Bangin' in the New Year - The January BANGER meet is now open

hi all...thought this would be a good place to post these. some recently aquired engines and parts. i hope to have some finished engines available soon....

 

I just noticed how the front axle was dropped on this- VERY NICE!!!

 

Willeys Jeep?

 

Looks pretty Model A to me

 

Maybe I should elaborate.... I was asking if the dist Petritl is trying is from a Willeys 4cyl jeep, or another model.

 

Willys 134ci engine from a CJ3.


This one only has a mechanical advance but some models have a vaccum adv as well. The body is just a little to big ~.040. The shaft lenght will be nearly perfect after the off center tab is removed and a off center slot is made to drive the oil pump.

 

Petritl- Keep us updated. If it works out for you I'll be trying it in mine.

 

Al...lets do this!!!!! im bringing my junk up to you.....looks packed in there cant wait to see everything!!

 

I am going to a friends tomorrow to turn the distributor body down. This should be the last big hurdle I need to cross before I can put the engine on the run stand.

Vtwin, your ride is lacking a box; you should come up to Washington, IL and talk with my neighbors. They have an old trailer that looks as if it was made from a 30s truck behind thier barn. I seem to recall the box being in pretty good shape.

 

Converted my stock updraft intake to downdraft with a Stromberg 94 on top.
A good friend got me the cast iron header for christmas.

 

I was thinking the same thing!!! Who did it?
Is that your car Fur? That is a bitchin T !!!!

Happy New year!!!
..

 

I love this!!! Can we see the combustion chamber?
.

 

Great job Sam. Nice work.

Are you going to have to get the addapter certified as well?
.

 

Not mine, but I like the style. I am all for simplicity. But balancing minimalism and getting it look like something other than a hood and some seats tacked on is usually not acconmplished well.

I wish there were some detail shots of this car.

One of my favorite cars is Pete Eastwoods second speedster (the blue one).

 

It is the same style that was used on the ice racer, then on edsels car.

I like the drop on the front end, but the front spring is going to work very well.

 

As far as the rules for the SCTA are concerned... You need a shield for the flywheel, i.e. "Scatter Shield" that is SFI 6.1, 6.2 or 6.3... so, we're going to buy one for the flywheel which is on the back side of the aluminum motor plate (which goes between the adaptor we made and the scatter shield. So, we're legal!

Here's a pic of the motor "mid" plate installed...

Sam



The orange bellhousing will be replaced with a scatter shield.

 

OK,were do I send an axle core to get it droped like this? Nice car!

 

This is how I'm working thru the bottom end of the 5 main block. I know none of you will ever have to do this on one of these (I have two) but may help you somewhere along your engiine building life.

I cleaned the cap and block up. There was a lot of old sticky stuff inside both parts

Then fit a snap gauge in to get some place to start.

Mic'd the gauge and fit it to a stand

Then the self centering bore gauge is set up to that measurement

OK Here you can see the main bores are anything but round. Each number on the bore gauge is a .001. Each little line .0001

Next step is to measure the bearing shells and see how thick they are
turns out .077-.085

My guess is these bearings were 're-sizable' They aren't an even thickness

When the block was bored for these bearings for the 2.500 crank they went way into the maincap bolt bores.

Next step it to fit both bearings in and see what the actual ID is.

We are only going to use the old upper main bearing half as a spacer.

We'll make new caps fit them and line bore the old upper bearing half in the block. The new caps will be the OD of the new bearing as will the old shell. So the new cap holds the new half and the old bearing will hold the new bearing top half. The new cap also holds the old top half(now just a spacer). It the machine shop do their job right well have a straight set of new mains. We'll install the bearings and measure the ID..... check for round and tell them the size to grind the crank too

The loads and therefore the heat are greater on the lower half of these mains than the top half. Heat transfer is much better without a spacer. So the new caps do many things. They don't have damaged stud holes. They retain the old bearing half in the block with crush. We have a straight main bore of correct size. AND the new caps are 4 bolt blocks of steel. We sleeve the outer bolt hole so the cap location is repeatable

Honest once the crank turns we just have to design the con rods and pistons. Then on to getting the oil system to work while I wait for a couple months for these to arrive. And fix years of chassis abuse!!

May seem like a lot of work, but the effort here makes up for 'broken trackside' after a long day's tow to the track.

Have a good New Year everyone

 

Bluto,

Happy New Year!!!

Can't wait to see/hear that engine run again- keep up the good/tedious work!

37kid- Don't I know it- that drop is gorgeous. I've seen pic of guys putting a center dip in a T axle ('course I DIDN'T save the site and can't fin it now) to give clearance for the crank, but this is a whole new look.

furbiscuit, I'm confused- are you saying that the spring will or will not work on that drop?

 

When the axle travels up it WILL contact the spring.

If it does your gonna a have a-hole so tight you couldn't get a knitt'n needle up it with a sledge hammer!

 

I am refering to the clearance between the spring eyes and the axle. The way the drop is performed the sping perches are rotated in a fashion that moves the spring eyes closer to the axle, what this could cause is: as the spring/shackels move through its range of motion (while hitting a bump or otherwise), instead of a being able to flex and move, it instead will hit the axle and stop moving. this leads to things like the front end coming off the ground, usually at a very in opportune moment.

This of course can be check fairly easily: jump up and down on the front end and see if it bottoms out, if you can bottom it out while jumping on it, definately going to bottom out at 80 mph.

To make a T handle you dont really need a super stiff suspension (makes it worse actually) as all the spring loads are then transfered through the chassis, which definately is not stiff but more of a giant spring. "Most" speedsters would benefit from having a atleast 1 rear spring leaf removed and possibly 1 front. (what the need is rebound control)

When removing spring leafs do not remove the smallest one at the top to soften the springs, but the second from the largest one. If you want to remove an additional leaf then remove the second from the smallest one. Most importantly to make leaf springs work: MAKE THEM SUPER SMOOTH AND SHINY (polish them with emery cloth and oil until they are smooth as glass).

 

Or coated with semi-gloss black Teflon......

The you not only get 'slippery' but also no heat build up from the leaves friction.

This means you can use shocks as shocks. If you want to

 

happy new yr to all ....... got my front end done , trans done , now the rear end is out . just lots of little things to do................. steve

 

I see about an inch and a quarter clearance there on that shackle to spring perch... probably enough because the shackle is in it's "upswing" when the spring flattens out on a bump. That's NOT the way you want a shackle to move, as the car has to lift up when it wants to bump down. I don't see how that would work very well.

The solution is a shorter spring.

Sam

 

Happy New Year! Man did 08' fly by fast. Getting the seats covered in the touring and it should be a driver.

 

Semi productive day today.
I went to a friends house to borrow his knowledge and equipment.
The distributor was disassembled and chucked the distributor body in the lathe and turned down the stub .040 to .996. The distributor will now fit in the head. The shaft of the distributor had a off center tab that engaged the oil pump drive. I needed the shaft to be a 1/2" shorter and a off center slot. The shaft was chucked in the V. mill and the bit was centered on the off center tab. The tab was then milled off at the same time the new slot was made; .025 at a time. The distributor is now ready for use.

My next big hurdle is waiting on the lightened flywheel.

 

Why don't you ask here about those 200 Kelsey's? I'm curious about them myself.
truthfully i thought it was on the "fordbarn" ! a guy emailed me & as if i had found the owner of the 200 sets of k/h . so i ask there cause i thought i had seen it there . no response , so i researched the topic here & walllaa . no harm intended , tying to help a guy .................... my best story ... steve

ok , really .. this is my first "banger" meeting & never thought of it !

 

The new year is here and i need to sell my 29 roadster. I have posterd on here showing the build of my 29.It is on 32 rails with a 34 "C" erngine with a Miller Schoefield head org. cast iron. All the machine done by Ron Kelly in Texas. Evering thing put on car is new. Email if interrested email me. My health is going down hill.62 years old and old and age sucks. I will try and post pictures here if not i know i can email them.Thanks 40BCOOL

 

darn it, I thought we weren't going to tell 'em?

Logical progression...