolted in place, thanks.
     

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  2. Toast
    Joined: Jan 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,885

    Toast
    Member
    from Jenks, OK

    I am no expert but I think you need to run your long side fuel lines on top of the carbs through the little dip near the fuel inlet on the drivers side carbs. Otherwise I think they will interfere with the linkage. Nice looking setup BTW
     
  3. rbroadster
    Joined: Mar 23, 2005
    Posts: 396

    rbroadster
    Member

    Why don't you stick to things you know better like holding down hammocks in Mexico or sitting around wondering how you got such a cool woman?! :D

    Sorry I had to miss the 'Rama, bud. Sedan is looking bitchin' and I can't wait for the next ride when you get the new baby birds all feeding at the same time.

    Wish I could be of actual help, but giving you some sh#t is the least I could do!

    - RBR
     
  4. Cshabang
    Joined: Mar 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,458

    Cshabang
    Member

    i wouldnt run the right side lines under the bowls like that. most of the "rubber hose" set ups like yours ran them over the bowls...When I do my set up, I'm gonna fab a mount for the log....As for the gauge, I don't believe location is that big an issue...Majority of the ones I've seen are on or very close to the regulator. There are tons of guys on here who know their way around 4 and 6 2 setups...I'm sure they'll chime in. I'll be watching and taking tips for mine haha
     

  5. dickster27
    Joined: Feb 28, 2004
    Posts: 3,209

    dickster27
    Member
    from Texas

    Toast is correct, running it under will interfere with the linkage and even running it on top with that floppy hose, how were you planning to keep it out of the linkage on that outside? Do yourself a big favor and run hard line. You can then control where it goes and what it does.
     
  6. FuelFC
    Joined: Feb 12, 2003
    Posts: 764

    FuelFC
    Member

    I have never worked on or had one of these set ups but look at everyone like art.

    Just a question or two I have always had.
    Aren't the bases uni directional on the carbs? And if so why couldn't you run all of the linkage to the inside and the fuel log as well in the middle?
     
  7. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    So this is going to sound pretty stupid but.......Is a regulator an integral part of this setup? Do I need to get one of those too?
     
  8. Zookeeper
    Joined: Aug 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,042

    Zookeeper
    Member

    If your pump is capable of putting out more pressure than your carb float needles can use, then you need a regulator. Typically if you have a stock-type mechanical pump, you'll be ok. Electric fuel pumps and aftermarket mechanical pumps can really overload the needles and seats in a hurry. If you are in the market for a regulator, I've used Holley regulators in the past, and really like them, since they have two outlets, one can feed the fuel log and one can go to a pressure gauge. They are adjustable and very reliable, and not very expensive.
     
  9. ROADRAT EDDIE
    Joined: Apr 17, 2005
    Posts: 1,349

    ROADRAT EDDIE
    Member
    from New york

    I had mine just hanging by the hoses with the pressure gauge at the rear



    [​IMG]
     
  10. 7&7
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 362

    7&7
    Member
    from Colorado

    Dickster is right get rid of the hose! You now have 12 potential leaks on your system. I would support the fuel log. Better safe then on FIRE! Use tubing to connect things. It seems like a bitch at first but, you will get the hang of the benders. If not then atleast use some kind of hose system Littleman used braided hose on his 6x2 and seems to be happy with it. And he has changed jets about as much as anyone has. A little expense now and it will save your ass in the end. I hate rubber hose.
     
  11. Lobucrod
    Joined: Mar 22, 2006
    Posts: 4,122

    Lobucrod
    Alliance Vendor
    from Texas

    I like to make up hard lines and they will support the fuel log by themselves. More time consuming but well worth it as far as I'm concerned. Dont have to work about the hoses chafing and dont have to worry about putting out the fire if they chaf enough to leak.:eek:
     
  12. i think the log should be solidly mounted .. any movement of it will eventually break a connection .. rubber or hard line .. running it down the center will free up the view of them purty valve covers

    so making a steel bracket that mounts unde a couple of carbs and can be used for the linkage some how likea end for a pivot or a cable

    fuel logs used ta be a mount to the firewall too with hoses applied with 45/90degree nipples at the carb ..
    i assume that all the carbs have to facethe same way?

    think progressive linkage ... idle to wot should be 1-2-4-6 carbs flowing with the wot on all so the bell crank on some is shorter and some longer

    what no dist. and wires yet ?

    MAY R/C has a good multicarb story .. some insight on linkage and float settings, butterflys etc.
    good luck have the extinguisher handy..:)

    o ya scoops face the windshield please!
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2009
  13. 33_chevy
    Joined: Aug 30, 2008
    Posts: 370

    33_chevy
    Member
    from TX

    Very nice set-up,I am also putting together a 6 duce on an x1 intake.Looks good
     
  14. hatch
    Joined: Nov 20, 2001
    Posts: 3,667

    hatch
    Member
    from house

    Hey Scott....Hardline em.....and make sure all the lines run uphill.....not up, down, up....to prevent vapor lock.
     
  15. jawdrpn36
    Joined: Apr 17, 2006
    Posts: 326

    jawdrpn36
    Member
    from bay area

    here is what i used to have ran perfect [​IMG]
     
  16. hard lines look like shit..just like hoses they crack and split in the same places....get the linkage bolted on first and then plumb the rubber around em...as long as you change out the hoses when they get hard after a while you'll be fine...and as far as progressive linkage versus straight up...i like a hot rod that barely idles and has to be cleaned out every ten seconds...

    [​IMG]

    T. Hilton
     
  17. hatch
    Joined: Nov 20, 2001
    Posts: 3,667

    hatch
    Member
    from house

    Or when in doubt of the internet specialists....open the hood on your OEM daily driver and see what the factory does, then add five more lines in a similar configuration.....(uphill and HARDLINED)......unless you drive a Russian LADA.
     
  18. Cshabang
    Joined: Mar 30, 2004
    Posts: 2,458

    Cshabang
    Member

    "hard lines look like shit"



    you're kidding right...Hard lines done right are works of art...
     
  19. Lucky77
    Joined: Mar 27, 2006
    Posts: 2,495

    Lucky77
    Member

    Okay, thanks for all the advice. Right now I have a Holley mechanical fuel pump so I probably don't need a regulator just yet. Paperdog, the scoops were set up like that for display at Autorama last week, and I still haven't decided if I'm going to run one of the MSD Pro billet distributors or hunt down an old stock cast iron dist. and put a Pertonix unit in it, or the $500 for a distributor, plug wires, and a coil. I know the old HEI I had was ugly but damn it was so simple.

    I like the look of copper tubing, is there anything I need to know about running that? If I'm going to hard line it, might as well make it look purdy.
     
  20. Del Clark
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 631

    Del Clark
    Member
    from DeLand,FL

  21. TOM KITCHEN
    Joined: Jan 27, 2007
    Posts: 94

    TOM KITCHEN
    Member

    Strongbergs' set-up on my Y-Block. Started out with all 6 functioning with progressive linkage and standard fuel pump pressure. Didn't work too good and had to get out the Strongberg adjusting tool (plastic hammer) every time I tried to start it. The stock 312 doesn't work good with that much gas. Put on a regulator to 2 pounds and it started fine but then had to block off the fronts and rears. Runs great now until I can put in a HiPo 312 (to 348) and will go back to the full six. Car should be at FL. Billetproof if new interior gets redone in time.
     

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  22. 7&7
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 362

    7&7
    Member
    from Colorado

    OH NO YOU DIDN'T- You can double flare the copper tube easy. Bending it is ok as long as you use "soft copper" Use type L or ACR tubing (ACR=refrigeration) then all of your fittings are available at NAPA. You can get the tubing in 3/8 or 1/4 and 5/16 if you look hard enough. Benders? The cheap ass ones at sears or Home Depot are shit. Try to fing a lever or gear bender. They are worth the extra cost for sure. As you will see the copper bends ok on it's own but, if you want a professional job find a good bender. The one I use is a RIGID lever bender. You can bend a 180 with them. You can also use steel tubing also available at auto parts stores. Same thing double flare. The last one I did was stainless tube with inverted flare fittings. No leaks at all EVER. If you lived here I would bend them up for you.
     
  23. strombergs97
    Joined: May 22, 2006
    Posts: 1,888

    strombergs97
    Member
    from California

    Use banjo fittings, cleans up the look and linkage won't be a problem..
    Duane.
     
  24. Zookeeper
    Joined: Aug 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,042

    Zookeeper
    Member

    +1 on th. I always thought rubber or clear lines belonged on a fish aquarium, not pumping gas into your hot rod. Doesn't anyone remember what brought the Ala Kart down in the '60's?
     
  25. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Nice looking setup.

    This is how i did mine with 94's HTH

    [​IMG]

     

  26. Yeah. They look like shit. But thats just my opinion, i think hard lines look like plumbing under the kitchen sink. Just please dont use braided line. Sorry red fuel line is all ive ever seen in the little books and all ive ever used.All the naysayers get on my ass, but ive yet to see my car burn to the ground.

    T. Hilton
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2009
  27. Zookeeper
    Joined: Aug 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,042

    Zookeeper
    Member

    Ever wonder why it's not legal at the track? It's because it's unsafe. Getting away with something for "X" number of years doesn't make it right, it just makes you lucky, and luck seems to run out at the worst times. Unless you never drive the car.
     
  28. Yeah your right man. I never drive my cars either. thanks.

    T. Hilton
     
  29. Littleman
    Joined: Aug 25, 2004
    Posts: 2,617

    Littleman
    Alliance Member
    from OHIO, USA

    I started using the red colored line, but I changed mine out for new all the time...I did not give it a chance to dry out.......I then ran actual black rubber fuel line......and actually was not stopped to run at Bowling green NHRA event after tech.....I did not agree w/ that but ran anyway's.......any tech guy that looks at a vehicle that runs any kind of # and has more than a 6'' piece of rubber line '' the actual rule may be 12'' or less'' I do not remember'' and let's you run is not doing their job....and their signature must not mean too much to themselves......I switched to a combo of hard lines and braided lines to get myself up to NHRA standards even after techs would let me slide........so I set my own standard to protect myself......Braided line and AN fittings have been around......well forever..and if you really run 6x2 setups as a true performance tool and not eye candy or jewelry...you find out real quick that your inside those carbs an awful lot if your hunting for improvement....and pulling off shrunken rubber lines that are over barbed fittings gets old and a pain in the ass and is not expedient enough to do track side.....well it slowed me down wrestling w/ them.......My set up now is quick and trouble free and passes true tech.....It all depends on what your trying to do with the car.....what's it's purpose..............Littleman.......I never had a fuel leek w/ any of the setups......you have to double check everything all the time...no matter how you run!........with my setup I am after volume...small lines are good for the street...

    Lucky77, when I ran the rubber lines I ran the shortest length of rubber line on the driver's side carbs, so close that the fittings would almost touch one another....That really helped support the fuel log...I ran the other three lines over top the carbs to the other side....as other's have done........I ran that way a long time on the street and track, until I started getting faster..many way's to do it..You can use a regulator such as this http://store.summitracing.com/partd...+4294880914+400178+115&autoview=sku..Goodluck, Littleman
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2009

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