finned aluminum tube type trans fluid coolers...yes? no?

How do these aluminum finned type tranny coolers hold their own against the good ol fashioned kind? I'm plannin on usin one of these finned aluminum tranny coolers on my model t sedan...plannin on it getting alot of miles on it...want something dependable

 

I'm running one... I just didn't want to mount one way up in the front on the radiator.

I mounted mine close to the tranny under the passenger side.

 

I'd sell you mine... but they're not as good as the small radiator styled coolers.

I'd recommend the Dirt Track oil cooler... not only does it cool the oil temp better than the Finned Aluminum tube... but it resists stone hits as well!

 

RE the dirt track cooler, is that a brand name or a generic reference? Get them at Speedway or? Thanx, Gary

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/B&M/130/70266/10002/-1

 

Perfect... thanx. Gary

 

That's the one... plus I'd run it with "Russell" oil lines and AN fittings to eliminate any leak or flow issues.



Seriously... As far as this finned tube piece of junk... I'd pitch it or use it as a "Puke Tank" because it certainly didn't work cooling the transmission!!!

 

The trans fluid starts to breakdown at 220 degrees, and the best temp is below 200 degrees.
If you are thinking about just using a single finned tube............they do very little.
The best coolers are the are either factory type (good ole fashion type), or Sprint Car type with a built in fan above the small radiator.
I have a radiator type (good ole fashion type), a two tube (finned) type and deep aluminum pan for the C4. I also have a temp gauge in the pan to monitor the temp. The deep aluminum pan dissipates heat faster than the small metal pan and extra fluid does also. Don't forget to change trans fluid/filter every 3/4 oil changes also.

IMHO

 

If you have enough room consider a B&M cooler. I've used them before and they are quality parts. They cost a little more but are worth the price.

 

I agree with Wingnutz I put one on my 56 ford truck with 350/350 combo
.Worked ok local but first road trip to goodguys Lonestar if hurt the tranny. I switched back to the rdaiator style.I do not know if i would use it for and overflow catch can.It is banned from my truck. Gary

 

There are differences in the finned tube types. One just lets the fluid go straight through and not really cool down that much. The other is a loop so the fluid circulates a couple times before exiting the cooler. Forget who's does what?

 

If you've got the room, the absolute BEST one out there is made by Shogun Industries. The B&M units have an o-ring at each end (and speaking from experience, they've been known to leak after a couple years) and they have no fins internally or externally. It relies on just the extra fluid capacity to be the "cooling agent"

The Shogun unit has internal and external fins and along with the extra capacity, it does a great ob of cooling. I've used them on my last 2 dragsters and have made a ton of runs (many back to back in late-round competition) and have never had ANY probs with trans overheatin.
Here's a link to their site.

https://www.shogunindustries.com/cg...084117894&page=products.htm&view_item=KK12209

 

I am using one of the aluminum tube coolers and have not had any issues. Have done several few hundred mile trips and have not noticed any bad effects. Has any one else had good results from them? You guys are starting to make me worry that it is hurting my tranny and I am not paying enough attention to it.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

Yes, down under by the tranny........

 

I also did some research into which trans fluids are the best and I found out through some independent testing that was done in the mid '90's that Synthetic Amsoil ATF is head and shoulders above everything else out there. I wish I could find the specs, but I remember that every other brand that was tested broke down at SOME temp, however the Amsoil never broke down.

 

BTW the B&M I recommended is the radiator style, not the straight through design.

 

As chopped coupe stated tranny fluid starts to break down around 220 degrees.The real answer is adding a temp guage to monitor what is happening to the fluid. Gary

 

I run one and no problems. But my car only weighs 1600 pounds!

 

I have also done some research and here is what I found. With a 350 trans I used a small cooler from Pep Boys. I mounted it horizontal under the tail shaft and put 40,000 miles on the roadster with NO problems. Someone told me they use that type setup (small radiator type cooler) on the tow motors at the air port.
Now I have a 4L60E in my Willys. It also has a small radiator type cooler mounted horizontal about 2 inches below the floor just in front of the right rear wheel. I also have a transmission temp gauge. I noticed on a hot day the temp didn't even get to 150 for 45 miles of interstate driving. In traffic (stuck) the temp did go to 210 (hot day, 45 minutes of 2 MPH/stop) but came down quick once I was back up to speed. Today I went 20 miles and the temp never got off the peg. I worry about that too. Trans should run at 150 degrees for proper clearances. Lock up converter also helps keep temp down.

 

alright...this is what I have, I'm using it cause of space issues, no room for the other type...what about using this cooler and a derale preformance cooling trans pan?

 

I don't think those pans do much.

If money's an issue, the B&M cooler is similar to the Ford Crown Victoria ones. That style really is best. You're just gonna have to make room I think.

 

From my experience with my cpe the Derale pan is good for around 25 degrees of cooling going down the road. I put one on this spring after driving the car over 40,000 mi without it. I also have a large Perma Cool brand cooler w/fan back near the rear end. Without using the fan this combo running down the road is around 155-160 degrees. I only use the fan in heavy traffic situations is the temp gets to around 200

 

Get rid of the tube... keep the pan and buy the $69 oil cooler for race cars... they come in different widths and sizes.

The Race cooler I bought was only an 2" wider and bolted to the bottom of my frame and uses AN fittings to steel braided lines.

It resists stone damage and radiantly releases enough heat where you wouldn't need a fan... and with the AN's and the steel braided lines... I don't have leaks and no fuss connections that flows flawlessly.

Please trust me when I say that tube isn't sufficient for abusive street use... My tranny burped fluid so many times I thought there was something wrong with the tranny... but an Old tranny expert turned me on to this system and to this date I have never had that or any other tranny issues!

 

Ditto on the Crown Vic cooler and also some late model Jeep Cherokee's. I've found B&M coolers on cars in junkyards too. You never know what's there till you look.

 

well, this is what I had planned on doing...but I've heard more bad about these coolers than good...so I'll just have to spring for one of the B&M units suggested and try to find room for it...

 

That's how I had my "Boiler Maker" mounted before I changed it for the Race oil cooler. The new one does take more room... but I don't have to worry about the tranny "Barfing Up" on me...!

 

i have the same cooler mounted in the same place on my model a and it don`t work.the trans gets hot and starts leaking fluid on my h-pipe and starts smoking like crazy.i can run it on short runs but in traffic forget it.i quit driving it till i get an aluminum pan and a good cooler.i have room issues too but i`m going to make it fit.somewhere.im putting a fan one on for insurance.hate to catch it on fire because of fluid spewing on my exhaust.i`d rather spend a few bucks then loose my truck.

 

Engineering-wise the "flat plate" style coolers rule, for pure small sized heat rejection efficiency. Take a look at one of the Cup cars or endurance sporty car racers for a clue about how good they are - you won't see any tubes with fins at all. The B&M coolers are the flat plate type - but in recent times there has been a Derale flat plate unit with integral fan - maybe 10" by 10" that is a decent deal. E-bay often has some small Cup car take-offs for sale too.

 

The junk yard is a good source for coolers also. Look at 3/4 ton newr trucks they have some real nice ones for around 20 bux at pull a part. Also I see some very nice lookin coolers for air conditioning or maybe they are dryers that look the same. Anybody tried using one of those FEDER

 

I use them and have been on many long trips on the T's and A's I'd say they are fine but a heavier car will probably need more cooling.