I am going to be wet sanding my 51 in a few days. I have some 600 grit paper, but I don't know the proper technique. Should the water be running on it constantly, or do I just use a spray bottle and wet an area first? Thanks for the input.
Are you color sanding the paint or prepping for paint? If you are color sanding I would say mix up a bit of dish soap (Dawn) in a bucket and use that to rinse the sandpaper while still rinsing the car off with the hose. I think most of the guys will say to use plenty of water.
Use a wet sanding block so you dont finger f*** the snot out of it. How bad is it? could you start at 800? I would go as far as you can ( 2000 ) before you rub it out. The finer the scratch the easier it is to get it out. The less time the wheel is on the panel, the less chance for wheel marks and swirl marks. You might also look into color sanding with a DA. Go to 3M.com/automotive for some tips. Good Luck
I always start with 800 and lubricate it with some dish liquid in the water.....some guys swear by JOY, but I like DAWN.......then move up to 1000 or 1200 for a final wet sand.........it will save you a lot of buffing out and lessen any cahnce of orange peel.......I have had very good results like this... CB
Why not? I use my Hutchins Water Bug all the time. Its a random orbit wet sander. Keep plenty of water on it whether you're prepping or finishing. The water keeps the surface clean and cool and you need that in both cases, moreso in the finishing. I usually start with 800 on ROUGH areas only, then I move up to 1000 all around, 1200, 1500, 2000 and all the way up to 3000 sometimes to save on buff time. Is this base/clear or single stage? There are different approaches for the two.
To be honest its a quick coat of Rustoleum. I just need to even it out a bit. I am not looking to make it super shiny. A nice satin finish would be ideal. Thats why I was going to use 600.
Dont get me wrong. I wasnt trying to be an ass. I want it to look as good as it can, but its just a temporary coat of paint until all the body work is done.
im no body guy but that was the WRONG thing to put on there...any thing you put over it that is decent will make it lift any where its not 300% removed (yes 300 %) at least from what ive learned(the hard way)
I agree. Its going to be along while before I have all the body work done, and it looked like crap in just primer. So I rattle canned it until its ready to be totally taken down to metal and done properly.
Rustoleum? Seriously? Fill in the blank in this sentence, "Rustoleum is an ___ based paint." Think about what you've done while you strip that shit back off!
For good results on a good paint job- A lot depends on how long the paint has been drying or curing, and what the paint is. Use enough water to keep the work area free of debris that could scratch, or smear the particles back into the new paint. Some paints smear more than others. I usually just let the water slowly dribble lightly over the area I am sanding, just enough to keep the dust particles moving away from the work area. More water doesn't hurt of course. I often use a wet rag that I slowly squeeze with my left hand while I sand with my right. Sometimes I use a garden hose closed down to a very very light mist, if the paint needs more water. This is for hand sanding. If I am using an air-powered jitterbug that is really sanding down the paint quickly, I step up the mist so it is dripping quickly off the sander along with the debris. That usually keeps the work area clean enough. Don't be so stingy with the water so you are sanding in a bunch of sludge. Flow it and keep it clean for a smoother result. Pay attention to how the sanding feels. If it feels like it is going smoothly, you have enough water moving across it. If you think you feel a little scratch of dust or a tiny spec of sand every once in a while, step up the water a bit to keep it clean, and the particles washed away so as to keep it from scratching or smearing the particles back into the paint. Keep an eye on the paper. If the paper starts clogging, or collecting a paint buildup, get fresh paper, use more water, either add a little soap, or stop and give the paint more curing time. I am not an expert, but that is the way I do it, and it has worked great for me.
Good luck with that paint! it is so soft and will clog up the paper in no time. also stay away from any edge with the paper( such as the sharp body lines ) and use plenty of water and soap, normally I would not use a bucket for color sanding but for the soft paint it will keep it from clogging up so fast.
Bar of Ivory soap in the bucket and sponge with a new squeegie to wipe off and check for an even dull surface.
You guys ain't listening...it's Rustoleum! Don't waste your time. Uncatalyzed oil based cheapo enamel?
In the rain. One spring I was color sanding an old hooptie. Anyway it was warmish and started raining and I made it outside to wetsand, purrfect best paint job I ever had. I personally prefer the water to keep moveing, but I know a lot of pros that just use a bucket of water and they are far better painters than I will ever be. The tip about soapy water and a constant drip is a good one. I've seen it done that way with really good results.
Not to hijack the rustoleum answer...but it brings a question coz I'm no expert; if your jalopy were painted in the 50's and primered all over (black) in the 60's, what is the technique to sand off the primer and reviel the earlier paint...and what's the chance of the bringing any of that paint under the primer back? Inside and outside corners must be a bitch!
God this thread is going downhill in a hurry. Can we get it locked before we start talking about how to make patina?