too much thinking time in the winter........... has got me to this idea. So; I've got a '71 Frolic RV camper thats about 16' long (not including the hitch) internally i'm thinking i can make about 14'6" of usable space. and my roadster is 12' long. I think the camper has a 3500 lb axle, with working brakes, i don't know the weight of either vehicle but think combined it'll be under 3500 lbs. i'd like to carry another few hundred pounds of camping/swap meet gear......... fyi, i'll be towing with a 3/4 or 1-ton truck... am i way off? anyone done this?
great idea. I would suggest you consider finding a brand new 5000 lbs. axle and suspension (not too costly) and install that. With some new wiring and new light fixtures it would be lke a new trailer. Otherwise, you are pushing the limits of an almost 40 year old suspension. Why take the risk of a wreck? It will look way cool when done and we expect pics!
I built a really nice utility trailer out of a free popup jayco. Wound up being 7 x 14 plus the toung with 2' sides. weighs 800lbs Every body i know has used it at least once. hauls scrap 3/4 tons , mulch 6 yards, gocarts,swap meet stuff, moved a few people. it gets abused and holds up well. But It would be kinda high for loading a vehical on. Its deck height is at least twice what my car hauler is.
I'll be watching this thread as I have thought about doing the same. So far the idea of a blow out with my car on a trailer with only one axle has stopped me.
My concern would be the strenth of the frame, a lot of campers really had light duty frames under them. Most I,ve seen are 1/8 wall 3 or 4" channel rails with 1 1/2" angle iron crossmembers. I'd sure look at it before I put a car (even a light roadster) in it, the capacity of the axle wouldn't matter if the frame can't take it.
I've really only inspected the trailer alittle bit, while thinking about this. The underside structure seems very solid, and i believe a much heavier guage than newer ones. I do want it to be safe, I'm considering the idea of buying a new 8-lug trailer axle w/springs also. intial idea is to pretty much gut the entire thing and then lay some 3/4" plywood over the entire floor. but keep the exterior a original looking as i can. first issue is the ramp can't have much of an angle due to the ground clearance of my car. I'll get some picture of it tomorrow....... it's not much to look at now..
there are some ramps available that you place on the ground, then rest the trailer ramp door upon them. They are about six feet long and a foot high. Nice set up and it lengthens the entire slope for loading low slung vehicles. I am certain you could build a set.
should be ok, but I'd beef the frame up a bit before I put a car on it, like metal man said, they are usually pretty flimsy. as for the ramp issue, have you considered putting air bags on the trailer? just a thought.
Retired from building ALL types of trailers for 25 yrs.---------Start with new steel!! ALL travel trailer mfg. use as light as possible frame & cross structure to make their products LIGHT WEIGHT! I would suggest main rail frame 2X4x1.20 wall---Cross structure 1-1/2 X 3 X 1.20 wall. Draw bars ( V tounge) 2X4X 1.80 wall, using a 2-5/16 ball coupler Tandem axles dropped 4 inches rated 3500 lbs. each axle with electric brakes on both axles Leaf springs rated to axles For perfect backing & towing, measure 42" from FRONT of frame to center of ball coupler. Also for best towing ANY LOAD, measure 60% front of FRAME LENGTH to CENTER of axles when welding on the attaching parts. This applies to any number of axles (single included) Tailight buckets can be made bullet proof if you use 4" sch. 40 black pipe 3" long,& weld a 1/4 X 2" strap across the back side to mount the lights. weld the pipe to main frame rail. Use round lights found at any auto parts OR trailer supply. Ramps can be made out of 1X2X 1.20 wall sides,about 60" long, with cross structure 1X1-1/2 X .083, cover with expanded raised metal 3/4 -10 for good grip. Ramp holders can be either across the rear (underneath) of trailer, length wise, out of 2"X 1/4 angle, OR hinged at rear with stiff arms to hold in upright position while moving.----Using black OR white paint is easy to touch up!!---Now that was easy wasn't it???????????????--------------Don
Poor idea, this ain't a hot rod where speed is king. This is a hauler where safety is king. You're building right on the edge of safety with a single axle car hauler. The absolute first choice on this build is a poor one IMO, and means all subsequent choices are irrelevant. You're moving the CG way up with a loaded car. Dual axle puts a lot of stability into that situation. When you start seeing campers with weights similar to your roadster on an open trailer, guess what.....2 axles. Now factor in the cargo's importance. You ain't hauling junkers home from auction, you're hauling your pride & joy. Good luck back at the drawing board
My dad used one of the smaller campers to build himself a trailer to haul his welder/generator/toolbox/cutting torches on. Used the original plywood floor (took the linoleum off) and everything.
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