dual master cylinder, clutch/brake

Just came back from my local "pull-n-save" and while there I found a hydraulic master cylinder that has a brake, and a clutch resevoir built into one unit! I also got the slave unit for the clutch arm, but it was mounted on the passenger side of the tranny. Anyway, does anyone know much about these? the truck was a '63 chevy, 6 cylinder, 3 speed. I called my NAPA store here to see if they have access to a rebuild kit, and the "snot nose" said :..." uhh, I don't think you can have a dual M/C, cause my book doesn't show it!" Well I have it and I have seen them in the past, but didn't know where they were from and now I have one for my '30 chev!!! woo hoo I like it!!!

 

Its what I have in my 32 and my so has in his 34. Good set up . I need another bellhousing.

 

I have one of those got it from ShaneT and Napa carries all the parts for them go to napa online.
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remember if you mount it on the fire wall you will have to switch the guts around

 

Napa told us the same thing when I needed one at Mocan but we found one at O'Reilys .

 

No hijack intended ,but which bellhousing is necessary for the clutch cylinder?
on SBC

 

yup, that's the stuff

now get yerself an Ansen swing set like so

 

No offe4nse to your NAPA guy, but he's clueless!!!

That is an EXTREMELY popular hot rod master cylinder. It is ALSO a killer set up if you want to build a BALANCE BAR brake system. Balance Bars are superior setups compared to most any inline master. The killer thing is that you can build one budget cheap with one of these units! I put one in my coupe and it flat out stops any car I have - even with skinnies on the front!

There are still plenty of aftermarket pedal assemblies for these kicking around at swap meets. So setting them up for clutch/brake or even brake/brake is not hard to do - no expensive machine work required.


I have SEVERAL of these "on the shelf" because when I see them at a meet for 10 or 15 bucks I just grab them. Note - these come in a VARIETY of bores sizes - moreso when rebuilt - food for thought.

 

oh, got it!!... I understand, now, THANKS!!!

 

Bittersweet??!! - Don't be - it's STILL a cool find that will work well, but just to be devils advocate - the BAD thing with those (when used as clutch/brake units) is that they are SINGLE piston brake cylinders - not exactly state of the art - safetywise if you know what I mean. I know how COOL it is to LOOK "right" so I will offer this thought - use that UNDER the floor as a BRAKE/BRAKE cylinder - balance bar or otherwise THEN get an old single reservior master cylinder and mount it to your firewall and use it as your clutch pedal master - it will look totally period and have a better functioning brake set up and have a EXTRA factor of safety WITHOUT sacrificing any COOL POINTS.

Just thinking out loud.....

 

yeah that safety thing always rears it's ugly head when "trying" to be kool! The M/C is actually gonna be for my '30 chev which has NO brakes right now, I just came across this while looking for the parts for my '49! I think I will use it as a "dual" brake set up, for safety, and stick with the mech. clutch???? But then again maybe not! I just don't know?!?!?

 

These also can be found in early '60's International trucks as well...

Brian

 

i just had to rebuild my same unit... they found mine by looking up a '71 chevy master cylinder. The part number for the full unit from NAPA is #34404. They should be able to find the rebuild kits from there. Mine is a 1 1/8" bore.

If not able to rebuild or find parts or if it needs sleeving, be sure to check out Sierra Specialty Automotive. GREAT hydraulic rebuilder for very reasonable prices.

 

Explain the balance bar brake system a little more.

-Brad

 

is this going to be single brake line front and rear too?

 

Here at my NAPA we have a computer program that allows me to look up a part and list all the vehicles it fits. Works great for guys with disc brake conversions, match the pads and go from there for the other parts. That master set up was O.E. on 60 to 63 Chevy pick ups and vans. Half ton all the way to 1 ton. The interchange is also great for checking out the wrecking yards. It saves some walking. If you can't get that snot nosed kid to help using this program pm me and I will dig on it. Hope this helps.

 

Wow glad i checked this thread. bookmarked into my "stuff I need for the build" folder.

 

If you use a balance bar on the brake pedal it makes this a dual master cylinder instead of clutch and brake. The balance bar has two plungers that are adjustable for setting up brake pressure to the front and back wheels.

 

I used a bell out of mid 80's chevy 2wd pickup. Will hold up to a 12" clutch too.

 

HemiRambler, I like this idea.

use that UNDER the floor as a BRAKE/BRAKE cylinder - balance bar or otherwise THEN get an old single reservior master cylinder and mount it to your firewall and use it as your clutch pedal master - it will look totally period and have a better functioning brake set up and have a EXTRA factor of safety WITHOUT sacrificing any COOL POINTS.

 

Any Chev bell can be used, all ya have to do is fab up a mount for whatever slave cylinder you want to use. With that M/C a 1&1/16 bore salve works well . I used a bell that was made for a cable release, that let me mount the slave off the trans where it is hidden.

 

If you use the International master, you don't have to swap the innards. The Chevy criss/crossed the brake/clutch, International was a straight shot.

 

hmmm....i like this. i think this could solve my problem

 

Cool...that's what I figured was meant by "balance bar."
Now, here's my question: I'm figuring the bar has the brake pedal attached to it, and a pair of tabs that hold the rods that go into the two sides of the master cylinder.
The rods have to seat into the back of the pistons in the master cylinder. There is usually about 1/8-inch of play before the rod starts to move the piston.
How do you differentiate the travel between the two rods, to make the front brakes come in before the rears? If you adjust one 1/8-inch, and the other 1/4-inch, isn't the second one going to be sloppy before it engages? They both have their pick-up point on the same spot on the bar. Or are the tabs set so one has a faster ratio than the other, or travels slightly farther in the bore?

-Brad

 

Here is an image of Wilwood's balance bar assembly, here's a link to some pedal tech. http://www.wilwood.com/Products/005-PedalAssemblies/Pages/techtip/pedaltech.asp

You can also find reference from Tilton Engineering http://www.tiltonracing.com/home.shtml , their stuff is really top notch.


Matt

 

Sweet! Thanks. That cleared up something I'd been wondering about for a loooong time.

-Brad