I know this has been beaten to death but why not kick a dead horse- Here are pictures of my 4" dropped front axle by sid. Talked to Sids Sunday evening, had a UPS tracking number by the next morning. The axle came painted black, I chose to paint my cast to keep the natural look. The install is pretty easy, and sid recommends to order parts either from brothers or speedway. I didnt want to wait to I did some research and here is what I came up with. The tie rod, pitman arm, and drag link need some mods to work with the axle. First all the balls need to be drilled out and removed. Before that I ordered tie ends from LMC truck- They sell modern taper style instead of the ball style, but these will thread on to your tie rod. The taper on LMC replacements are about .500 small to .560 on the large end. The hole after you remove the balls on the steering knuckles are about .500. I simply used my air grinder with a stone to put the taper in. Take your time continually fitting the the new tie rod end. WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW TIE ROD ENDS, THEY GO UPSIDE DOWN FROM ORIGINAL TO CLEAR THE LEAF SPRINGS. BOLTS OF THE TIE RODS FACE UP, NOT THE GROND. NOTE THIS WHEN INSTALLING THE TAPER. Istalling the draglink/pitman arm setup is as follows: I purchased a Tie rod end from a 1981 G20 Chevy van, (the short tie rod end, not the long one- I can remember inner or outer, just the short one) and a tie rod end from a 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada-Same as s10 Blazer etc. and im sure they cross with many years before 97 and after. Again I am not sure if it was an inner or outer, but it is the short one with REVERSE THREAD. I also used the adjusting sleeve from the '81 G20. This setup will keep everything short enough and plenty of room for adjustment. NOTE: YOU HAVE TO REMOVE *CUT OFF* ABOUT 1" OF THREADS FROM THE G20 TIE ROD END TO ALLOW FULL ADJUSTMENT. Here is the only part I was not fond of: The tapers of the tie rod ends are different. I used the G20 on the steering knuckle, and the bravada one on the pitman arm. I have a machine shop and used some creative bits to get the tapers correct and I cannot tell you exactly what taper reamers you need for the tapers but they are out there and you may need to do a small amount of filing to get them perfect but it is possible. The new ends are installed bolt facing the ground on the steering knuckle and bolt facing the engine on the pitman arm. One more note: I drilled out a 7/8 nut and slid it on the tie rod and welded it in place to allow adjustment of the tie rod without using visegrips. Looking in the manual the toe in / toe out for the 3100 is between 1/16 - 3/16 toe in. I measured this with the tires on, truck sitting on the ground. It is very east to adjust this and not destroy the tie rod with the new nut welded in place. Look at the pictures; hope this answers any questions you may have.
how much steering travel do you have? Looks like with 4" it clears by my 3" dropped axle did not clear the factory steering arm that comes off the other end of the tie rod arm.
There are no issues with anything hitting, but I can see with only 3" there would be some interference.
I did not have a taper reamer to go from .500 to .560, it was the best and quickest way to get the job done that I could find. The new tie rod ends did not come with instructions on how the manufacture wanted them installed. I am sure most people simply install the new tie rod and hammer it on with their impact gun, i felt that was a little to gangster for me, so I decided to remove a little material- but hey thanks for being a hatin asshole. If you want to compare work to work let me know-
And just to any clear any confusion here are some pictures of where I machine- Ahh is was great to go to school to be a shop teacher and use the states money to have equipment purchased...
I have one of Sids axles in my 50. All went together fine. With the 4 " drop, you have to be careful of the wheels you run as far as backspace is concerned if you retain the stock adjustable style tie rod ends. The stock tie rod ends wind up very close to the inside sidewall. I heated and bent my steering arms in just a touch to give me a little more clearance. If I were to do this again, I'd opt for the newer style ends like Buddy used.
Thanks for sharing the info, I've got one of sid's axles to install on my truck. Your post and pics is appreciated. Too bad every time some one tries to share info some self appointed expert has to go telling you how you should have done it. No telling how much info is not shared due to people not wanting to go through the hassle and ensuing shit storm.
Thanks. This will be very useful. Im doing this to my 50 chevy pickup. Looks like your project is coming out great! Any more pics of the rest of the truck? What engine, transmission, rearend are you running? Are those stock leaf springs in the front? Keep it up!
I think it is just the angle...I just did the same installation of a 4" axle and scrub line should be fine with 15" wheels/tires or even better with 16's.
I measured the scrub line with my 15's on- Its about dead even, so I figure with a flat tire, the extra rubber will clear me- I know sid's sells this as a 4" drop, but upon measurement it appears to be a 3.75", I am sure he has taken into consideration most of us will be running 15's. To update the project- Currently in the shop is my GMC 302, punched .040 over, Venoila pistons, Clifford water heat 4bbl intake, Holley 390 cfm, Isky Cam, on a Saginaw 4spd- 1 groove, 2.73 rear- Plan on commuting with the truck. Hope to have it completed by June.
This is my install with a 4" axle, would'a been easier with late tie rods as per tire clearance for sure! Just trying to keep the old school feel with this one.
Hi Guys, Hope I'm not too far off topic but.... Is it possible (and workable) to flop the axle? Seems like it's worth a couple inches anyway. What issues come up when you do this? thanks, (I have a '59 suburban and I'm exploring the options.)
Hey Baron, Looks like you have a 54 chevy with 47 -53 grille and 47( late)through 50 doors anychance you have the 54 grille or front fenders laying around somewhere for sale. just though I would ask...marlo- nice truck some prefer the 47-53 grilles the 54 grilles just look meaner and more meatier. lol thanks bro
Sorry I don't. It actually is a 50 with a 54 roof welded on.I looked long and hard for a good 54/early 55)but settled on a solid 50 I found in Texas. Watch eBay...they do turn up. Good luck.
what looks scarry about it to you? I am thinking about putting a dropped axle in my 51. I was thinking about a clipping it but then I will probably bag it and then it will not get used as a truck... it's a slippery slope. I am thinking 4" drop axle? so they drive fine? any one had any issues out of them?
Hey Buddyc, or Old Guard or anyone, I am thinking of a 3" drop for my 33. Will it have clearance issues?? Will wheels have any effect on clearance or is it strictly steering geometry and the dropped axle interference?
Very nice work but your scrub line is kind of scary. I modified my axle and mounted it above the springs. They required some re-arching and the crossmember was reworked to clear.
No, it doesn't bottom out... and that hemi is HEAVY. I think I did add a leaf as well when I had them re-arched.
All of this has gottn so close to answering my question but what i'm wondering is if I have a 15x7in wheel with a 4" backspace and 235/75/15 tires...will this wheel tire combo fit when puttin in a 4in drop axle from sid's? Already have wheels/tires and worried that if I purchase the drop axle i'll also be having to repurchase front wheels and tires. I'm worried that my 235/75/15 will rub the fenders when turning. Also, I've still got all original tie rods but planning on updating when I buy the drop axle. Don't know if this will help. Thanks for any knowledge u can lend!
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