58 chevy carrier bearing problem

So ive been havin a problem with the Carrier Bearing blowing out. It starts to rattle and knock around when I apply throttle, then it snaps off the stand and becomes useless.
I heard you have to put it in with load on the back wheels, did that and I still
have the same problem. Any ideas what I can do??

 

is the car lowered alot? also, I have seen there is a HD bearing avail.

 

So................. none of this worked?????
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=247443

 

Get The Billet Bearing! I know its not 'traditional'. But it will keep you on the road MUCH longer!

 

take to a driveshaft shop have them install it and balance the shaft is the way i do carrier bearings

 

El Ray 58,I'm looking for dimensions of the hole that the carrier brg fits into. Why? I want to see if I can come up with a way to use later pickup parts to build a driveshaft for a car similar to yours. How tall is the hole, how wide?
Driveshaft balance isn't typically the problem with these shafts. The lollipop stand breaks where the bottom plate attaches to the stamped body. I have welded the edge where the factory had just induction welded the pieces together. I have also cut strips of rubber from bicycle inner tubes and stuffed into the housing to reinforce the rubber. None of these steps matter if the driveshafts are bent or the stub through the bearing is twisted, both common problems.
Twisted stubs are the reason for wanting to go to a larger spline stub and carrier bearing setup. But, because of the floorboard design, you can't use a shaft larger than 2" OD.

 

On mine, I took it to a driveshaft shop and they installed a slip yoke and used the billet carrier bearing. Problem solved.

 

Yeah,

The slip-joint seems to have fixed most of the problem. I decided to go the extra step and fill the carrier with urethane. Pretty sure I got it out of balance doing this.

My plan of attack on this for any X-frames in the future is to get the slip joint done, put the billet/urethane bearing on and have the whole assembly balanced. Then install loosely with the weight on the wheels. Shift through the gears gently so the thing moves where it wants to be. Have a look and makes ure that position will not cause binding and tighten it down.


There's no cheap way round it but if you're a hard-core cheap skate such as I you can get the OG style bearings from a NAPA store. They have some that are fully welded to the mounting plate and the rubber is crimped in better.

 

Those bearings gave very little trouble years ago . Make SURE the shaft did NOT get out of phase when you put it together after replacing that center bearing.

 

Those bearings gave very little trouble when they were made in America and were on sky-jacker cars...

They're nearly useless brand new now (the ones NAPA has are better)

I could pull the rubber center out of the O'reillys stocked bearing by hand. No way that is going to hold up on a modified car on these roads.

 

There is a cheap alternative that I have done on mine as well customers vehicles. Use the factory/aftermarket bearing and rubber that surrounds it and ditch the metal housing outside of that. Use tubing about 6" long that fits snug outside the rubber. Center the bearing at ride height in the tube and make mounts to bolt it solid to the crossmember. The bearing will now have a some front to back movement that will eliminate breaking the bracket. I will see if I can find some pics...