Calling all the early Hydramatic guys out there. I know that the early hydramatic didn't have a torque converter, they describe it as a fluid coupling. How are you guys making your camshaft decisions with these transmissions? I don't want something that won't idle or is terrible at the low end. I know there are a lot of specs for the old hot rod cams for Cadillacs, Olds, etc. I know what I'd do if it was just a manual trans. and I was only worried about the motor, but I can't seem to get my head around this fluid coupler concept. Is it really that different that different than a torque converter? If it matters I am working with a 1950 single range Cadillac Hydramatic.
If you can get a torus out of a Chevy truck, they are a little smaller in diameter. This should give you a little higher 'stall' howenver not like a 3200rpm torque convertor. We did this in my buddies 55 Olds and it worked well.
Howdy Brock, I have used cams of 280 ----230,235 @.050 duration with the hydro's . Idle set at around 650 to 700 ,gives that drive-in rock and roll vibe,,and like C-9 said no worry about the bottom end with the low ratio of the hydro first gear. Hell second gear is lower than some four speed manual box's first. You start getting into the 290 and above range on cams then low speed driveing will be a pain with the slobbering. Had a 323 big bad cam in a hydro once and in town it was a pig ,,can't have all your cake and eat it.
Thanks for the info guys. I think that I am good as far as launches go; it will be in a 1928 Model A Tudor with a 9" with a 3.25 gear and a 30"-31" tire. Plenty light compared to a Cadillac or Olds. Still want to cruise at 65-70 mph +/-2200-2500 RPM. I have specs for an old Isky cam that I was thinking about trying. (I think they will still grind them.) It is an "E3" solid lifter hardfaced series. For track/drag .430 lift 274 deg duration - intake 28-66 exhaust 66-28. That sounds like just about duration based on Don Wow is saying, and if anybody would know I believe he is the guy. This sound like a decent selection?
Being a NW guy are you getting yours rebuilt?? and if so where?? I'll probably do mine myself but i wouldnt mind knowing someone who can sort out anything i have problems with
I will probably do the assembly myself, but I don't know. I have not really talked to any shops about it yet. I want to figure it all out on paper first and hopefully avoid the problems you mention. I know Fred (Engines by Freddie) is up north and has built the HAMB drags raffle engines. I don't know of any true Cadillac experts in the NW, let me know if you do. I think Larry Reda had his blown 331 built at Bud's Machine in Tacoma.
The E3 is a good pick, I have a another you might want to look over. Have a Clay Smith ground for my 4750 pound 58 98 and with 3.42 rear pulls high 13's ------intake 23-67 exhaust 72-28 intake dur =224 @.050 exhaust dur =230 2.050 INTAKE LIFT.513 ---EXHAUST LIFT.540 as you can see this is a split duration cam and favors the breathing on the exhaust. You will need to get some heaver springs to run this lift,,but you ought to upgrade the springs for the Isky too. I'm very pleased with the idle ,and the grunt thru the whole rpm range with this cam. Damn ,,ain't a caddy a half sister to an olds anyhow? Price on the Clay Smith is very reasonable and springs can be bought from any of several people----around 300 open and 120 closed. The Isky will have a lope sound and the CS will have sorta a machine gun beat---any way its different due to the split .
Thanks Don- what is the number of the CS cam you mention? I took a quick look at their website and couldn't find any cam specs. That one you mention sounds interesting. Olds and Cads are the same with the siamesed center exhaust ports, anything to help them breathe better. My little car will weight about 1/2 what your Olds does.
I have not got that far yet. Mine was out of a good driver. I was going to just keep my fingers crossed and do new gaskets and seals. There is a really good guy down in CA that I have talked with about a rebuild if need be. He said a stock rebuild will be more than enough for the light Model A. He said I'd regret making it shift harder.
Hey Brock ,the cam is a solid lifter number C-7080-12-R. I had to give them the spect's I wanted and they ground on my core.
Hey wait a minute ,here is another one, lot's of lumpey-lump and pulls like a freight train,,,got this one in my four inch bore 324. It;s a CS also---C-284-8-B . It has a 108 center line instead of a 112 for a lighter car --intake -70-46,,,exhaust 70-34 no split--236 @.050 and .530 lift on both sides. You might want to take a walk on the wild side ---don't sweat the stop light manners with the hydro--it will be fine.
Many years ago I got an Isky cam for 371 Olds which was a 3/4 grind and put the early Hydro behind it. Went with anti-pump lifters and adjustable push rods. All were Isky products. Hole shot was unbelievable, beat just about anything out of the hole, biggest problem was 2-3 shift, which dropped alot of RPMS, but hooked to a 3;70 posi unit alleviated that problem. All of this was in a 62 nova with Econoline straight axle. Low 12 car. I would check with Isky, they will probably be able to set u up right.
Thanks for the cam numbers Don! I like the sound of this one too, but I don't know if I can get away with that much lift. I have a set of McGurk adjustable rockers that I plan on using. I am pretty sure that they are a 1.5 to 1 ratio. Aren't the Olds like 1.7 or 1.8 rocker ratio? I have read that with Cad you don't want to go much past .500 lift max. don't have any real world experience though. Like you stated valve springs are a must, but won't the "reduced" rocker ratio affect the lift? There is a cam that is mentioned on another post as a Howard M48 that Hank37 used to run in his Cadillac mill I am going to try and dig up some specs on that one as well. He said he would hit 6000 RPM with it. Also used 65 Corvette solid lifters and valve springs. Thanks again!
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