Has anyone used the brake line double flaring tool that JEGS sells? What's your opinion of it? I have a K-D set and it's crap! Every size line I tried was off center to some degree. Thanks.....
Just my 2 cents....the garage journal is probably a good place to ask about specific tools...most of the JEGS house branded tools appear to be chinese or poss. taiwanese in manufacture to me....I did some reasearch on brake flaring tools and found the consensus was to get one of USA manufacture if you wanted to have a good shot at being successsful. That said, I'm like 60% sure that I bought a KD brake flaring kit and its made in the USA. My flares would all come out lopsided, and the fix for me ended up being to not have so much of the tube out of the block when flaring. I'm kinda out on a limb here as I'm just a novice to flaring brake lines, but maybe that's of some help. Good luck, I know I spent a frustrating afternoon or two before I got what appear to be useable flares.
Yup, too much tube sticking out will bite you in the butt every time. Use the tit on the insert to set your depth, and then pull back just a hair. I have a high end commercial unit that will make the shittiest double flares you have ever seen if you have too much tube sticking out. I haven't messed one up since yesterday. Reminded myself to go a little short on the next one and...problem solved. Also, pay close attention to how the insert is sitting before you start and make sure the main part of the tool is centered over the tube. I have contemplated tightening the tool down over each hole empty, and then marking the body of the clamp so I know the tool is centered. Oh, and extra flash/junk left at the cut end will mess things up also.
I had the same problem at first- then I finally, out of frustration, READ THE DIRECTIONS. I know, if feels like giving up. But do it. My problem was like what the others said- make sure the tubing is free of burrs, etc. But what really opened my eyes was what the directions said about the length of tubing- The length of tubing sticking up above the flat plane of the block should be the same as the thickness of the "puck" used. That way I know the length is always correct.
This was *EXACTLY* what I had to do to get the flares not to be lopsided! I'd measure the tube at the same height as that button, and it'd be bad. When I pull it back just a smidge, they look right as rain. Excellent advice Stevie G! worked for me!
Bob, i don't have any experience with either brand you mentioned...I've always used my Snap On one both at work and home.... I've had GREAT luck with it..and it's got to be 15 years old now. I know the're not all that cheap, but i've been extremely happy with the quality over the years and when it comes to tools i make my living with i've always felt ya get what ya pay for.. If your interested in one of them let me know. I'll get one from my dealer for you. he come's in every wed. Tony
I have a GRIPS brand that produces a crappy flare every time. I finally bought a Snap-on and what a difference! The dies for the double flare are much better quality.
I never used the Jegs unit,but......... My K-D unit sucked until I read how to use it as well, I also started making sure my tubing is cut square, filed free of burrs, and I add a little pre-heat with a propane torch after everything is all set up, not cherry red or anything, just enough to take some stress of of the metal.
I used to make a lot of brake flares ( although not with the KD tool), but haven't flared any lines in a few years. I did read the instructions to refresh my memory and had the cut square to the bore, chamfered the burr, measured the line 'stick out' with the puck, use some lubricant, etc, but it still came out lop-sided. I figured it was just an off-shore piece of crap, but maybe not. Operator error??? Possible, that's for sure. I'll try it again tomorrow and vary the stick-out. Maybe that's the problem. Thanks for all the input. Tony, thanks for the offer. If I can't get this %#!* to make a decent flare, I'll take you up on getting one from your Snap-On Rep.
Thanks again. As an old guy, Tony, I've learned that a tool that flares every time is rare......very rare
If all else fails read the instructions. Also I had a K&D set that made loppedsided flares.I found the die was worn out. Check the die. You can find replacements. Do not go cheap you pay in the long run.
I know and that's the only reason i offered to get ya one. Normally i don't suggest tool's. Everyone has thier own thought's and feeling's on that stuff. I've used a lot of these tools over the years. Some worked like shit. Poor flares, and many would even break the 'tit' off on the 3/16 bit right in the line. I use mine weekly at the shop replacing brake line's on cars and can honestly say i have a ratio of around 1 out of 50 flares that were unacceptable. Maybe i have been lucky..don't know..but i do know it's performed excellent for me time and time again.
Fwiw... when i cut the line, i dress the end of the tube with a small file before making the first part of the flare.Seems to help the initial flaring process. Another tip, on the final flare, don't crush the line with all the force you can munster, just get a good solid flare to it, That way, when you tighten the line it can "crush" against the seat. may not be perfect, but it seems to work for me.
Don't know about the JEGS tool ( I own a double flare Rigid kit) but I will throw my two cents in on flaring. Most of what was already said is correct. -Buy a quality(read $$) flaring kit from the start. This is not an area to go cheap on. -Read the directions-really!!! -Use cutting fluid when making the flare. -Make damn sure each cut is clean and true. I even go to the trouble to use a tiny modelers file to clean up the burrs. use a blow gun to blast it out when done. -Referring to the step above, treat the whole process like your building a watch-don't do any steps "sort of right". -Once you clamp the line in the holder, clamp that in a vice so you have both hands free to crank down to make a nice flare. On that note, find the sweet spot on the crank downs. Not too much, and not too little. -Do shorty test pieces until you nail it. There is nothing worse than putting a shit flare on the end of your perfect curvy one-off masterpiece. -Last and most importantly, be sure you put the fitting on (the right direction) before you flare. -Following all these steps and taking your time, your flares should be as nice as the ones you buy from the parts store. D.
Wheatherhead makes a real good set. Little pricey but a good one. No lop sided flares. For my own self I couldn't justify the cost and bought a rigid from the depot. If ya don't hold your mouth just right it will give you a loper..
I have a Mac brand that I've been using for about 25 years. Don't remember having a flare that I couldn't use. But I dont remember too good nowadays either. Sometimes they come out a little lopsided and one trick I learned is to tighten the crap out of the second step where you actually form the final flare. That way your assured that the flare is smooth on the inside with the right angle. The outer diameter of the flare might be a little lopsided but as long as the center is true and the outer diameter doesn't interfere with the flare nut then all should be well.
Well, I couldn't wait until tomorrow, so off through the snow, wind & cold to the shop I went after dinner. I tried again and this time, kept the 1/4" line down about a 1/16" from the puck step and it looked a lot better - not perfect, but better. I'm going to spend a little more time with it tomorrow and see if I can find the 'sweet spot'. If not, looks like I'll have to get a better one. KJSR: My KD flaring tool is also a #2199. I have no idea how old it is, but I'm going to keep screwing with it, at least for a while. F'ng tool ain't going to defeat me, I hope.
The Jalopy Journal
