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Model A header above windshield

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by djust, Mar 7, 2009.

  1. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    I am struggling on how to get the header above the windshield installed on my 29 sedan.
    Bought a new one from synders and it looks good just not sure how to install it.
    Any pics of how it goes on to the windshield and also how the visor ties into it would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Caddy-O
    Joined: Aug 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,644

    Caddy-O
    Member

  3. unclerichard
    Joined: Jun 30, 2005
    Posts: 249

    unclerichard
    Member
    from Michigan

    When I did mine it would have been easy if I took off the visor like I was supposed to. Remove visor and unbolt the wood header. My visor was welded and leaded in so I did my top wood without removing it.
     
  4. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Thanks guys I spent several hours in the shop messing with it today and I think I got it figured out.
    There was no wood left above the windshield and the header cover was missing when I got the car.
    I have a new visor and now a new header cover from snyders and am trying not to put any wood back in the car.
    Today I welded the header above the windshield to the new visor with spot welds where they meet up with each other.
    I have a little bit of a gap on the passenger side between the visor and the header, the drivers side lined up great.
    The new header cover is hand made in Denmark and seems to be twisted just a little bit so I am going to have to fill the gap on the pass side somehow.
    It was easier to weld the visor to the header with both off the car.
    I am filling the roof with a wagon roof and the front corners where the header meets the panels that run above the doors is going to be pretty tricky to make look right.
     

  5. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    did those pictures I sent you help any?
    I have more if you need them..
    the wood really helps complete the assembly..if you plan on not using it..you will have to be creative in how you substitue it
     
  6. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Yes I have looked at your pictures alot and thanks.
    The thing that threw me was the angle the header sits at and also the indentions on each side that line up with the drip rail on the panels over the doors. It was hard to get the indentions to line up straight with the drip rails.
    The visor and the header cover are now one piece and seem to attach fairly well to the original screw holes above the top door hinge.
    The new roof will tie into the header pretty easy I think just going to be a chore to make pieces to fill in the gaps between the panels over the door and the header.
    Might have to cut the panels above the door at the front of them where the half moon cut out is to make it easier. Not sure why it's like that but must have something to do with tying into the original wood header.
    WIll try to take some pics tomorrow after a little more work.
    I also worry that the visor might not be stiff enough at highway speeds.
    Would like to stiffen it up some but not sure how.
    Thought about adding some 12 gauge strips to the bottom maybe 2" wide 12" apart but am afraid it will make the visor wavy from the heat.
    Any suggestions or is the visor strong enough not to try and raise up while running down the road?
     
  7. QMOTOX
    Joined: Jun 8, 2008
    Posts: 89

    QMOTOX
    Member
    from STL, MO

    How do you plan on getting the windshield frame in and out with the visor welded on?
     
  8. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Thats a good question I probably need to give that some thought before I make it permanent.
    I didn't notice that the visor would be in the way of the windshield.
    I would like to keep the windshield operable but that might not be possible.
    I haven't chopped the windshield yet so I haven't really messed with it, it is just leaning up against the wall.
    The visor wasn't on the car when I got it so I didn't have to remove anything to get the windshield out.
    Will definately take a look at that tomorrow before I go any farther with the roof insert.
    I see alot of welded on visors with roof inserts so it might have made me over look something.
    Thanks for the heads up on that.
    DAMN
     
  9. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789

    Glen
    Member

    My visor is welded on and I can still slide the windshield out. You had that same question on the other post last week and I couldnt figure out why? Just unbolt the windshield assembly and slide it out.

    I would not try to pull the windshield frame off of the hinge in the car....is that what your suggesting?
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2009
  10. QMOTOX
    Joined: Jun 8, 2008
    Posts: 89

    QMOTOX
    Member
    from STL, MO

    Sliding the whole frame off the hinge to the side is what I was trying to say. That can not be done on a 28-29 if the visor is welded on.

    You can still take the frame apart and leave the top hinge part of the frame on the car if the visor is welded on. You need to have your windshield frame cut down and have the top frame part on the car before you weld the visor on.

    In my opinion it is a lot easyer to replace the glass when you can do it off the car.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2009
  11. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Okay here is some pics with the header and visor screwed on the side.
    The visor is already welded to the header seemed easier to install this way but this is my first so what do I know!
    The hinge has holes in it to bolt to the bottom of the windshield header I figured the hinge would unbolt from the header and then the windshield, and hinge would all come out together if needed.
    Please correct me if wrong like I said this is my first build and some of the pieces were missing when I got the car.
    Can't wait for the street rod regionals that are going to be here in a few weeks I have a lot of questions and thoughts I want to look at at the show this year.
     
  12. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Damn the pics didn't go here we go again.
     

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  13. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    in your first picture it looks to me that you have the "crown moulding"angle way too far forward..its not in its right place..
    go back and look at my pictures..and see how mine is set.

    the lower flat area of the crown moulding should be level with the upper flange of your upper window frame flange.
     
  14. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    not sure if you can see what i ment here
     

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  15. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    or was your first picture just trying to get it in?..

    hard to tell with the pictures you have up there
     
  16. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Just got done looking at the pictures of your 29 sedan Glen and it looks great, hell of a roll cage you built.
    Wouldn't happen to have any more pictures of how you connected the header panels above the doors to the windshield header would you?
    That is going to be a challenge for me.
     
  17. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    The first picture I just had it sitting up there to show how I spotted it to the visor I will go out and snap a couple more with it screwed in place.
     
  18. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Hers' a few more pics with everything in place.
    I did a 30 minute chop on my old windshield this morning It is pretty rusted in the channels and the hinge is froze up so I will probably have to get a new one.
    It's just money right?
    Von you think I might have trouble with the windshield after I weld in the visor?
    Doesn't the hinge just unbolt from the windshield header?
     

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  19. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage


    you will if you want to slide the windshield out on the hinge insted of removing it..but if you un bolt the upper hinge from the upper header it should be no problem.., (IMO not the way i would do it..welding is fine..but way too perminent for this part ..just my opinion. i would have used screws)

    your upper door headers just need the curve brought down..they look tweeked up, for some reason in those pictures..did I send you a side profile picture?
     
  20. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    side profile

    if you look close i have a piece of steel from the upper door sil to the crown moulding..this will be welded and smoothed before covering the roof.. my visor will be screwed to the door pillars, and to the underside of the Cown Moulding (the wood part) that is under this Denmark made steel Moulding, that way if the visor needs to come off its like 10 screws to get it off
     

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  21. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,418

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    i dont have a good visor yet to show you how that should set in there..
    the one i have i think is off of the 28-9 trucks..(not sure of that or if the truck ones are different)

    the 28-9's were covered with the same material as the roof originally.
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2009
  22. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789

    Glen
    Member

  23. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Thanks Glen I started that thread to I guess you can tell how worried I am about those small filler pieces.
    Instead of running the new roof insert all the way to the header I notice a lot guys make a 4" or 6" filler piece across from side to side next to the header and use it to weld the front of the roof insert to, a little more welding but might work out better instead of making small pieces in the corners.
    Yours looks great good work.
    I might should have screwed the visor to the header for later repairs is I get the visor messed up and need to replace it.
    Anybody have ideas on making the visor stiffer or am I worried about something I should just leave alone?
     

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