Hey listen to this! If you can buy some shit doors, do it. Mac's sells brand new door skins, from the window down to the bottom for only $65. They have the correct reveal and body lines stamped in and have the compound curve that's needed. Buy up all those crashed and rusty doors. They also sell the door bottoms, both inners and outers and also the little triangle access panel piece for less than I see 'em sell here on the classified's or e-bay...just a heads-up.
32-34 Ford truck doors are tough to find. I put a lot of hours in my 34 doors. Trying to remember, I think somebody in Vermont sells lower door skins and bottoms. I think Wolf or something like that.
The gentlman in Vermont's door skin price is $150 a piece. I got mine off of an e-bay store formerly Howell's sheetmetal for $160 for both sides shipped to my door. Quality seems good, will be installing them this weekend.
I just bought a door skin for my door and it seems good. It is off of that ebay store also. Hopefully they work out for us!
I should be starting to reskin my doors also this weekend, time permitting. Along with the skins I have new door botton inner patches to do as well. I plan on taking pics as I go and passing them on this post. Till this weekend.....
yeah, i found the e bay link too. 65 bucks a side from the window down and 35 bucks for the bottoms... not to shabby...
I used the howells door skins from ebay and they worked great, you have to cut about 1 inch below body line.
I have never done skins before! Are they easy to do or any tips from you guys? Any ideas on finding or making hinges?
Check these out - I've had them listed here for a looooong time - let me know if you want pics e-mailed. '32 Ford PU doors, overall decent shape, some rust through around window openings, one has damage near the hinge pockets, no hinges, have inner panels, some inner trim/garnish pieces, some door/window handles/cranks, $800/pair '32 Ford PU rear cab panel, very nice shape, minor crude repair at one top rear corner, includes rear window garnish, $400 They're off an old '32 cab I bought that had sat on it's top for a while. Steve
i know the lament ive got a 34 cab also and the hinges are peeled back through the doors and bottoms are gone might have to make wooden doors ,
this might sound stupid but a friend of mine made a set of doors out of wood all the window frame and door box and the bottom half he made a sheet metal skin and it souns dumb but it was gorgous when he was done he stained the top and painted the bottom to match the body. it didn't cost him much for materals. it was a 32 pick up slash woody it was cool.
Where can i find this mac's you speak of? I googled a bit and couldnt find anything. My doors were both smashed right on the body lines
My stepdad told me that doors were hard to find for the 32-34 cabs. I was lucky enough to buy a 32 cab that included 3 decently workable doors. The problem I am having is finding rear fenders they are either beaten beyond repair or so expensive why bother. I know speedway makes glass rear fenders but I would prefer to have steel.
Tinformer: What we have done is used a shitbox PU rear fender as a pattern and converted Brookville coupe/roadster fenders to PUs. Works great and no will ever know if it's done right.
I few years ago I bought a '32 pickup at an auction. The body, fenders, and bed are in excellent condition but the previous owner had it mounted on a late 60's PU chassis complete with running SBC and drive train. It looked very cartoonish. I only bought it for the body and drive train and paid $5200. I afterwards thought I paid way too much but after finding out how much parts cost for this model I feel it was probably a fair deal. It will eventually become a fenderless rod and I hope to be able to sell the fenders to off set costs. Happy hunting guys.
Currently there has been a door on the Detroit Metro Craigslist for $575. http://detroit.craigslist.org/pts/1045326171.html
I have thought many times about making molds for these doors. I am a skilled at mold making and composite work (another hobby) the only thing that has stopped me was the integration of a steel substructure to the composite outerstructure.
Live in alaska where the unobtanium is the norm. Heck i got one for ya try and find a roof for a 32 pickup
Don't want to hijack but I have a question about fenders. The man I bought my truck bed from told me that even though the 33-34 truck fenders mount differently they could be modified with little effort to mount on the 32 frame.This oldtimer told me that the fender shape for the trucks was the same for all three years 32-34 but the mounting to the frame was different. I believe it has to do with the front horn length 33-34 is shorter than the 32. I know the 32 uses the same sheetmetal as the auto but I have a set of workable 33-34 fenders and a 32 grill. On another note I am really entertaining the idea of making a set of molds for the doors. Maybe we can make it a group effort I can lend my skills with composites.
I think I misunderstood your post. I was talking about rear fenders. The 32 frame in the front lower fender mounting area is 43.5 inchs wide and on the 33-34 it is 44 inchs wide. The radius or shape is the same although the 33-34 fender did use a rear brace inside the fender that the 32 did not. The front fenders appear to be about the same but the shape of the fender where it lays on the frame in front of the cowl is different as the 32 is flat and the 33-34 has a curve or crown to the mounting area. I was going to convert a set but decided to use new Brookvilles instead. I sold the 33-34 fronts for almost enough to score the new fenders.
Krylon I understood about converting the rear fenders. I was asking in addition about the differences in the fronts.
I have a rough pair that I don't need - instead, I need a pair of '32 3W doors - anyone wanna trade straight across?? Steve
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