Remember Remember the November BANGER MEET!!!

An old machinist friend told me how he drilled cranks back in the 30's and 40's when he raced. He spotted the crank with a center drill on the journals at the angle he wanted the drill bit to go, from one journal to the other. Then he set this center mark on a pin on the drill press table directly under the quill and clamped the crank so it could not move. This held the crank on the axis the hole needed to be on to get from one journal to the other. Then it was just a matter of drilling with aircraft length drills toward the opposing center mark. Takes big balls, I'd experiment on a junk crank first!

 

Crank drilling was covered in the early issues of the S O S S magazine. S O S S has a list of articles at their Web page. Google Scalded Dog Speed parts and then go to S O S S home for the index of articles then find some one with the issue you want. They do sell back issues. In the articles they tell you the proper angles for "A" and "B" engines.

 

Besides, while you have it on a bench, it's easier to check your mains for wear, and adjust shims accordingly.

 

You will find it easier if you remove the throttle assembly from the rear of the block first

 

I put out a new banger thread on the message board but should probably have
put it here!!
Dont know how to move it but please look at: banger thoughts HAL JAG. on the message board.
Thanks. T.

 

I bean working on the Bonneville Banger...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306570

I plopped the body on last night... and boy does it look good!

Sam

 

I was able to fire up my banger 2 weeks ago for the first time, is it possible to hook it up to a 1970's Bronco 9" rearend? I have a 1933 B model banger with the original 4 spead transmission from a 1 1/2/ ton truck.

 

Good luck Sam,Keep us posted.
.

 

Were the winfield heads (the originals) painted red and yellow, and was it common to run one manufactures head and anothers intake/carb.

 

Hey BLUTO, Good to see you're back again. Haven't really seen too much of you since Bonneville. Hope everything went great. Really good to see your HAL pics. I've been wanting to get moving on mine, but been just too broke. I can't begin to imagine how much $$$ it's gonna cost. I do wonder how to take care of the cartridge fire issue. I don't plan to race it in any catagory that would require it to be in 'original' configuration. Could the 'cartridge' space be filled and then re-threaded for a new plug in a better location? There is just of little space in the chambers with those huge valves. Could you explain that comment about BB chevy valves? Are they smaller that the original valves used? And the HAL DO i've got certainly does have cracks. See pics. Gonna require a lot of welding surgery.

 

Yes and You can use any combination that turns YOU on.

 

M_e

I had two Chambers that were a problem. Had those welded and the seats welded up too all at once.Yes much smaller valves!

Before you go further you need to get this in to be welded....... It may not make it thru the process. Then project over.

Everytime you weld on one of these heads you run the risk that it will be the end of it. Honest.

I don't think there's enough HAL guys here to really get into all of it.

It's bad enough I think out loud here on this 5-main motor

I think I am posting this stuff to show the process of doing something no one else ever has. Just to show what you have to consider. Hoping that translates into some projects here.

 

I don't know if this is helpful, but on my Horning/Fisher 12 port GMC head I had the same cartrage fire plug issue. I tapped the small hole into the chamber for a 10mm plug. 1/2 inch reach fit the H/F head just fine. The plugs are avalable in lots of ranges used in motorcycles. Then I just ran it in a normal manner

 

Bluto,
If the 10mm plug thing is a viable solution for your cartrage fire issue, they also make 10mm plugs with 3/4" reach. That is what I'm using in my overhead. Motorcycle plugs too. I also found out that some of the heat ranges were used in Ferrari F-40's. The plugs I use have a crush washer, not a taper seat.

 

Bluto and / or M_E,

Looking at the cam in the picture above, Are the cams hollow?
Do they carry oil to the cam lobes?
How much oil preasure do they run?
If not, what are the holes in the cam lobes for?
If they are oil feed hole, how do they maintain oil preasure?
Sorry for the 100 questions, the pictures have peaked my curiosity.
.

 

Yup 10mm long reach plugs are what I am planning.

As to holes in the cam ...... without em the buckets would stick pretty quick Our valves point down I know this isn't the way "God intended"
to many here but it's what we are stuck with as HAL'rs

HAL's don't use Ford oil pumps for much. If I don't have enough flow or pressure I just add to the pumps stages The dry sump tank sits between the front frame horns.

My motor has very little to do with Ford stuff. In fact much less than even many HALs. Much of the Ford'isms don't apply.

I am working with blocks that were never finished. Never run. And never had a HAL on em.

Most things I'm doing have nothing to do with any other motors except for the "way of" and "why" I'm doing them.

One thing if the ports were not so damn big this thing could really make some power.

 

I am running one. You will need to get a puller to lift the pinion out of the diff, unless you plan to dismantle the diff, which is the hard way to do it. Also you will have to modify the angle of the bottom of the shifterwhere the front of the rod connects, unless you are building a left hand drive model. It will work eventually.

 

CrazD

You really need a tank twice the size of it's oil content....... Dry sump systems pump as much air as oil and the extra room lets the air escape easier. Please remember you need a large vent too and a big puke can that also is pretty well vented. If you mess this up the mess you clean up will not be fun. Too small a tank your going to find oil everywhere. Maybe on you. Look at tank designs there are lots of good ideas out there for baffles and devices to kindda knock the air out of the oil.

You'll need front and rear pick-ups really and 3-stage pump will be better.

You can get shrink tube to cover your -10 lines (use nothing smaller) making them unshinny.

Pick a pump design that allows you to change pump stages easy. You may have to experiment with them to get everything correct.

Please don't try to use a cooler or oil filter on the pick-up side. ONLY on your pressure side. It is waaaaaay too easy to starve the pump pick-up stages

 

Sorry one cup-0-coffee

Don't try to run a DRY SUMP off the cam.

You'll not get the volume you need. Pumps need to be driven in tunable ratio and 1/2 engine speed isn't really good. It will work but it's more a transfer pump than dry sump.

Oh I KNOW........ people will start posting 'My engine.........''

Don't kid yourself it's not working like it should.

If you are running a transfer pump off the cam you don't need as much room for air in the tank. You won't or don't have the volume.

 

Bluto,
Thanks for the info. It is too late to think of how this will change my plans.

I will sleep on it and weigh my opptions in the morrow.

It must be tomorrow for you.
I must got to sleep now so that I may be useful at work.
.

 

Just out of curiosity, what pump are/were you using in your current engine?

 

Bill,
I'm using a stock pump modified for preasure.

I was looking at Sac Vintage Ford cat. last night and noticed that they sell a V-8 pump modified for preasure. Does anyone have any experience with one of these?
What are the options?

 

This is a rebuild kit for an MGB

They cost $25-35 get the one for a 5-main

They aren't big Work good

Why can't you spin up a billet pump and press in a new shaft? They are keyed

They make a lot of volume and pressure in many of my motors.

 

Bluto,
Are you running that at cam speed?

 

The ring is 1.598 OD and 1.370 tall Shaft is .497 OD

These are done with a cheapo electronic caliper. and the parts are near freezing but you get the idea.

These little pumps really work well......

I've been thinking about stacking them too

If you made the pump so the rotor was in the bottom of the pan (Tom) it would be pushing all the time and instantly primed(tom)

Just a hint to my ol' Buddy TV .......... don't crowd me folks....

You knew some good could come of this BS!!!

 

Crazo Not as a DRY SUMP PUMP

Yes as a pressure pump

I have a cooler two filters and 12 feet of -10 line 45lbs hot idle 20-50 oil
80-90 running

Me likes pressure and a good wedge

 

Back to the HAL ......A'HOLE set the head up for 2.125 valves but I can get 1.90s in there .........

 

I'm currently using 2 converted V8 pumps. Have used 4 in total over the years. They are the early or "long " shaft pumps. I like the internal pressure relief valve. I have made slight modifications to the springs and 1 idles at 20 lb. the one in the stroker idles at 30 lb.... A stock fresh pump makes 80 lb.. pressure. It is quite a thrill to fire your fresh engine and have the needle jump up to 80 lb. gets you looking for leaks. 50 lb. springs are readily available. I have purchased direct and thru Taylor Engine for same price. The last 2 I had my cores rebuilt, cores purchased at swap meets. I can get you the name and number for the guy that converts them or just call Taylor's.

 

pic from my big day at the dyno.