Royal Purple break-in oil? Anyone used it?

With all the talk about lack of zinc in the reformulated oils, I went to the performance store near me to see what they had for additives and they recommended Royal Purple break-in oil.

It says it's formulated for flat tappet and roller engines and it's a break-in oil, but it's synthetic. I normally wouldn't use synthetic during the break-in period, so I'm a little leary.

Has anyone used this oil. I have a completely rebuilt 401 Buick nailhead I'm putting the finishing touches on.

Thanks

 

Some really good choices here...........
http://www.competitionproducts.com/products.asp?dept=911

 

I asked the same question on other forums a few weeks back. Couldn't find much info. I took a leap of faith and bought 5 qts. to break in the cam on my 327. Should be starting the engine in a few weeks. I can post back and let you know if my cam survives.

EDIT: Oh... one more thing... tech at RP told me it is NOT a synthetic oil when I called. He said it is the only oil they sell that uses highly refined non-synth basestock.

I used Crane cams assembly paste on my cam and lifters, and plan to fill with RP break-in oil and pre-lube before starting.

 

I have always had good luck using just conventional oil (whatever you normally run) but I go to the GM dealer and get some E.O.S.. Engine oil supplement. Never had a problem and is much cheaper than high dollar break in oils. Oh yeah, I have been an engine builder for the last six years. I have broke in everything from mild small blocks to 700 hp blown big blocks. Good luck.

 

Note from ISky:

Motor Oil Warning!! from ED ISKENDERIAN RACING CAMS

Important message regarding "break-in" protection for all high performance flat-tappet hydraulic and solid lifter camshafts.Not all motor oils are created equal. Unfortunately, when installing a high performance camshaft, just any oil will not give your new cam installation sufficient protection during the critical break-in period (the mating-in of virgin metal surfaces). This is because government regulators have mandated (as of January '04) the complete elimination of the critical anti-wear additive package (zinc/phosphorus) from all "SM" rated (street legal) motor oils to protect catalytic converters. Isky recommends the use of only the following motor oils for maximum cam lobe and lifter protection before and after the break-in period because they are the only conventional mineral based oils available with generous levels of the zinc/phosphorous additive package:

•Brad Penn Penn-Grade 1 **The very best of all in our opinion and the only oil refined from 100%

Pennsylvania crude.**Because we believe the Brad-Penn product to be superior to all other oils, we have enclosed a product brochure for your convenience.

"Special Note Regarding Synthetic Oils** Please note, Isky does not recommend the use of synthetic oils with any flat- tappet camshaft-especially during break-in. If you must use synthetic oil after break-in, there are only two brands we are comfortable recommending. They are Amzoil (Red) Racing Oil and Joe Gibbs Performance Racing Oil. Both contain zinc and phosphorous and will fare well AFTER break-in has been successfully completed. Other synthetics, especially those with very low viscosity index numbers (i.e. Ow-15, 5w-20 etc.) have very low film strength and arc not designed for, nor should they be employed in any flat-tappet cam installation. Even when you employ the correct oil, remember that camshafts receive no direct-pressurized lubrication to their cam lobes and therefore depend on the foggy mist or "splash" off the connecting rods for survival. Therefore when getting ready to start the motor up, remember to immediately rev to 2500 RPM and keep it there for the first 15-20 minutes of operation. Also, be sure the ignition is timed properly and fuel is in the carburetor bowl to avoid excessive cranking on the starter and pre-disposing your cam's installation to a high risk of premature wear.

 

I sell the RP Break in oil to speed shops in my area and they love it. I havn't heard of an oil related breakdown after using this product.

I have also been told NOT to use synthetic until the second oil change, just to make sure everything has seated properly.

Hope this helps...........

 

I use Joe Gibbs break in oil, it is high in zink

 

i use joe gibbs also. haent had a problem yet!

 

Thanks Guys.

The break-in oil was pricy, but I have it now, so I'll let you know how I like it. As said, if you read the fine print, it's not actually synthetic, but "highly" refined oil. I'd go the additive route next time, but I guess I just got paranoid.

 

It's easier to be paraniod then to be pulling the engine to swap bumpsticks.

 

i use the competion cams break in oil

 

just put in joe gibbs hot rod oil.got a case for 104.00 from my engine builder.good for flat tappet cams.

 

We had this guy at our club meeting last month. If you want to know about oils this guy is the answer.

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z2

 

GM recently reformulated their EOS - it was pulled from shelves and replaced last year. Not sure about the new stuff - think the jury is still out.

 

We use the Brad Penn break-in oil at our shop . They also make a racing oil we've used in some cars after break-in .

FWIW - I've read in a couple articles that adding STP oil treatment can add sufficient zinc content to flat-tappet engines . Says so on the bottle too ...

 

Thanks. It looks like most roads lead to Joe Gibbs or Brad Penn.

 

I recently used Valvoline Racing and EOS. Then changed it at about 350 miles and put in my regular oil, Lubrication Engineers, and an additive.

 

I have read articles and used rotella 15W40 diesel oil and had good luck, there are many choices, good luck, hotrodhill

 

Interesting to note here, no mention of Torco w/MPZ. I always thought their MPZ zinc based additive would be the best choice for things related to this subject. Makes power too vs conventional oils. Redline was a top dog as well, also plenty of zinc related compounds in their blend. Has all of that changed?

 

I'm with hotrodhill on this one, we use rotella T 15-40 in everything and never had a problem.

 

The ZDDP has ben removed from all Rotella here. Maybe you should check yours.

 

The CJ rated diesels still have around 1000-1200ppm zddp - down from about 1400ppm+ in CI.

SM auto oils run around 800ppm.

I think diesels are fine, but would use specific break-in oil with break-in additive (pick your favorite- EOS, cam mfgr, stp, etc). I'd change the oil out rather quickly - after first good warm-up cycle - because a lot of the cam grease will plug filters & run break-in oil for first few hundred.

I "waste" a lot of money on oil for a new engine changing it frequently and inspecting both oil & filter...

 

I'm not an oil guy but this stuff may be okay for flat tappet engines. It's advertisied as a racing oil which probably means it doesn't have all the normal detergents but it also says it has zddp in it. Any opinions? $3.99 a quart and in stock at Autozone.

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50

 

Yes, the VR1 is supposed to be fine. Interesting reading on their "what is zinc" link...

 

Royal Purple is supposed to have a lot of molybdenum in it. Some oil people consider moly to be to abbrasive and cause early bearing failure. The one thing RP has going for it,is, it has proven to make horsepower. But, as a break in oil does that really matter?