Trailer tech

Been sitting here trying to figure out how to contribute to tech week by mining existing picture files instead of doing something new and think I may have struck fools gold........Trailer tech.

So before the trailer bashers start, wanna say this is about how to cheaply acquire a functional tool that will serve all manner of project cars. It’s not something that will protect billet wheels from water spots and impress gold chainer friends. It’s the ultimate parts chasing accessory and return-favor generator. You could even use it to bring a 32 ford project home........

So what am I talking about? Old race car trailers. Surely you’ve seen them, those old dilapidated twin axles that trade for a couple hundred bucks. Beat up and all manner of ugly. And you may be thinking that’s not really what you wanna put your pride & joy on, even for a short trip. Because if your lowered ride’s rocker panels somehow survive loading, you’d really hate to leave it alongside the highway because the POS trailer failed.

Trailers are like cars, there’s 100 ways to get there and a lot of em are right. This is just documentation of the one way I got there, surely some parts will horrify other trailer users. As you continue reading, keep in mind this one has around 10K loaded miles since the redo, nary a complaint.

So this is where it starts, your basic $300 trailer with a 16' deck. Top rail is used cast iron pipe, complete with threads in one spot and lots of dents. Sweet! This trailer is 79" between the fenders and I wouldn’t go any narrower if your hobby involves fullsize cars.



Step one, looks like we’ll be needing an axle. Yikes! Bet it was cool looking while it happened.



First lesson learned was how standard trailer axles are. If it’s been made in the last 25 years (with trailer parts), chances are any local shop has one in stock, everywhere I called had everything. They’re standard widths, standard hubs, standard lotsa stuff (including leaf spring lengths). You buy an axle, the spring pads come loose so you just weld em on at the correct spot for your trailer. This trailer uses 3500lb axles.

In this trailer’s case it lacked brakes. For budget reasons the good used axle had the bearings re-packed and was moved to the rear position. The new axle was purchased with electric brakes and went in the front position. Everything I read on the net said if you only brake one axle, it should be the front. You should use a breakaway kit, and may be DOT required to use one in your state. I didn’t for budget reasons, and not knowing if I’d use it often enough to have problems with battery life. Hindsight, shoulda used one, this sucker is constantly on the move. Even with just the single axle braking, it stops with assurance.



OK, now how to get low cars up the ramps. In this case, size matters, and yes, I did run out of tubing for the crossbraces These were bumped to 6 ft because they’ll fit in my truck with the tailgate closed, but they also run just fine sitting on the front of the trailer, under the loaded car. There’s no ramp rack on this one, and I didn’t want to add hanging stuff under the back for dragging/clearance reasons. With the extended ramps low cars like camaros and vettes drive right on, and the slope reduction takes a lot of drama out of solo loading, even in the rain.



Now onto a feature that is hotly debated among my friends. The risers that the tires ride on. It came with em and were slated to be the first thing removed but they’ve been flat out awesome. People act horrified that I’m raising the load height by 3 inches, but hell, most of my cars are lowered a few inches anyway, so it’s a wash, right? And the risers make strapping a low car down SOOOO much easier. They also mean a lot of cars can open a door, despite the rail height. If you’re wondering what to do about cars that can’t open, you go out the window, scissor jack that side of the car up a few inches, open the door & close window, shut door, let car down. Kind of a hassle, but that’s the price of cheapness.

Now onto the wheels and tires. I obeyed one rule and broke another, but seem to have escaped consequence. The obeyed rule was trailer tires, the real deal, not car tires or load rated truck tires. Got a discount set of Load Stars on the auction site, mounted em at home and it pulls beautifully. The disobeyed rule was the rims, they’re shank mags which you’re never supposed to use on a trailer. In this case they were free from a buddy on the condition I didn’t paint the trailer orange with rebel flags and an 01. My logic said they’d been on a half ton chevy truck since 1978 and have probably proven themselves sturdy, and it’s within the stamped load rating. They get a torque check before any lengthy trip, no loose lugs yet. Plus they match my bitchin Jon Schneider mini mullet.



Speaking of tires, you need a fifth for reliability. Remember, it’s not about the trailer, it’s about whatever car is on the trailer, you don’t wanna leave that car alongside the highway even if you could care less about the trailer under it. I had an old axle laying around with the correct bolt pattern and this is my solution. There are many solutions, but you NEED a spare affixed to the trailer. The spare can be a cheap passenger car tire.



Along with spares come jacks, chock blocks, and a lug wrench. Think self contained. My solution involves a $3 swap meet toolbox with 1/8" plate for support. The jack is a GM FWD car scissor jack that the junkyard wanted another $3 for. Small and will do the job (including lifting the loaded car for door opening). Add a couple short lengths of 2x4, a breaker bar with lug sized socket, and you’re in business.



Now let’s move onto lights and wiring. Most states (or federal?) require an amber side marker for something this length. I scored a free set off a mitsubishi sedan and added metal tabs to mount em in. At a later date added amber lights on the fender edges so it has lights that stick out past the truck pulling it. Good for tracking in the mirrors, and oncoming visibility. The actual tail lights are a pair of heavy truck “delivery lights” like you see for sale at swap meets across the nation $10-15 a pair. FAR superior quality to most made-for-trailer lights, and they have backup bulbs. Mount em high instead of low for visibility purposes. In another couple years, I would go with LED, but today’s prices on quality LEDs is too high for this ole junker. Another wise move in hindsight was a heavy duty vinyl jacketed 7 pin connector, a couple of loan-outs have managed to scuff the jacket but the wiring is untouched by pavement. I also made a new wire loom, fully soldered. Lights are reliable and bright.

 

There’s a few other details to address, like tie downs. Mine had a nice D ring at the back but nothing up front, so I welded in some old U-bolts for tie down and winching points. My “winch” is a come-a-long. Kinda sweaty sometimes but gets the job done. It also had a busted trailer jack, the fixed kind. Personally think those are more prone to damage, so it got a rotating jack from the local harbor freight.

Next step, beautification. Extra thanks to Uncle Scoob for hooking it up with real paint at a fake paint price. It’d still be ugly without him, because there’s a definite price limit to a paint job I’ll step on. And thanks to my old neighbors, for stopping by with nice things to say instead of complaints (that’s the front yard). And thanks to my friends, for talking me out of the trailer-lee scheme.





Let’s not forget reflectors or reflective tape. You NEED them, all 4 sides, that includes the front. Never know when it may spend an overnight on the street unhooked. I couldn’t find a good price on reflective tape, so went with adhesive reflectors instead. Again, the auction site stepped up with a seller sitting on a case of reflectors with water damaged packaging, $20 got enough to do this trailer, and my wheel-giving friend’s trailer. Get extra, because once you install what you think it will need, you’ll walk around and find angles without reflectors visible. That’s where the extra come in . Sorry for the non traditional junker on the trailer, but it's the only pic I have on file after the reflectors, yellow on front, red on back, around 20 total. Scout's honor it'll be transporting an extremely traditional project very soon.




So there it is- warts, dents, and booger welds accounted for. Under a thousand bucks all said and done. Right or wrong it’s been in 7 states behind a handful of trucks and carried dozens of cars without complaint. And it's light enough a rider mower (with homemade ball mount) can move it around for clean mowing, although people will stare.

If any HAMBr’s wanna post their own open trailer rehab projects in this thread, I’d love ya for it. Not in a hugs & kisses man-love kinda way, more like a hearty backslap & guffaw kinda way. Get your mind out of the gutter.

Thanks for readin, hope it was worth the time.

 

Why did you put the pipe along the side and create an obstacle? A floor jack, which most have, is ideal for a loaded trailer and goes in the truck bed. Another way for a tire holder is a piece of channel/plate with 2 bolts welded in the proper place for the bolt pattern. If you're using a 6 or 7 pole plug your hot wire will charge the battery. The break away requirment is a federal law not just a state law. But I've never been stopped for it to be checked. I've used car and truck tires exclusively on my car trailer for over 35,000 mi with no problems. I'm using 10 plys on it now that are a match for my trucks tires, so if by chance I have a second flat before I can get the first repaired I still have a spare. Both truck and trailer are 8 lug.
Good job on using what you had and keeping it a budget trailer.
Just checked back and saw you request for other trailer pics. I don't have any of mine before it was redone. It started out in 91 as a 16 footer and I used it that way until the winter of 06/07. That winter I cut it and added 8 ft to it and added the sleeper on the front. Because of the added weight I went from 3500 lb axles and single axle 10" brakes to 6500 lb axles with 12" brakes on both axles. Since these pics were taken I've also built a headach rack to protect the back of the sleeper. The empty weight went from 1975 lb to 3700 lbs. Pulls like a dream even at 80/85 mph with a full load.

 

Thanks for the writeup, maybe the trailer haters will stay away. I'll take some pics of the one I built out of an old travel trailer and post later..

Brian

 

The pipe was already there, it's structural since this trailer is made of heavy angle iron underneath, not box tubing. Clean sheet I wouldn't put it there either, but didn't wanna delve into redoing it structurally.

 

Great step by step on how to do it on a budget. I rented dollies and trailers enough times that it would have paid for a truck and trailer!
After borrowing a "reliable" trailer from a friend to retrieve my 29 Tudor from Niagra Falls area I cussed the whole way back and decided to buy my own. 2 Blowouts and a seized bearing made my mind up quickly. Having your own trailer is invaluable and comes in handy as a return favor generator like you mentioned.

 

Oh. I didn't read it right I thought you had put it there, therefore the question.

 

Thanks! Know what you mean, spent too much rental money for rentals that didn't meet my own maintenance standards. Cause MY STUFF rides on those pieces of junk, ya know? This isn't a perfect solution, but at least I can trust it, and control it's maintenance.

 

Just a suggestion

buy yourself 4 Trailer Tires..they have different load ratings than car tires, (better)
have stiffer side walls. Carlisle Tires are very nice for towing

I have an old Drag Specalties Trailer. the nice thing about it.. no steel floor in the center ( nice if you need to work on the car that is on the trailer and also gives you another place to tie down).. The Deck is flat and the fenders are low. No side obstuctions, and no rail all the way around..
and use the electric brakes on both axles.

look in my profile, i think there is a picture of mine with my 28 tudor on it, in my picture
albums

sweet sleeper idea phat rat

 

Thanks to the HAMB for letting this into the tech week sticky. I know it's nowhere near a top pick, and not very traditional, so I appreciate just being included.

Von Rigg- agreed, trailer tires are the way to go. That's why there's 4 of em.

 

sorry Shifty..they looked like Car Tires..my bad.

 

Thanks Von Rigg Fink. That sleeper has paid for itself in the two summers it's been on. I've got less than $500 in it and on my two western parts trips I spent 17 nights in it. So at the price of motel rooms I saved a lot.

 

I always like the way you explain things in a fun backyard way. Posts are enjoyable to read, and I look forward to your ideas.

 

The last trailer I built, I got 4 damaged 6500 lb axles from a trailer sales, one hub burned up on each one, and welded the good ends together to make two axles. Bought new springs and U bolts, and brake assemblies from Nothern tool. Hubs came with the axles. The main frame rails were made from 5" angle iron salvaged from a remodel job in a redneck bar. crossmembers were made from 2" T iron salvaged from a factiry building being torn down. I bought 60' of 2" angle iron for the top rail and braces. Tongue and hitch couple came from a housetrailer salvage. I bought 4 2x10 by 10, and 4 2x10 by 8 for the deck. Bought a used car hauler ramp, damaged, and cut it in half for aluminum ramps. Paint was several part cans left over from jobs, mixed together, and sprayed on. Wheels and tires came from a pickup I junked. fenders made from scrap steel plate. total investment was $480 plus 2 weekends work. It has about 50,000 miles on it now. It hauls whatever will fit on the deck.

 

My trailer's been in the family since I was a tot. Dad got it years ago in trade for some work. It's been all over creation, and overhauled a number of times. I've done the last couple...

I agree with the suggestion for trailer tires, but I've had and seen too many catastrophic failures of Carlisle tires to endorse them for anything. I'm running Green Ball tires, Towmaster series. They're my first set of trailer radials, and I'll likely never buy another set of bias ply's they pull so smooth. Many folks will try to talk you out of it, but let me tell ya, having them computer spin balanced really does make a difference, both in how smoothly it tows, and the longevity of the tires.

I've got a 5k hand winch on there, that's pulled many old derelicts up onto the bed. The toolbox is one I got out of a scrap pile, with some reconditioning work, it's fantastic. I'd like to add a car battery, and a little electric 5k winch down low, to move the toolbox to the front of the trailer, but it's been doing fine where it's at for several years.

I had to store my Bronco on it for a while at the house, space is at a premium there with the neighborhood nazi's writing tickets for parking in the yard.

 

I love trailer tech. A trailer is an incredibly useful tool, and every rodder should have one, and a truck. How else are you going to get your projects and parts home?

I need to rebuild my trailer in a bad way. Wiring is shot, I don't think the brakes ever worked, the tires are shot, and it needs a paint job.

How did you prep yours for paint? There was a lot of rust and flaking paint...sand blasting would be a great idea, but pretty spendy wouldn't it?

-Brad

 

Thanks Suburban! I try to have fun with everything involving cars, glad it comes thru.

Phat rat that is a cool sleeper, I was eyeing one at a swap meet recently but figured it would be a better broiler than sleeping compartment. Is yours all insulated and such?

Brad I attacked it with a DA, some acid rust converter, and a liberal dose of "I can't make it look worse" attitude. The last being the most important. Believe it or not the remaining paint on the fenders scraped off with a putty knife. Note to trailer builders- wipe oil off fenders before painting

 

This last go round, it got the wire brush, and some rattle can. I had to get it ready for a trip, and was short on time.

Next go-round, I'm thinking of some implement paint. Tractor Supply has some. Either Ford Blue, or Kubota Orange.

I haven't decided whether I want to take it to have it blasted, or just wire wheel the rust off this next time. We'll see what kind of prices they come up with when the time comes.

If I can get my 68 put together and sold in the next couple of months, I may pull the trailer in the shop and tear it down this winter.

 

Clever stuff and a good tech post.

Nothin' prettier than seeing Sweetie crest the hill with truck and trailer while you're waiting patiently for the rescue wagon.


Anyway, here's the 16' open deck trailer I owned up to about 4 years ago.

Paid $900. new with one axle braked and one not.
Imo, a single braked axle doesn't cut it.
You need both axles with brakes.
All the single one does on a heavy brake application is lock up and squeal the tires.
More noise than stopping going on.

Anyhoo, this first pic shows the aluminum ramps.
Found them at an aluminum salvage place.
Apparently two of many walk on platforms for an industrial building - steam plant, manufacture etc.
They are 18" x 72" and have some additional aluminum channel braces added on.

Ramp storage is under the car as you can see and one 3/8" bolt with washers and nylock nut to bolt each one to the floor so it doesn't vibrate off the trailer while in transit.

The rusty looking DOM tubes in the painted swivel tubes that are welded to the trailer to pick up the front of the ramps that have similar steel DOM tubes keep the front of the ramp from flipping up and out.




This later pic shows the ramps set up to stay on the swivels - the tubes have safety pins one end and welded on larger small piece of DOM to keep the tubes from sliding out the other end.



Bad part here are the terrible aerodynamics from the flat ramps.
Ramps similar to Shiftys are the way to go and a few friends have made them with a total of 4 cross angle bars and heavy duty expanded metal.

These can travel in the up position and no probs aerodynamically speaking.

Hard to see, but shown here are the large chain repair links that bolt on through drilled holes in the vertical angle pieces near front center and allow convenient hookup for the tie-down straps.



Along with that, a 1600# boat winch with 16' of flat strap shown.
Quicker by far than using a chain comealong and easy to hand crank a 3200# dead runner up the ramps.

Easy enough to extend the flat strap with some 1/2" rope tied to the hook.

The 20' box trailer I'm now running has an 1800# boat trailer winch with about 30' of cable.
I have some snatch blocks if I need additional power, but so far, not required.

On the right front is a trailer box for blocks, rope, a few tools, tie-downs etc.
Since most jackknifes happen with the trailer off to the left where you can see it, no probs with a slightly shorter jacknife capabability to the right.

Also not seen, a spare tire mount from 1" x 2" rectangular tubing with a couple of about 12" all-threads to bolt the trailer spare to the right front side in front of the fender.


Tires?

I ran a couple sets that were bought new on my Ranger.
BFGs in both cases and the load rating was plenty high.

My present box trailer with its 7000# gross hasn't been overloaded and in fact has had two tire failures running empty at about 3000# and two blowouts on cold desert mornings running about 60 per and 5500# - 6000#.

Chinese tires in all cases.

I'm just about ready to buy some pickup tires, F-150 size and I'll have some excess in the load rating dept.

Far as wheels go, standard Chevy 1/2 ton pickup wheels on the open trailer and standard white spokers on the box trailer.

I've had to re-torque the box trailer wheels several times, but from what I'm told it's to be expected.

I see mag wheels on lots of trailers, haven't heard of any probs and in fact some trailers are sold with them.

I you have mags with a high enough load rating I don't see why they can't be used.

 

I like C9s use of chain repair links for the tie points. Simple & easy

 

Forgot to add, that every couple of years I bought a gallon of oil based enamel paint and rolled the wooden deck.
What paint was left over got used as touchup paint in some areas.

Trailer didn't look half bad when I sold it.

 

Trailer wheels see a lot more side loading. That's why automotive wheels aren't always up to snuff. Load rating's only part of the consideration.

I found some cool slotted mags that I wanted to put on mine, but the folks at Redneck Trailer suggested that I stick with the steelies. http://www.redneck-trailer.com/

 

I haven't slept in it in real hot weatheronly 60/70's. But I did sleep in it in freezing weather. I was in western Nebraska this May 2nd when a snow storm hit that closed all the roads including I-80 and I-90. I do have a 12V fan to move air around in it. It has some insulation in it, but not a lot, just what was in it from the factory. I also have an 8000 lb winch on it.

 

I really like my box trailer and have posted on it before.

One bad point is, they tend to get used for a storage shed so you gotta watch it.

I just unloaded enough 3' x 10' sheets for one and a half carports by myself one hot afternoon.
Had em stored in there then needed the trailer.

Woulda been easier to just shoot myself in the foot....

 

You old guys dont read very well do you ?????????
Dave

 

ELKHART/MIDDLEBURY/BRISTOL --and surrounding areas-- THE R.V. CAPITOL OF MID-AMERICA. LOTSA R.V. DISCOUNT SALVAGE--SUPPLIES-- 'OUTLETS' THERE!
[wheels, tires, lites, trim, take-off-stuff etc] READ-THAT-BARGAINS!
[plus shipshewana for SHWMBO---[she-who-must-be-obeyed]!
thanx red ryder

 

Most slot mags I've handled have been really beefy. As long as they're not unilug, good lugs & washers, and there's no flakiness with the hub/studs/etc- I'd run em with confidence.

A lot of trailers come equipped with aluminum outlaw/modular wheels, but I'm fairly sure they recommend a cone seat lug like an OEM aluminum wheel. My shank lugs have not been a problem, but then again I could be misinformed about what's right/wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.

 

X3 on the Carlise tires. I bought a pair but threw the caps off of both of them. I too have a pair of Green Balls and several other types. I like the Green Ball. I was also disatisfied with a pair I bought from WallyWorld. One of those threw the cap. I guess I am hard on them but my trailer is a little bigger.



Also keep an eye on your tires. I found this half way though our last trip. Glad I was able to change it before it threw the cap.

You'll notice I carry two spares. Nothing like sitting on the side of the road with two flats as I have seen where the front tire gets taken out and then the rear one goes too. I'm not leaving my trailer on the side of the road. I also carry a set of bearings and retaining hardware. I grease and check pressures and grease the axles at the start of every trailering excursion. The Dexter Axles on mine are greased like a boat trailer through the center to the bearing and forcing the grease through the bearing. The retaining hardware wasn't very common when I bought it hence the spare hardware.

 

True enough on the dual spares.

When I blew one tire on my box trailer during the last move to Arizona from California we still had 200 miles to go.

Since my Ace in the Hole was gone, we stopped at a Barstow tire shop and bought a new one.

When I blew another tire going to the Surprise Nostalgia Drags last November I put that spare on and since we were about 50 miles out we elected to return home.

I had a couple of spare tires for the roadster in the trailer, but they would have been used only as a last resort.
Load rating would have been ok, but driving about 45 would have been necessary imo....


(Trailer and roadster both run the same Ford 4 1/2" bolt circle pattern.)

 

I also carry two spares. I have used both on more than one trip.