Would it be sensible(safe) to lengthen split bones with threaded rod and a coupler? they already have bungs welded in but are about 4" too short Thanks Bob
i can't visualize what you are trying to do , but by your description it doesn't give me a warm and fuzzy feeling. maybe you could post a few pictures? are the bones stock length and just too short for your application , or have they been shortened? you might be better off getting another pair of bones , or a different year may be longer. for example: model A's are short , 32-34 longer , 35 and up even longer. what year are they?
I'm told they are '32's and yes they are stock length but just too short. You've answered in a way so i will look for longer Thanks Bob
I ran into this problem I just rebuilt everything bought new tubing measured and cut.I would not add length with all thread or anything like that .It will possibly fail and would not be good .My 2 cents
Oh God no! Grab a length of threaded rod, put one end somewhere solid. Grab the other end and twist it over. That flex is NOT designed into the rod, their strength is longitudinal, down the threaded shaft, not acrossed it. Get some bones the right length, or retube yours. I'm not a car expert, but I've seen conveyor systems come apart with the kind of repair your looking at. NOT GOOD.
What 40 streetrod said!!! Moving them forward, make sure what ever you have as a mount on the bracket end can deal with the angle change. If there adg.rod ends you can get them in5,7,9,11 degree offset.
Do not use all thread!! Either get longer ones to start with or cut the ends off and use tubing to make longer if you are able to do that sort of thing. Or move the mounts forward like others have said.
A friend of mine (I think he uses PasedenaHotRod on this forum) made me a good deal on a pair of 47-49 dogleg bones. They were cut really short. If you are familiar with Ford bones, they aren't round. They are thinner on the vertical axis and thicker on the horizontal, tapering down to a round end.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o></o> I got two pieces of Schedule 120 pipe that was the same OD as the thinner of the bones dimensions where they were cut off. I then used a torch to split one end of the pipe about 8 inches from the end.<o></o> <o></o> I then tacked one of the split sides to the bone with some good tacks. I drove a chisel into the torch cut lines on the sides of the pipe until the other side aligned with the bone. I tack welded that very strong.<o></o> <o></o> I now had a pipe welded to the end of my bones with a triangular void on each side. I cut a piece of metal to fit the void, and tacked that in. I then welded everything up, Making sure I had good penetration. Once it was all welded, I hit the grinder, then a tiger pad. Can't tell they were ever touched. The taper is smooth enough to round to not be able to tell.<o></o> <o> </o>
As long as he is a good welder or has somebody to weld them up well that will work. Mine are original 31 A bones that we split then lengthened about 8".
To misquote Mr. Nader "Unsafe at any speed" if you aren't able to weld additional length of tube on them yourself a welding shop should be able to toot-sweet might cost a few bucks, but cheap insurance just my $.02
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