I know this isn't the right way... but does anybody see a big problem with using spray can primer then spray can paint to seal up the metal patch panels I'm putting on my wagon for the time being, I have alot more cutting and welding to do before I start the bodywork and don't want them to get surface rust, and when I'm ready strip it off and epoxy it all ; ( epoxy $= a few more patch panels right now!) thanks all
There is higher quality aerosol primers/sealers out there that would probably protect it until you were able to do it right. There's epoxy primer in can's that we have used on chassis parts that's worked well, and seal's it against the elements.. I can't think of the name of it right now though, i'd have to get to my buddy's shop and check it later. Maybe a call to your local paint supply shop can get you what you looking for.. I just wouldn't use the over the counter Plasti-kote/ Krylon stuff. It's NOT that they are a bad product, i just don't know if they will protect it for any length of time without absorbing moisture...then again, if your only talking a very short time before it's removed it might not make a difference as long as it's covered with something.
Well technically any primer/sealer won't seal out moisture entirely. Don't get me wrong, they will help especially if its indoors. I leave projects in epoxy primer in my shop for extended lengths of time and dont have a problem. However if you're planning on driving the thing and really exposing it, then you are on the right track. It wont hurt anything as long as you use decent quality stuff. Remember, unless you are planning on sanding all the tempoary stuff off before you do it right, it will still be underneath your paint job and be your weakest link. Good luck.
go for a non sanding type of primer. ive been in the same boat before and used some anti rust primer or some crap by one of the touch up paint companies. it help up pretty damn good for rattle can primer.
SEM sells autobody quality primers about twice the price of autoprts store stuff but quite a bit better its available at autopaint suppliers
^ I was going to recommend SEM. Its about $8-10 a can depending, but its a slightly larger can too. Buy a couple if you're just sealing patch panels. It will get you by for a while.
If its going to be some time before you "Do it up right",I would suggest good old Rustoleum primers AND paints. Go over the primer with paint to topcoat seal it against moisture. Do both sides of your repair this way if you can. Also, Permatex makes a rust nuetralizer in spray cans that I have used over bare metal first,then primed and painted. The repairs I did this way have lasted for 6 years and still look as fresh as when I did them.
Not in a million years if he ever wants it to see real paint. An oil-based enamel? No thanks, not under $1K worth of paint materials. Good luck taking that stuff off too.
GIBBS........ Go to Roadsters.com and learn about it. Better to be informed than just throw out an opinion that won't hold water (no pun intended) Frank
So you think that with your prepsol and a rag, you'll be able to get all the oil off the substrate and from around it and not have any residue left over when its time for paint. Having any oil whatsoever in the atmosphere while painting will almost guarantee fisheyes. You're that perfect? You do it your way and I'll do it the right way, but lets try not to misinform too many people. And right from Roadsters.com about Gibbs: Gibbs penetrates right into the pores of the metal. So I guess it is a sponge after all. If you can scrub all the Gibbs out of the pores of the metal before you paint, I've got some cars you can detail.
I sprayed my frame with "panel prep" - basically phosphoric acid. It hasn't rusted a bit in almost a 18 months. So, I sprayed my doors with it too after sandblast. It says you can paint right over it with a little prep.
You got it right.....period. Some primer & paint (temporary) over welded in METAL. You'll clean it up and Bondo it later. Brush something on it if its cheaper....giv er'
Damn...and here I've been using epoxy from start to finish even if it meant skipping a few meals to save $$
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