So I'm planning a swap to a small block chevy. Ya I know it's not mopar and easy way out but I have a 3 speed in the garage and access to a good 283. I've read a number of threads on the subject but I'd like some opinions on like's, dislike's and experiences with the diff motor mounts available. With the exhaust I know alot of guys used '56 chevy manifolds but has anybody used anything else?? Front cradle: Tube style: or Frame mount: I know you can use the stock steering with the swap by offsetting the engine about 1 1/2". But in the future if I so wish to switch to rack & poinion I had some thoughts and questions to make sure I'm understanding. Frankly I don't quite understand bumpsteer. From my understanding when mounting a rack you want the tie rod pivots to be at the same height as the lower control arm pivot right? The cavalier rack is the popular choice because you want the tie rods to attach in the center because the lower control arms are so long and won't affect the geometry. Any input would be appreciated.
I don't think the cradle mounts will work because of the shape of the frame and front crossmember in front of the engine. Frame mounts, however, are very easy to fabricate because of the shape of the frame alongside the engine. The 56 Chevy exhaust manifold works with the stock steering box. You only need the drivers side manifold. Someone posted pictures of a later stock cast iron manifold - the type that swings underneath the plugs - that had a perfect shape to avoid the steering column. The engine might have needed a bit of offset - no big deal. I am not a proponent of putting R&P in these cars. That is just my bias; has nothing to do with the ease, cost or results of doing this. However, my feeling is that if I were going to start upgrading the front suspension, there are other weak links in the chain next. The stock brakes are marginal (so you'll need disks) and the stock sway bar is a joke (so you'll need to beef it up) and the front shock mounting between the upper and lower a-arms is just a science experiment (so you will need to fix that, too). By the time you are done, just swap in a Fatman kit or, my personal favorite, a Jaguar XJ6/XJ12/XJ-S front suspension, including the crossmember. Fabulous brakes, smooth ride, bulletproof design, crazy accurate steering (need to install poly rack bushings), easy to rebuild, easy to align yourself and cheap as dirt.
I think plydo sells a rack and disc brake kit i did a fatman kit frrame stub works well but w/ the a arms rack spindles steering u joints and all the stuff it gets spendy i guess it boils down to how and how far youre gonna drive it and how much you have to spend
Plym49 and phukinartie, I agree with what you are saying bout goin down the chain. I've contemplated the sub-frame route and how to go about it. Either buying a kit or finding a front frame section which wouldn't have the clearence issues and putting that in, which would be cheaper but WAY more work getting it lined up. It all seems to keep snowballing, first with the motor swap then its steering clearence, oh rack and pinion. Then well if I'm gonna do that I may as well sub-frame it. Next thing you know I'm gonna want A/C!! haha But the fact of the matter is money isn't flowing right now, wife can't really work much while she's still in school. So it's mostly what I can horde or earn from selling parts and sidework. So I'm more lookin to do the motor swap for now. I'm just real curious about the rack & pinion, heard lots of pro's and con's about it.
It's been a long time ago, but I used a 318/torqueflite from an early '70s Dodge Dart in my '48 Plymouth the first time around and it fit like it was made for the car. I think it's pretty much the same as your '52. Had stock steering, stock front suspension with chopped coils and stock front brakes. Used the Dart cast iron manifolds and the left one wrapped around the steering box perfectly. I think we offset the motor a bit, too. The stock passenger manifold worked okay, but as I recall we had to change the oil pan for clearance. Manny Martinez did the engine swap and fabricating the first time around. Thank God we used a 9" rear axle with decent brakes! I had to use both feet on the brake pedal and a lot of leverage on the steering wheel to get that pig to stop! The stock Plymouth brakes are crap...dangerous! I'd have gone with discs right away, but there was no easy way to do it back then. You'll need to modify the inner fenders to get the clearance on the sides but the firewall is okay as-is. It's been a long time and I'm old, but hopefully this will help a little. Oh... I still own the car, and when the first 727 died of old age we (Ray Lund - Builder Of Better Beaters - and I) rebuilt the car completely using a Fatman Mustang II IFS with a fabricated front stub which was Z'd to get the car as low as possible. No bags! This is really the way to go if you can afford it. Good luck!
I understand, been there myself. So no problemo. I suggest that your best bet right now might be to go with the early Chevy driver's side manifold - the one with the front outlet. Or, another stock manifold that clears the steering column. Mount the motor an inch or so to the right if needed. And stick with the stock steering for now. You can always go back for R&P, etc, etc later if you want. I have done this swap this way - motor slightly offset, 56 chevy manifold, otherwise stock front end - and it works. Good luck, and the best for the holidays!
i have done the motor swap. my motor is 1" to the right side of the car. i have also posted on this alot! so if you search my posts you can probably get some of your questions answered. i know nothing about the rack and pinion stuff though.
glendale, I've seen alot of the pics you did on your swap, looks real good. What manifolds did you use??
little update, Picked up a Pass side manifold today from a 78-84 Monte or Malibu that looks like a '56 chev drivers manifold. Looks like it'll work, but looking around online found a pic of the drivers side and wonder if it'll work so I won't have to snake a pipe from the front on down and back. Its the best pic I could find, but looks like it turns back towards the block. Any thoughts??? I borrowed this pic from Glendale to give an idea.
Last I heard on Ply-Do, the owner died & it's closed. If he still around Mr Street Rod 805-522-9292 has disc conversion & front shock relocation kits.
Thanks George, I've already switched over to disc in the front, when I'm working on the motor swap I'm going to re-do the front shocks as well.
Back when I was thinking of using the R&P kit on my '48 they were saying the steering arms that the rack ends bolt to have to be heated & bent to fit, but @ the same time they have to end up @ the same angle that they were before they were bent.
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