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***TECH - "Z"ing a Model A frame***

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by striper, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    I've posted these pictures on here before on my build thread. I have had good feedback in the past so I figure they are probably worth a repost during Tech Week. Besides, I need more tools :D.

    This is how I "Z"d the frame on my 28A modified. I wanted the frame to look nice because it would be exposed. I wanted it to look "factory-ish". So I desided to fabricate the C-section shape out of flat stock. I've seen nice jobs with mitre cut RHS but it just wasn't going to cut it on this car.

    I originally calculated a 13" Z but good judgement got the better of me and I went for 10", still a significant step.

    I drew up a couple of versions before I finally decided on this one. I cut out a template from 3mm(1/8") MDF

    [​IMG]

    Then I cut 2 pieces from 5mm plate with the gas axe.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I found for the top and bottom sections of the C channel the easiest way to form them was cold. I used 40 x 5mm flat bar and gently tweaked the curves in by hand between the just open jaws of my vice.

    [​IMG]

    I lined up the top and bottom "webs" with the side piece corner to corner. That gave me a nice fillet to weld in on bothe sides. It meant that on the outside I needed to grind very little of the weld away to match the radius on the original frame rails. It also gave me the correct frame rail width of about 45mm (depending where you measure)

    [​IMG]

    Having calculated that I wanted a 10" Z I needed to relocate the rear crossmember to it's new position. I already had my frame tacked to my frame jig. I made a fixture to hold the rear crossmeber exactly 10" above it's original position. A lot of tacking and careful measuring is needed at this stage.

    [​IMG]

    You can see above that I have cut the crossmember free and positioned it on top of the fixture. You can also see that I have stagger cut the frame rail to make for a stronger joint.

    Once I had the crossmember firmly positioned and the frame tacked to the jig it was just a matter of joining the dots.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The welds were ground flush and fish plates were added to the inside of both rails. The rails were then fully boxed.

    [​IMG]

    Above is how my frame came back from the sandblasters. I boxed the rails just after this pic was taken.

    [​IMG]

    The frame painted.

    It is currently going together (very slowly). It should be on its wheels in a couple of weeks.

    If anyone has any questions about what I did, go ahead and ask. I find it hard to remember each step as I'm typing and inserting pics. I'm sure I have only given a brief description of the steps, but you know what they say about pictures....

    Pete
     
    Last edited: Sep 28, 2008
  2. A9X
    Joined: Nov 1, 2006
    Posts: 13

    A9X
    Member
    from Australia

    Good work
     
  3. ridin dirty
    Joined: Jul 6, 2008
    Posts: 551

    ridin dirty
    Member

    Nice job !!!!!!!!! :cool:
     
  4. Perfect timing! For me, that is. I started working on my '29 frame this week and this is the next thing i have to do. Thanks
     

  5. joeycarpunk
    Joined: Jun 21, 2004
    Posts: 4,446

    joeycarpunk
    Member
    from MN,USA

    Excellent job and tech post.
     
  6. Would an outline of the templates, drawn on a large piece of paper, be for sale?...:D
     
  7. 29 bones
    Joined: Sep 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,138

    29 bones
    Member
    from so cal

    wow!! great job, love this tech post
     
  8. Hot Rod Bob
    Joined: Mar 21, 2007
    Posts: 1,146

    Hot Rod Bob
    Member
    from T-ville Ky

    Nice job excellent tech great photos!
     
  9. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Yeah, I suppose I could send a piece of paper overseas.

    Two things. It's not that hard to do it yourself and also you need to be sure it works for your application, i.e. wheelbase, spring over / in front / behind axle, ride height etc.

    So, If you want an outline, PM me your address but do the figuring out first.

    Pete
     
  10. KCsledz
    Joined: Jun 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,333

    KCsledz
    Member

    you made it look so easy!
     
  11. blackout
    Joined: Jul 29, 2007
    Posts: 1,327

    blackout
    Member

  12. ratster
    Joined: Sep 23, 2001
    Posts: 3,588

    ratster
    Member

  13. ALindustrial
    Joined: Aug 7, 2007
    Posts: 852

    ALindustrial
    Member

    good lookin frame you got there sir. congrats :D
     
  14. striper
    Joined: Mar 22, 2005
    Posts: 4,498

    striper
    Member

    Thanks for the kind words Al. Just looked at your graphics work...outstanding. (I used to be a graphic designer)

    Don't give it away, man.

    Pete
     
  15. Mickle29
    Joined: Jan 9, 2012
    Posts: 5

    Mickle29
    Member

    Very nice! Looking at doing the same to mine. A 29 sedan. I was thinking 10" in the rear and 4-6" in the front should be ample. Nice an low
     

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