Anyone make a "kit"?....or a crossmember kit? Anyone ever done this swap? I have put Mustang IIs under many cars, but never one of these. Will most likely fab up one of my own. Am not interested in buying a complete kit, but would dam sure consider the crossmember kit with hats. Thanks, Mark
Not much wrong with a '50 Ford suspension - rebuild what you've got - all the parts are available with many upgrades too (lowering, disk brakes, etc)
No big deal if you know how to install the mustang II front end.I had one in a 51 ford using the stock mustang II cross member.It was before everyone was selling cross members and "kits".
I tend to agree with Flat Ernie. What is the swap going to gain for you besides the expense of the work and material? Are you getting more space for an engine? I'm just trying to see the logic in the swap. You're trading original IFS for 70's IFS, but I don't see the value in it.
Well, costly yes, but shoebox steering sucks and the brakes are OK @ best. According to what I have here, there is a 10 lb difference between 50 Ford and 74 Mustang.
Thanks for the ideas and input. But I will NOT use the stock front end as it is...clip it?...........no, I won't do that either..........MustangII too light duty?......maybe......... I suppose there is a way to swap sides and put the steering in the front and use a different steering box or rack.......but I just can't see spending the bucks to up date the 60 year old suspension/brakes/steering...What's one of these things weigh?........3500?............folks, I am not any kind of traditionalist here...just wanting to get the most for the bang.........and yes, I know how to put the II front end in using a stock piece........have done a few over the past 30 years or so............ again, thanks for the advice. Mark
Well, I dont know. In one regard you say how much experience you have, then don't know what the 50 Ford weighs. Id say curb weight is probably the first thing to find out that experience would tell you, in order to make an educated decision on suspension swaps. As for clipping it, there was a thread about using an S10. Seems to fit great and parts are cheap. Let us know which way you choose and how it goes.
Will dam sure let all know what we decide to do.........I have never had any luck with a clip looking right or fitting.........I do have a few years of race car chassis building to my credit and will most likely just look around for a bit and cobble something in there on my own. http://picasaweb.google.com/texoutsider/Awbmarch/photo#5180014864914947746 ..a link to the last finished car to come out of our shop over here in Frisco, Tx. ..about what a 50 weighs?.........I was asking........but will dam sure know in a few minutes...........I am sure that data is somewhere in my flies .......or out here on the net...............or I could just put it on the dam scales. You can betyerass that it won't be that heavy when I get thru. Mark
jamco is comming out with tubular bolt on arms, i am waiting for those for my 51. and then there is supposed to be a volvo steering box bolt on that makes it steer better but i am not that far into mine yet and its only hear say
Have used the Volvo boxes in the past for a few applications...pretty good steering box. Would like to use a power rack on this one...it is for my wife and she is only 100 pounds of pure dynamite. Folks, don't get me wrong here........I am looking for advise from those who have been there and done that with one of these 49/50/51s. I will dam sure consider any good ideas or applications that I have no idea exits. Have been living in my cave for many years.......building these NSS and F/X cars to a totally different set of specs. I have not built a street car for myself since the last 55 Chevy..........not counting that blown 55 of Conway's........ The late Corvette stuff looks good , but I don't want to go that route .......something a bit more economical and user friendly. Mark
I installed a rack on one from a cavalier (I think) - disk brake conversion - rebuilt the rest stock. Worked nice.
The Fatman frame stub is a one day install, and everything bolts back on. For those of you that are worried that a mustang is too light, the ball joints are bigger than Chevelle ball joints, and the wheel bearings are the same ones used on a Torino. For as small a car as a Mustang II was, the front suspension was way overbuilt.
You might be able to find a lot of information at http://www.shoeboxford.com free to register and lots of info on the discussion forum. If you haven't been there already.... dv
I'm with Enjenjo-- The Fatman clip, or a similar one from Street Rod Engineering, would be my choice. I like The SRE stuff, but for the $$ you get more "pretty" from Fatman. I had a '51 with the stock front, and a 283/T350. it was done nicely, before I got it, but was bogus in a couple areas. Lots more room for engine choices with the MII. I did a Fatman clip in a '48 Plymouth coupe a couple years ago- definitely doable in a day. Their clip holds many advantages over any junkyard subframe job, but as far as I'm concerned, the biggest one is-- the MII clip is actually made to fit the car-- nothing from some other donor is. and one other part to add to the "came from a bigger car" list-- The Fatman clips in complete kit form use Chevelle calipers and Granada or Camaro rotors
Put a fatman stub on my shoebox, really straightforward and is visually appealing. Im a fan of the tubular control arms as well. I needed room for engine clearance and the fatman clip is large enough to handle damn near any motor, but definitely more friendly for rear sump oil pans.
We've done several Speedway MII kits (speedwaymotors.com) and they are very good quality for the money. But they don't make a crossmember kit for a post48 Ford so you will have to modify one or use a Heidts crossmember kit. My 50 has an S-10 clip.
Can you tell me more about the S-10 deal.......will one out of a 2 wheel drive little Blazer work?........my welder has one that I can get for dam near nothing. How does it drive? thinking a simple 351 W at about 400 hp and a 5 speed...........something that Pat can feel good in............ Ford power only in this car.......not to say I would not put something else in, just that we race a Ford and on the back of our truck it says........"only little boys wear bowties".............lol but we did find a dam near complete 265 Chevy in the trunk...... M.
82-98 S-10's, S-15's, Jimmy's, trucks, etc. are interchangeable. Some newer ones also work but not exact on years. 50 Ford and S-10 frame rails are almost the exact same width, however the S-10 track width is about 1" or 2" narrower which I like but some dont. Parts such as drop spindles/springs and airide kits are easy to find and cheap. And ya, sorry, mine runs a smallblock Chevy.
mattcrp1, were getting closer with the 49-53 Ford tubular a-arm kit. We are still about 6 weeks out (maybe sooner). Here is a sneek peek at the new kit.
I did a Fatman stub on a 50 Woodie that some butcher had put an S-10 under with a Toyota rack. Didn't turn for crap, bump steered and sat all wrong. (Not knocking S-10 clips this one was just too F'd up). I chopped of the S-10 put on the Fatman/Mustang II put the 350 back in (actually never took it out, jacked it up and built a small cradle to hold it out of the way) and it drives and stop awesome now while having a great stance. It also looks much better under the hood. MII's are definitely strong enough for this application - Ball joint, Bearings, tie rods etc. were as big as LTD's. Just stay away from the origianl 9" brakes! I've seen MII's live many miles under a 460 powered F-100, and thats a ton of weight!
The Jalopy Journal
