Getting ready to put a rear main seal and better pan on the T. The pan has been bead blasted and is clean. I know I have seen the insides of pans "painted" and wondered if that would be a good idea since hot rods see periods of seasonal low use time. Even engines that get used everyday can have rust form from condensation. If yes, what is normally used to coat the inside of a pan or is it better to just leave it bare. You sure wouldn't want loose paint floating around the pan and clogging stuff up.
I don't think I've ever seen one painted inside. A baked enamel finish might hold up but I don't know of any paint that would last. Why bother? You certainly aren't going to paint the bearings or cylinder walls and they will sit as long as the pan when the car isn't in use.
GV,The only painting I have ever seen done inside an engine was in the crank/rods, timing chain and intake lifter valley area. We used the same paint/varnish that is used on electric motors. I believe it is called Glyptol and is very tough. I still have a SBC 3x2 intake that has glyptol on the underside that looks good and it was done close to 20 years ago.I don't see why it couldn't be used inside the oil pan also. It sure makes a difference in how well oil drains back to the pan and how little the oil darkens from leaching old oil/grime from the cast iron in the block.LarryTOKC
If your going to paint anything inside of an engine you better make damn sure it stays on. I can tell you horror stories of the paint coming off and clogging up the oil pump screen. The factory stuff is baked on like powder coating >>>>.
Maybe find a way to keep it dry in the winter? Or fill the darn motor to the brim for the store.... but I wouldn't risk it myself. If you are set on it, powdercoat it. Or Jet-hot or something guaranteed.
The block is painted to seal the pours in the surface of block to aid in oil flow. There would be no reason to paint the inside of a sheet metal pan unless maybe you were applying some sort of seal coat on a welded pan. The risk of adhesion just isn't worth it. If you must, powdercoat the entire piece but again what would it ad??
The inside of an engine will rust like crazy after you glass bead. But it's like an old cast-iron skillet, as in after you season it the hot oil closes up the pores in the metal. Long and the short is we hate to glass bead if can help it. If you just use the engine and get out for some good cruzin time it should be seasoned and not cause issues >>>>.
Glyptol works because of mechanical grip onto rough cast surfaces like blocks or the underside of an intake manifold. Risk to reward ratio just isn't right for sheetmetal components.
The Nay's have it. The ones I have seen (don't remember where) were a dark red orange color. I will go bare. Thanks for the input.
if you want the best ...jet hot coat it inside. the oil won't stick to it and will lube the engine instead. cadillac dave
If you paint it you are looking for trouble soon. Get some magnets and put them in there is a better idea. When you remove the pan and they look like little hedgehogs you know why. They catched everything that is not flowing arround in your motor now. my ct2 Frank
I paint the inside of the block, pan, everything No spray paint just brushed Rusto rusty metal primer But after 1000's of engines and 45 years of building race cars what the f'doIknow........ Castings never stop sheading crap. Windage is helped. By the way sealing the inside parts insures that more junk comes out with each oil change. And change the oil when it's warm. AND REMEMBER BRUSH ON! The sprap paint is a different formula!!! Sorry Guys your wrong I have NEVER had this stuff come off. I build Gasoline motors I might bet that fuel motors are a whole nuther story. I tried Glyptol .... didn't work any better and just cost more money.
The Jalopy Journal
