What to do with my junk engine

I was at an auction the other day and you could buy running 350-powered complete vehicles for $350-$750. Some 2000 vans with fairly low miles on them went for $1200. My beater truck was a $500 auction purchase I've put 40,000 miles on with just basic maintenance. If I needed one in a pinch I'd hit a you-pull-it yard and buy a motor for $150. Can't hear it run but you can sure turn it over and take it apart and inspect it - and leave it there if it's crap.


This is what I would do. I would TRY to take it apart and rebuild it myself as several have suggested. Worst case, you part it out anyways down the road. In the meantime, you learn something. What's wrong with that?

 

Rebuild it??

 

hah, yeah? well, i guess im a naysayer then. i think only quitters would stuff a 350 in it. you dont fuckin get it man.... yeah he could just take the easy way out, or he could have an awesome time rebuilding that motor. not to mention getting mad respect from alot of people who dont have THE BALLS to even attempt this IE YOU! you obviously are one of these lazy folks who have no work ethic, and im sure youll try and tell me about how you do and i honestly dont care. but to look down on people FOR EVEN TRYING to do something completely AWESOME, thats pretty lame in my book. ive done this a few times, and there isnt any feeling in the whole world that compares with the first time that engine roars to life after being stuck for so long.

 

Trying is the first step towards failure( Homer Simpson) If it wasmine i would put apontiac mill in it. OldWolf

 

Lots of good/bad advice here, but I think you can sift through it.

I dont' think personally don't think putting a 350 Olds or Chev in it is taking the easy way out since the motor/tranny swap won't be a walk in the park either. I'm assuming you can do most of this yourself.

As far as I'm concerned nostalgia motors and cheap cannot be used in the same sentence. You just don't know what you'll find when you start taking apart a 50 year old motor, especially if its ceased already.

I bought a "recently rebuilt" 401 nailhead with a dynaflow for $800 for my '49 Ford coupe that looked really clean (inside and out), turned over nicely. I got a nailhead to chev 4spd bellhousing and I thought I was off to the races. Well....maybe not.

Turns out there's a stuck valve, take the head off and there was water in one cylinder so its rusted, guy ran straight water in it, so there is a crack in the water jacket, lots of shit in the motor and the frost plugs are rusting right out of the block and I find out they're externally balanced.

So now I'm into a total rebuild:
Rebuild kit $1250
Boil out block, magaflux, have crack welded $400
Clearance issues: custom made mini starter $350, modified Sanderson headers $300 plus mods, $50 alterntor bracket, search for center sump pan and pickup, custom made motor mounts.
Balancing rotating assembly $300
I haven't even got a price for turning the crank, boring......etc etc.

This has set my project back at least 18 months due to cost. Is it worth it...YES, to me. But for the price of this rebuilt 401 I could have been running around by now with a new 302 or 350 crate motor with money to spare. If I ran a good junkyard motor I'd probably be $2500-3000 ahead.

I'd run a motor you can afford and keep the 371 for future consideration as you get time and $$. Just my 0.02.

 

ill tell u what ya do u put it in a box and pay to ship it to me

 

Well i know what I am doing. If I cannot free up this engine by Sunday, I am putting it on the backburner and getting a 307/th350 combo. Formerly used to race in a 69 camaro (the 307 anyways). Enough torque for me to cruise.

 

Some people make fun of 307's but I like them. I've got one out of a '68 GMC pickup in my '38 Ford pickup, plenty of power for a driver. With a T-5 and a 3.44 rear out of a '74 Camaro, it has great acceleration.

 

Hello,
I put a 1970 350 olds with a turbo 400 trans in my 57 88 Take a look, if done correctly,it is a nice combination, Eric [email protected]
http://rocketfest.com/2003_gallery/pages/POL_0031.htm

 

I have no work ethic, good one. I put a 383 Chrysler in my 57 Ford. When was the last time YOU had to fabricate an oil pan to clear frame members? I had the money and the perseverance to engineer out the problems and it has been a reliable driver for a good number of years. But this guy doesn't sound like he has the cash to crack into that Olds. I give RESPECT to people who show up to shows in old cars, regardless of what's in em.

 

johnrockin, Out of all the shitty things I've heard on the HAMB, you sir take the cake.
Some make fun of style, welding skill, tackiness, or lack of safety. You are clearly a dickhead. Give the guy a break. You can always redo something later. He doesn't have the cash and wants to get on the road, no crime. I would keep the 371/ Hydro combo for later. Hiding behind a keyboard doesn't make you a man. Karts? Are you still a pup?

 

I used to have a 350 block that I did squats with and carried up and down my driveway. It was a great workout! Lost it at a friend's farmhouse.

 

MMO alone will not free a badly stuck piston. Use a more aggressive penetrant like PB Blaster, Kroil or Gibbs Brand. I think that they get stronger in that order, also more expensive in that order. I just ordered a less expensive clone of Gibbs as I ran out. I believe it is called SP3 or DP3 or something like that. It has not yet arrived so I can't yet speak for it.

Also, when in a pinch, try products from the Aircraft industry. The Aircraft Spruce catalog should be in your shop. There are many types of specialty wicking and lubricating chemicals for aircraft that can do just about anything - considering the replacement cost of a wing, that makes sense.

In the marine industry they use straight kerosene to free up motors that have been submerged in salt water (for days, not weeks of course). Kero will wick into areas better than MMO.

Also, when you apply heat, heat the block/bore. Heating the piston makes it expand, tightening it. I usually heat the block/bore with a propane or MAPP torch, then apply my penetrant oil. The hot penetrant wicks more easily and it also serves to cool the everything. Since the piston will cool faster than the block, this often gives you the chance to free it up.


Lastly, usually it is the top ring that is stuck the most. It is easier for moisture to get in through an open valve. And the top rings suffer the most during the motors life, so they are more vulnerable anyway. The lower end usually has enough oil film, even after many years. So by all means pull the heads and work from the top.

 

I bet your pomp is huge. Fool.

Nothing like some brainless idiot spouting off at the mouth on the internet about god knows what.

 

Put a good, cheap later model engine and trans in it. Keep the original stuff for later, and don't open the hood. Don't ask, don't tell. Enjoy it before your kids get even MORE expensive.

 

How about the cuffs and bowling shirt?

 

Will work on this Sunday & Monday. I found a beater camaro for 400 that might have an engine/trans combo i can use.

 

Just rebuilt a 283. It ran me $1200.00 that was for a basic rebuild setup and no machine work at all. It added up quickly. A crate long block from summit is $1500.00, do the math. Couple new pistons, rings, oil pump, water pump, gaskets. It adds up real quick. Motor was running when I pulled it. Sounded good too even with two bad valves and a wiped cam. My 2cents

 

Gonna pick up some PB and a propane torch. Also, has anybody ever used this stuf called Freeze Off? Apparently the freeze effect will crack the rust and allow it to penetrate further (from kragens site).

 

Good luck freeing it up. If you go slowly - you might need to extend this over a week or more as the wicking-in process starts very slowly and then occurs more rapidly as you make progress - it WILL work. Always does. If you are careful you will be able to reuse the pistons. It is easy to kill them by hitting too hard after frustration sets in.

You can reuse pistons even if the skirts are loose - the technique is called knurling and this was common back in the days where everything was not automatically replaced. I have knurled many a piston, both with a knurling tool and with a hammer and a punch, then using a wire wheel to size the piston to the bore. Yes blacksmith techniques can work, you don't need a F1 machine shop.

If you do decide to replace it with something else, please do not throw out or destroy your old engine. Someone somewhere needs it; they are not making these anymore. Put it on Craigs List or eBay or whatever; keep the old iron alive.

 

haha, i dont care what you guys think about me. ive freed up motors just like that. ive been talkin to the guy through PMs. i told him to get some PB blaster ect. he also said he wire wheeled the heads and the rust cleaned off, and they werent as bad as the pictures made it look.

i didnt mean to be a dick, im sorry if i offended. i just dont want you guys to talk him into giving up. alot of people just throw in the towel on stuff and push the easy button. come on, lets use some skills, like i said theres nothing like freeing up one of them motors.

 

By the way one other thing: you should feel free to do whatever is right for you. If you rebuild or replace, so what, it is your car and your decision. I can't believe the flaming that has gone on on this thread - and for what? Amazing. Good luck whatever path you decide to take.

 

just for you. my usual attire.

 

I don't know about the Freeze Off stuff. Heat is the best. Get the block/bore as hot as you can with the propane torch. Don't use oxy/acety as you will damage the bores or the pistons. As you heat the penetrating oil will flame up. Don't worry about it. When you get it as hot as you think you can (will take a few minutes as there is a lot of thermal inertia) then applly more penetrating oil, removing the torch. It will flame up. Then as the block cools a bit the oil will just smoke. Add a little more - when the oil stops smoking heavily you are at the point where the liquid will penetrate the best. Now lightly tap. Always use a block of wood like a 2x4 between the hammer and the piston. Don't hit the piston directly with the hammer. Also try to hit around the circumference of the piston rather than in the middle. The piston is stronger at the edges and also the mild rocking helps free it. If you hit the hammer directly in the center of the piston without the 2x4 you will ventilate your piston!

Repeat repeat repeat; it will free up. The first one is the hardest and the next to last one is the easiest. The last one is harder again. Go figure - Murphy's Law. I guess it is because at that point you think you are home free. LOL.

 

Well luckily ,only 3 pistons are f@%!ed

Will begin tomorrow.

 

If you have the freeze plugs out, you might be able to apply the heat thru the freeze plug hole directly onto the side of the bore (inside the waterjacket). This is best. Also, if the crank is out, you can play some of the heat odirectly onto the bore from below. Try everything you can; you will get it.

 

Only thing off are the heads. I can't even remove the crankshaft bolt to get the pulley off to remove the timing cover.

 

even with a breaker bar pulling to the left?? shit if thats the case work the breaker bar back and forth while the cylinders soak.

 

Soak the crankshaft bolt, too. Heat that also. You don't want to break it off, so use heat and penetrant. BTW do not waste your time with WD40; that sttuff is junk for 'heavy duty' situations like the ne you are facing. While you are working on the pistons, soak everything else you can see. Congratulations are in order for getting the heads off OK.

 

I have a 59 olds 394 that I moght be willing to part with for the right price