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Water Slide Decals... has anyone cleared over them?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tuck, Dec 29, 2008.

  1. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,780

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I know they're lacquer based... so I was curious if anyone had some experience painting over them in clear? Are there tricks to this?

    I have a little project I would rather not experiment with... as these are all vintage!
     

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  2. theflame
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 169

    theflame
    Member

    Us scale modelling guys do this all the time to protect them from getting damaged when we handle them. Success depends on misting the clear on REAL slow, dont soak the decals or they'll wrinkle and get ruined. Creep up on them, and if you got a spare one test the clear coat on it first to make sure it doesnt attack the surface. The 'cooler' the clear, the better...
     
  3. theflame
    Joined: Jan 24, 2008
    Posts: 169

    theflame
    Member

    By the way, if theyre brittle at all, as waterslide decals often are if theyre a little old, they'll fall apart when you apply them. To help with this, give the whole sheet a couple of layers of clear before you cut them out and put them in the water.

    Also, if they backing has started to yellow with age, tape them on a window and they sun will bleach the brown back to clear most times...
     
  4. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,273

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Be careful with the paint you use, any that have 'hot' solvents in them will eat the suckers away. Model paint is made so it wont do it.
    Doc.
     

  5. JustplainJ
    Joined: Apr 24, 2007
    Posts: 908

    JustplainJ
    Member
    from so.cal.

    When I was restoring Indian and Harley's and we would use a water transfer decal (After applying it) I would fog it several times with lacquer clear to keep the urethane clear from attacking the decal.... lacquer must be sprayed with several dry coat thought or it too could attack your decal. hope this helps.....
     
  6. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,780

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Thats what I figured... fog it...
    I do have some I can test- I bet speed clear w/super thin/fogged coats with long flash time is the ticket- I'll report back with my findings-
     
  7. Tuck,

    You could also scan them, then print new ones using new decal sheets.
     
  8. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,780

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    thats a good idea mac! I think I'll scan all of them high res just in case...
     
  9. don't use speed clear.

    i did a jobbie on a bike tank a couple of years ago. i cleared the base, wet sanded, applied the decal (making sure it was absolutely dry) then like these guys said, lightly applied some tack coats followed by a medium wet then a wet...came out nice...
     
  10. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,780

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I have the base cleared and ready-
    what clear did you use?
     
  11. it was either PPG concept dcu2021 or Virtus (tip top) with a med reducer
     
  12. DocWatson
    Joined: Mar 24, 2006
    Posts: 10,273

    DocWatson
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Use waterproof ink when you print them. I used to make mu own decals and the normal printer ink will run like a bitch. Also a normal printer wont print white, you need an Alps printer for that. Easy way around that is to use white decal paper, just needs some good trimming after!
    Doc.
     
  13. Tuck
    Joined: May 14, 2001
    Posts: 5,780

    Tuck
    Tech Editor
    from MINNESOTA
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    cool- I based it with 2002 I think-

    I love 2042... you use it with an alternate iso dcx8 and it locks up so fast dust doesnt have time to fall in it- they used the dcx8 when it first came out and then changed to 61... not recommending the x8- but I've tested it over TIME the stuff is bullet proof and would hardly shrink-

    Thanks for the input guys... doc I have a 3' wide HP printer with UV ink- you can manual feed- that should do the trick-

    Tuck
     

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