Well, the Ugly Truck is sold and gone, I can get started on the car I've wanted forever, a '26-'27 T Roadster. I guess I should call this the "Free T" since it was given to me by my friend and H.A.M.B. member Kyle, A.K.A. TCoupeKyle. Plans are for a late 50s-early 60s show rod, channeled over '32 rails, dropped and drilled axle, chrome reverse wheels, early small block with six twos.
This thing looks pretty bad, especially the right side along the bottom. I can actually stand on this rusted-out part without it bending, so at least that is encouraging. Front cowl patch panels are available, as are the "Bun Panels", the lower part between the doors and rear turtle deck. There are other parts available, like the seat frame, but first, I decided I should take this thing apart and look each panel over to see what is salvageable, and what needs replacing. Surveying the damage, the left side looks to be better, structurally, than the right. Must have been laying on it's right side for who knows how many decades.
I started by carefully grinding away the heads of the rivits(screws? Too rusted away to tell) holding the crossmembers that go under the floorboard(which is gone). First one removed, looks like it's a keeper. Second one is O.K. as well, didn't get a photo. Now the real fun begins, removing the long piece that runs the full length of the body. (Rocker panel?) No turning back now. The part is removed from under the cowl, still attatched under the seat frame. The panel is out, exept for one hole, it looks O.K. Pitted but definitley usable.
What your planning will be cool, and the roadster is top on my list also. I'm almost done with mine, and even though mine is a low-budget cobbled-together Bondo king (that had many rusted parts), it is still cool, fun to look at and the real thing. I like yours, it will end up a cool little buggy!
About two minutes with the wire wheel and a quick spray. I think I will sandblast it before going any further. I will try to find a replacement for the right side, as opposed to making one. If I can't find one, I have the left to use as a pattern.
your mockup [or blockup] looks pretty cool...........so its got a little rust, at least your wife will know where to find you for the next couple of weeks..Ha Ha.......
<style></style>I think that looks pretty good. Compared to what we can find up her in northern Michigan, that is practically showroom condition ( well .. almost ). You're coming right along on it. I don't think it would be to hard to make that rocker panel if you have a sheet metal brake. Bend up the outside angle. Then cut out the "indented" section and weld a angle piece to the inside of it and form up the ends.
It has some somewhat complex shapes. I had some square tubing delivered yesterday I was going to use here, but I didn't realize the left side was so good. If I can't find a right one, I'll probably just replace both sides with square tube, and keep the rocker for a restorer. Mine will be covered up anyway, and probably trimmed and notched here and there for the channeled frame.
Definitely some work ahead, but that only makes it all the better when it's finished. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
Being from Minnesnowta that is what we find most of the time here. As a rule I always figure on replacing the bottpm 3 to 4 inches of a body. The rockers from Howel are good enough to use as they are. For the quarters and cowl patches, I have them formed at a local shet metal shop out of 18g cold rolled. The blanks are 18" long and 5" wide. I have them rolled widthwise just enough to give a slight curve and then have a 3/4" lip folded the length of the panel. Some of the sub-frames have a 1/4" lip to the outside, others don't. If I'm working with one without the lip then I have the patch lip turned 135 degrees. If it has the lip, then fold them at about 80 degrees. The ones without the lip are much easier to form. For that reason if you make your own subs, start out with a 14g 'C' chanel and cut and patch in the indentation for the door. The rest of the weird little notches acually serve no purpose. The cross chanels can be welded in place instead of rivited. Making the sub-chanels isn't hard to do. Try it. One more thing, when you assemble the cowl and quarters to the sub-rails, have your doors handy. They do very sometimes in length. Good luck with your project. Let me know if I can be of any help. Ron
Yeah, that will polish right out. Richard! Man. That 26-27 T roadster has always been a favorite of mine too. Even like em' better than 32 Roadsters. Seriously! That will be a cool, cool, car.
I don't have doors yet, and I spent the afternoon organizing/repairing the garage. Can't work if you can't find tools. I will be hitting you up for knowlege on Ts.
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