caution: words. lots of em. ok.. I have the shop manual, have searched HAMB, and the great google.. time to ask the great wise people instead of a web crawler...<O (ps I am more a chevy man and not so familiar with these ford things.) <Ocar: '64 lincoln 'vert. (more damn vacuum hoses wires and crap than I care to mention stuffed under that dash) Problem : wont crank using ignition switch (hotwired it cranks) My steps thus far: I have dutifully followed the repair manual and have it narrowed down to either the ignition switch (which I have already replaced, (but you know it could be faulty)) or the main wire that runs from the starter relay to the switch or from the starter relay to the neutral safety switch (also new). <OSo, what would I like to know?: i am tired of chasing ghosts. I would like to know 'what wires do what' on the a$$ end of the connector to the ignition. My shop manual has several different schematics showing the ignition, but I cant find where it details the plug on the back of the ignition I would just like to wire the ignition for on/off & push button start.<O I have a few of the wires figured out, but this ignition doesnt match what I find for typical ford ignitions on the web. <O This is where everybody asks: can it crank?. Yes. I have jumpered assorted wires and gotten it to crank without stopping. i.e. I have to pull the ground to get it to stop. So, making a big circle with way too many words: how can I wire this thing with an on/off ignition switch, and push button starter? thankya, thankyaverymuch...
I can't see Lincolns being that much different for the crank circuit. Ford uses a Red with Blue stripe wire as power to actuate the starter relay. Ignition power is Red with Green stripe to the coil BUT it has a Pink Resistor wire on spliced in it under the dash off the ignition switch. The starter relay will have a Brown wire on the starter terminal side of the relay that gives the ignition a full 12 volts durng crank Beyond the ignition switch and neutral safety switch another trouble spot on this vintage of Ford is the through firewall connectors. Often they just get dirty and cruddy and give a bad connection. Not sure if that helps.
thanks, For this particular model, that red w/ blue is to/from the neutral safety switch. Black with green stripe is acc. Big Yellow is main power. Green/red, red/green, I have those plus 1 maybe 2 more going into the plug into the back of the ignition switch. (need to look again, always think ya, Ill take pics before I tear it apart.;. always find reasons not to take picts). Sounds like I need to find the pink resistor wire I have seen that in some of the occasional schematics. Ill check some of the other connectors. With the convertible, it makes it quite the expedition. like i said though... just wanna on/off and a push a button. <O</O
I have done a push button start on of all things a Mustang II for my sis in law. The crank contact on the switch was bad but the ignition still worked. So you turned the key to "run" which also unlocked the column and I used a big Allan Bradley momentary push button and wired it to the starter relay wire. You just need to prove out the wiring/ NSS from the dash or run a new one to the relay and make sure you have good wire to the coil. Another thing about the pink resistance wire is they are a soft rubbery braided wire and can be broken easily, they are quite long to get the correct resistance and Ford was known to wrap them in a cloth braided tube to protect them ( like the stuff that is used in hot areas under hood) so it may be hard to see it.
Bishop, I also have a '64 Lincoln ragtop. When I got my car it was (hot?) wired as you describe, using a toggle switch to crank it over. That was several years ago, but I'll see if I can find the information I used when I put it back together so I could use the ignition switch. Can't help you today, since it's late here and I'm tired. It sounds like you already checked this, but the neutral safety switch can be a pain on these cars. The shifter bushing wears out, leaving play in the shifter. The neutral switch itself can get pretty worn out too. FWIW, info and pics on my car are here: http://members.cox.net/wagtopman . - John
Hi, I run a shop in Rockford IL and all we do is the 61-65 lincoln verts. A really common thing on these is the neutral saftey switch either goes bad or is out of adjustment. Its on the base of the steering column by where it passes through the firewall. Does the top operate? Thats also dependent on the neutral switch. So if that works while in park then its not the neutral switch. Just a couple of ideas. These are great cars but they can be a bit much with all the aging wiring and vacuum lines. Oh i see stu beat me to the punch on the neutral switch thing. On my personal car I just jumpered the switch with a short pice of wire and two blade connectors. If memory serves there are two circuits there one that runs the backup lights and the other that runs everything else (cranking, the top etc)
echo on the neutral safety switch, and some encouraging words on all that vacuum tubing. i had a '64 connie a couple of years ago and the PO had pulled a bunch of the dash tubing loose putting in a hoopty stereo system, causing no end of running trouble due to new vacuum leaks (DUH) and then took the car off the road. i pulled all that hi-watt shit out and carefully reconnected all the tubes, they're color coded like wiring, and SHEBANG everything worked like a freaking charm. 44 year old shit and all! don't be freaked out by the vacuum system, it's easier than it looks. man now i miss that car too.....freakin Deathmobile! RAMMING SPEED!
thanks guys.... and yup, neutral safety switch has been replaced and hotwired... may have another weekend of decent weather here, so time to go out and see what i can get done... thanks
Keep us posted with if/how you solved the problem. I have a '64 hard top as well and have the same problem. Thanks for posting this question
OK, took longer than expected, but here's some info: Starting circuit: black wire from battery + to ammeter, then black/yellow to "B" terminal on ignition sw. This is your main power feed, and is hot anytime the battery is hooked up. When key is turned to "Start" position, switch applies power to red/blue wire from "S" terminal on ignition switch. This goes to neutral safety switch, then red/blue wire to "S" term on starter solenoid. Car should then crank over. - John
well, last week i had to have had the hot from the coil wrong, because it would spitt and sputter only if the starter button was on... thanks for the info homeinct, and i will go check it out again...
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