~~~Hauled home a 41 ford And already hate fords more~~~

if you hate it now, you'll wish it was gone later... id take desertratrodder's offer. ive heard of him before from various LA folk... he deals fairly.

 

MR48Chev :: WRONG !! pre 48 Fords are 6 volt and DO have ballast resisters.

 

sorry he cant offer me what i want for it so i'll just keep it! i traded a truck for the car so i havent really put any money into it other than the 585 for whiteewalls from coker, and all the little shit i put on the motor, thanks for the help guys i have a little more motivation to go work on it now! and what the hell is a ballast resistor??

 

Look under the hood of and 70's Mopar ,,that white ceramic thing on the firewall ,,thats a ballast Resister

http://realbig.com/detomaso/1999-10/1008.html

 

I thought you kney about motors, whats a Ballast Resitor? Sheesh, some guys dont deserve a FORD!!

 

Old chevies used a resistor wire instead of an external resistor.

 

the extra gas washed down the cyls.oil each up thru spark plugs and tow to start.(the old flattys run really quiet;check the fan ;maybe it`s running now)

 

OOOOOH the joys of a flathead - go ahead & get it running real good & you will have ALOT of FUN driving it all over the place ""if you hire a flathead mechanic to follow you around in a utility truck full of parts & tools!!""

if you lived farther up north where it 'freezes' in the winters you could fill it with water & leave outside & let it split wide open thatll cure a flathead ford V8!

flatheads are goooood lookin engines & my hat goes off to owners that drive them but they arent for me!

 

ITS FROM WISC.
MAYBE CHEESE A CLOGGED TAIL PIPE..
being from packer country ... maybe a choke problem..

yellow spark or blue (can't hold the plug to ground with your hand ass kickin )spark

 

not much the piece of shit doesnt even run! LOL

 

I thought you said you knew motors and was a chevy guy...

Rod

Sorry Doc, didn't see your post!

 

Hate Fords? The instant gratification society has struck our hobby?
Yea go the easy route and install a belly button 350. It'll stick out in the sea of conformity. If you have enough spark and fuel, the only thing left is the timing.

 

I see too many nonsense posts and too many that are thrown out without reading the whole thread.

zeitlerusmc said:

spark to plug when plug laid on head and engine cranked over. That would eliminate the ignition system as a major problem.

Engine has fuel making it's way to the carb, that should take care of issue number two. Fuel.

We will assume that air is going into the top of the carb when the engine cranks over. that should take care of number three.

Low compression My 1946 Motor manual says that a 1941 Ford V8 should have between 113 and 116 lbs of compression depending on if it is a 11A or 19A with that I would say that the 30 lbs isn't enough to make it pop.
Side note : to do a compression test correctly one has to pull all of the plugs and have the throttle wide open to allow max air in.

As I and Chris suggested squirt some oil in and try it. And as he suggested you may have to pull it to start it the first time as some of those engines take a bit of convincing until they start once. That 6v starter doesn't spin it very fast but plenty fast enough if everything is right.

 

Sorry if this is obvious, but have you checked it with a timing light?

 

I wasnt going to be as blunt as some. Sometimes whe I get frustrated I get alittle ahead of myself, and careless in my thinking, kinda like when I look for something I laid down and "I KNOW IT ISN'T THERE, CAUSE i LOOKED" However, I'm not going to make a career out of second guessing and interpreting how a person thinks about stuff. Thats why I offered the basics, and still do. Cover your basics and then move on. I can get shocked even if its out of time and plugged in the wrong order, and thats even with out without a 6v to 4v ballast resister hiding behind the dash board.

I would be interested to know what the compression in in all cylinders and if there is a can of wd40 handy to quirt not only into the cylinder, but down its throat while cranking?

 

Timing!

 

Still have an exhaust? Make sure its not packed full of squirrel or mouse nests.

 

thanks to all who are actually giving me some good advise, to all you other jack off's saying smart ass or dumb shit, you all suck balls! as far as the ford goes the flattie is staying in it, and im going to check the compression one more time with a new testor, and try pull starting it to see if that will work, after i do the brakes!!!I'LL TELL YOU ONE THING FOR SURE THIS FORUM IS SPLIT RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE AS FAR AS PEOPLE GO HALF SMART WHO KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT, AND THE OTHER A BUNCH OF CUMDUMPSTERS!

 

hmmm
my thoughts of potential problems laced with humor
(i thought so any way)
plugged exhaust system
stuck choke /vacuum leaks
weak 6 volt spark vs high tension coil produced
might have clicked in your brain some more items to check ....
but if serious answers is all ya want ...

good luck with internet trouble shooting

 

Shouldn't ya have 4 volts not cranking and 6 volts cranking??? Or is the voltage dropping too far. Maybe you need a good'er battery or starter. I dunno....whats a flathead????

 

Ya gotta have more patience with the car than you do with the forum.

 

With the ballast resister there should be 6 volts to the coil while cranking on the starter but when it is running it drops to 4 volts. The ignition while cranking should bypass the ballast. At least that is how it works on a Dodge only it is 12 and 8 volts respectively. On Satan Herself's drawing the 6 volts should go to the ballast and there should be a switched connection going from the battery to the coil that is open when the car is running. It won't hurt to run it with 6 volts on the coil for a short amount of time. This is how I always checked my Dad's dodge. It was quicker than getting out the meter.

Da Scrump

 

I should also mention that if it fires while cranking but dies the minute you stop cranking then it is the ballast that is bad.

 

Noticed in the picture of your car that it looks like its painted Ford "blue". If it's a true blue Ford, then it's quite normal that it won't start. Don't worry about trying to start it on its own, it will have to be pushed or towed like someone else mentioned. I suggest a One Way Tow.......
Sorry Ford Guys....just couldn't resist

 

Help me now dammit and don't insult my intelligence because I know everything...... I think I've run into you before. Dave is that you?
Feh.

 

Get a sbc.... fords seem to complicated....

 

IN NO WAY DID I SAY I KNOW EVERYTHING! BECAUSE I'LL BE THE FIRST ONE TO ADMITT I DON'T~! I WAS TRYING TO GET ESTABLISH WHAT I HAVE ALREADY CHECKED OR ELIMINATED!

 

i used to own that car... had it for 9 years and sold it as a non-runner on e-bay in 2002! bought it from Relic Stew's father! it was his ice fishing car in the '60's, and had not run since the '70's. there is a 6 x 8 hole in the passenger front floor board to drop a line thru!

don't give up on the flattie. Relic Stew and i determined it to be a rebuild with relatively few miles on it.

 

Calm down now, alot of people will makes jokes here cuz we have a sense of humor. If you don't then go back to killbillet.

 

You must not have looked at his other pix. It's now "dare to be different" flat black with red wheels.
I say sell it and get an 82 Camaro.