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Tech<<< Suicide doors, more fun than a sack full of Breeders!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Da Tinman, Jun 15, 2008.

  1. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Boy I'm not sure I want to type this much,, but here goes.

    I suicided a set of 38 Ford truck this week and here's how I did it!

    The Hinges were purchased from Jmn444 here on the Hamb, heres the link to his add: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254265&highlight=hinges
    Good quality, Great price, Fast shipping! Not much more I can say, Thanks dude! (I feel like I'm giving ebay feedback:D)

    First thing, brace the door post, if it moves around much things are never gonna work right when you are done. I used a chunk of
    1 1/2" x 3" C channel and some leftovers.

    Now you can locate your hinges, this takes some head scratching. The idea here is to get the hingepins as close to square with the ground as possible. The hinges will need to be closer together than the stock hinges were.

    In the pic the duct tape is the stock hinge location, the blue lines are the new hinge locations.

    location.jpg

    With the hinges at the stock locations the centerline is leaning out way to far at the top and the door will drop 5-6" when opened.

    centerline2.jpg

    What I ended up doing was to move the top hinge up 1 1/2" above stock, and the lower hinge is 12" below it.

    centerline1.jpg

    Notice that its not perfectly square, it still leans out a a couple degrees at the top so it will swing down slighlty so they will stay open on their own.


    Now dis-assemble the hinges, notice that the door cups have a long and a short, for this application I needed the long side to the rear.

    hinges.jpg

    Keeping the hinge pins inline with one another is very important to the smooth operation and longevity of the bushings. To get them centered and braced I clamped the bottom to a piece of 3" angle.

    square1.jpg

    Then flip them over and clamp the inside to another piece of angle, this ones a temp, just needed to hold it in place will the hinges are tacked to the bottom brace.

    square2.jpg

    They will stay attached to this piece until after the hinges are fully welded into the door post.

    Once they are tacked to the brace and are one piece, clamp an angle between the pivots and make sure that the hinges operate smoothly, if it binds now its not gonna get any better once they are in the truck!!

    test1.jpg test2.jpg

    I got lucky and got them perfect the first time, both times!

    Now you can cut the upper slot in the door post, you need to get the pins as close to the outside of the body as you can, so you will be cutting away most of the post.

    firstcut.jpg

    After the top cut slide the hinges in and make sure that the bottom lines line up with the hinges, and then hack it out!

    secondcut.jpg

    Slide the hinges back in, now you can square them up with the doorpost. Try to get the pins as close to the door (front to back) as possible and square with the door frame. (this can also effect how the door swings.) On this one the hinges were "proud" off the doorpost.

    proud.jpg

    The nice thing about bracing the hinges the way I did is that when I set one square the other was firmly attached, made it much easier!

    Okay, now tack the hinges in place in several spots, grind/cut off the excess. Clamp the angle back on the pivots and double check the action, ( I left it on till all the welding was done, checking it frequently)

    flush.jpg

    Now that hinges are all welded up, I filled the hole in the lower window/door brace.
    hole.jpg nohole.jpg

    After that I put in a piece of 1" .125 wall box that is welded to the floor, both hinges and the window/door brace. it will continue all the way to the top brace after the chop is finished.

    The door post in now finished, time for part 2, the doors.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Okay now for the doors!

    Put the door cups back on the hinges and set them to the center of the adjustments, and hang the door over the hole. I used a small ratchet strap to hold in in place.

    door1.jpg

    It wont go all the way in (hits the hinges), make sure that you have it centered in the hole and make sure that the bodylines are square.

    door2.jpg

    Mark around the hinge cups and remove door, cut just inside your lines and dont cut to deep, need to sneak up on this. It takes a couple cuts but its easier to weld if it fits tight!

    doorcut.jpg

    What you are looking for here is to get the hinges just inside the skin of the door so the door panel needs no notches. You also need to watch to make sure that the hinges are not so deep that the foul the window tracks

    windowtrack.jpg

    I ended up a bit deep and at the wrong angle so I cheated! I cut the pivot bar on the back side and bent it just enough to get the hinge flush. If you are not that confident in your welds I would recommend getting the adjustable hinges, they eliminate this step.

    bent.jpg windowtrack2.jpg

    When you are happy with the fit and function, reinstall the door and get it centered in the opening in every direction and tack weld it shut.

    tackedshut.jpg

    Inside we are now ready to weld

    readytoweld.jpg

    Again I tacked it in a few spots and ground it flush, then finished the weld. The bottom front corner hit a bead under the door panel so I welded everything else first then put a dolly under it and folded it over.

    Remove the door, cut the welds and all that, the top hinge is now bullet proof, but the bottom hinge is not even BB proof and needs some bracing. To tie the hinges together I bent up this 14 guage V that welded in solid.

    doorbrace1.jpg doorbracewelded.jpg

    that helped the lower hinge a bunch but it still flexed a bit more than I liked, so I added abolt in brace. If it was welded in the window regulator and such wont go in, so I made a 14 guage angle that matches the backside of the top brace and screwed it in place.

    bottombrace.jpg bottombraceinside.jpg

    Congrats, your are now ready rehang the doors, adjust and swing away!! should end up looking something like this!

    [​IMG]
     
  3. HOT ROD DAVE
    Joined: Jan 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,467

    HOT ROD DAVE
    Member

    very nice job, to bad you wernt closer as i would have you help me on my shoebox
     
  4. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    wow bro... this is some bitchin tech. imma keep this one in my folder
     

  5. jbon64
    Joined: Jul 26, 2006
    Posts: 511

    jbon64
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    cool tinman, i gotta check out your shop sometime
     
  6. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Very cool.... Are those spindles upside down?
     
  7. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Thanks Guys it was a lot of work,, but it was worth it!

    Spindles upside down????
    [​IMG]
     
  8. chaddilac
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,021

    chaddilac
    Member

    Maybe it was just the way the front wheels look like they have positive camber? Ease up on me, it's early and there's no coffee in the house! hahaha
     
  9. Looks good J! I also dig the firewall work. Gives me ideas for the Tudor. May even enlist your services.
     
  10. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member


    Without the brake drums and backing plates on it the lugs dont bottom out so the wheels lean a bit, but not a problem.

    Be glad to help Tman!
     
  11. captainjunk#2
    Joined: Mar 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,420

    captainjunk#2
    Member

    great photos an help , truck looks pretty cool
     
  12. dvmnorthwest
    Joined: Jun 3, 2008
    Posts: 31

    dvmnorthwest
    Member

    Great tech. I've got a 38 that I will be doing this to later this summer, thanks.

    I really like what you did with the firewall. It cleaned it up nice. Did you fab it up from scratch or did you buy it as a kit? I'm not trying to insult you at all, but I am hoping that you bought it somewhere because my fab skills are not that great and that thing is bitchin.

    Anyway, thanks again for the tech.
     
  13. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Dude, no insult taken, but they call me "Da Tinman" for a reason. I fabbed it up using a radius break, beadroller and an argon bottle.
     
  14. dvmnorthwest
    Joined: Jun 3, 2008
    Posts: 31

    dvmnorthwest
    Member

    Thanks for the response. You really are "Da Tinman." That is really nice work.
     
  15. DUDE!!!! Damn it J This is F'n killer tech. I wanna get some and suicide the A for sure now!!! Damn You should offer HAMB classes :) I'll be the first to sign up....I think the A might be a little easier than that truck.:) . It was something my dad and I wanted to do with our A since day one, but never got around to it. Thanks for the tech. Straight forward and easy to understand. That V came out nice too.

    Will
     
  16. sweet! subscibed for future use..
     
  17. ...doc...
    Joined: Feb 18, 2007
    Posts: 755

    ...doc...
    Member
    from Houston

    looks good, great info there.
     
  18. jmn444
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 410

    jmn444
    Member

    Great tech! I'm going to offer free shipping on the hinges thru end of July '08 just to readers of this thread... cont. usa only though.... can't wait to see it all done!
     
  19. G V Gordon
    Joined: Oct 29, 2002
    Posts: 5,713

    G V Gordon
    Member
    from Enid OK

    Wow, I guess that shows that Vagabonds aren't just witty, sexy, and handsome. Some of us got skills as well!

    Nice job Jay.
     
  20. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member


    That one of those pick any 2 questions?

    Thanks for the compliments fellas, and I really hope this helps some of you in the future!

    Stay tuned, latches and strikers in a week or 2
     
  21. Ryan
    Joined: Jan 2, 1995
    Posts: 21,666

    Ryan
    ADMINISTRATOR
    Staff Member

    great post!
     
  22. BinderRod
    Joined: Jul 9, 2006
    Posts: 1,737

    BinderRod
    Member

    I guess that you 2 are the exception about the witt and charm. lol:rolleyes:
     
  23. sweet looking setup jay


    johnny
     
  24. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    they cant all be pretty like me keith :p
     
  25. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member


    Ummmm fiddy,, I dont think I'm letting the cat out of the bag when I say this but your not that pretty!:D

    Although you are a pretty strange,, is that what you meant??
     
  26. breeder
    Joined: Jul 13, 2005
    Posts: 10,948

    breeder
    Member Emeritus

    more fun than a sack full of Breeders!

    well, i guess that is better then "more fun then breeders full sack"

    nice tech jay! i havea really cool clock ill trade ya for some fab work on the 53! ;)
     
  27. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Cool clock?? Why would i want it back? Hell it took me 3 months to get rid of it!

    Be glad to help you with the 53 though, but do you have enough water wings to get it here?
     
  28. Da Tinman
    Joined: Dec 29, 2005
    Posts: 4,222

    Da Tinman
    Member

    Just a quick update,, both doors are finished, and I will be doing the latch striker tech in a few days, but here's the results!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHyo0YDb4NI

    Tried to embed it but I guess I'm not smart enough!:rolleyes:</EMBED>
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2008
  29. jmn444
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 410

    jmn444
    Member

    a few more days for the free shipping...
     
  30. this is a great tech article, I am just getting ready to suicide the doors on my 53 dodge truck, this will be invaluable. awesome thread. Bud
     

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